First ride today! Yeehoo!

[MikeScoot]

 Took Maxini for a few very short testing rides today - around the yard and up and down the street a few times.

 I'm as happy as Larry because everything works and there were no road issues at all.

 Before I could get things rolling I had to free the clutch plates as the bike seems to have last been used back in 2001. I simply rocked the bike back and forth in 1st gear with the clutch held in until it became free. That was a major relief. Once that was done and I had  tested how said clutch was behaving with the engine running, I gently set-off on a very careful ride around the back yard. After adjusting the clutch and rear brake I ventured out onto the tar. Both brakes worked adequately, and the engine pulled just as well as I remember it pulling the last time I rode an XZ back in the eighties. The low-down torque of these things is excellent!

 Once back up on the workbench I checked for coolant leaks or oil leaks. There were none at all! Amazing! There was, however, a tiny amount of fuel seeping from one of the petcock (fuel tap) mounting screws. I tried to get new fible washers but could only get them in a lot of fifty, so I opted for gasket paper. That is (hopefully) sorted now but I'll have to wait a while while the Loctite I coated the gasket paper with cures.

All said and done I'm pretty happy - as Larry (whoever he was) must have been for whatever he did.

 Cheers,
  Mike

[Walt_M.]

Congratulations and well done. But, I haven't seen this mentioned lately so have you checked the bolts in your rear brake stay arm. They are often neglected and a failure can sure mess up your day.

[fret not]

I remember all the turmoil about the brake stay bolts, ans it IS important that they function properly.  To that end I think the main reason some of those bolts have failed is improper installation.  The bolts are "shouldered" with a smaller threaded section for the nut.  The main function of the bolts is to act as a pin holding two parts together.  The shoulder section fits through the mount on the swing arm AND the hole in the brake stay rod.  The nut just keeps things in place, but the shouldered section of the bolts is what takes the load, that's why it is so big in diameter.  It is all too easy if you don't look closely to get the bolt part way through , enough to start the nut on but the bolt not all the way seated in place.  This would allow the threaded section to bear much of the load which that part is not intended to bear.  And by tightening the nut the threaded section becomes over stressed and can bend/break.  It is very important to visually check that the shouldered section goes all the way through both the end of the brake stay rod and the mounting bracket on the swing arm before the nut is tightened.   The nut is designed tighten against the shoulder of the bolt NOT against the stay or swing arm. 
For the connection to the backing plate the bolt goes through from the back side so the head of the bolt fits into a recess just the right size to keep it from turning, and the threaded portion AND the shoulder fit through the brake stay arm, then the washer and the nut go on.  Again, the nut tightens against the shoulder NOT the backing plate.  When everything is tight this system allows some free movement at both ends of the brake stay rod.

I know about this stuff because many years ago I broke a brake bolt like these when I started the nut on and wrenched the nut down tight only to spin the threaded section off with the nut.  It wasn't through all the way, and because the bolt was not properly aligned for the intended force it got uneven stress and came apart.  It isn't rocket science but it IS important to understand how it works.

[MikeScoot]

 Mine are correctly mounted and both ends have new split-pins to keep them that way, but I'll keep an eye on things down there.
  Cheers

[injuhneer]

Speaking of first rides...

I got mine running. Carbs and electrics all sorted. I have not ridden a Vision before now and had no idea what to expect.

What has been the experience of others? I find the low-end pulls nicely and the engine is smooth until I approach highways speeds (~55mph/~88kmh) the engine vibration increases noticeably.

I expect some increase in vibration but this seems more than expected especially given the "sport touring" reputation of these bikes back in the day. I can't imagine riding from here to Tucson at highway (75mph/120kmh) speed for 70 miles. I think my bones would disintegrate.

[jefferson]

My bet is the vibration is coming from the frame rail that bolts on. Yamaha used 6mm bolts and an 8mm will pass through the hole in the bolt on frame piece. I used some 12 point bolts with the washer incorporated into the head from Coast Fabrication. I had to tap the welded on nuts to the U.S. spec and now that frame piece might as well be welded on. Got rid of all the annoying vibration and handles much better also. I even did the through bolts and mounts. I'm sure it all helped, but the biggest part was the frame rail.

[MikeScoot]

Please keep us informed, Mike. In addition to Jefferson's suspicion, it might also be an issue, or even absence, of the plate that connects the front of the rear head to the frame. I know I almost overlooked tightening mine properly after swapping engines.

[injuhneer]

Thanks gents. I will have a look at both.

I remember reading comments on the frame section in another thread. An M6 isn't enough if the flanges are not pinned/indexed to the frame. It would make an easy point to introduce flexure.

[jefferson]

Any update on the vibration issue?

[injuhneer]

Any update on the vibration issue?

Yes. I had an opportunity to ride the Vision for more than a few blocks. I noted when the vibration occurred then set out to do something I was shown long ago.

Park the bike on the center stand. Loose slightly every major fastener in the suspension and frame. Roll off the center stand to allow all static stress to settle everything. Tie off the bike to keep it upright then torque things up starting at the bottom.

Take it for a ride and all the vibration (except for the engine) was gone. Even the engine seemed less buzzy. This in turn leads me back to wondering if there are some gears from other Yams of the era that might provide a taller 4th/5th without changing the 1,2,3. After a good warm-up I did have opportunity to WOT through 1-2-3. Nice pull for a 550. I'd like a taller 4th and a taller 5th.

Sorry for the digression.

[fret not]

A bigger rear wheel would help.  Seems to me there used to be a model with a 19" rear wheel.

[MikeScoot]

Any update on the vibration issue?

Park the bike on the center stand. Loose slightly every major fastener in the suspension and frame. Roll off the center stand to allow all static stress to settle everything. Tie off the bike to keep it upright then torque things up starting at the bottom.

Excellent and very sensible thing to do. Thanks for sharing the tip. That's a real gem!