Out of Gas with a full tank

[WGuaire]

95 degrees today. I replaced the thermo switch. My last ride got way too hot. I tested the thermo switch and it was dead. I put the seat and tank back on.  On a test ride the temp got higher in the green, but not out of control. Things were finally normal. Then the engine bucked like it was cutting out. Then it died. No restart. I parked. I had filled the fuel tank before I left.

After awhile I checked the pet cock. The battery and the starter worked. Sounded good, but no fire. The black fuel tank felt hot. I opened the gas cap to make sure it wasn't vacuum locking.
  Any ideas what to check?
I'll take a UHaul trailer and pick it up in an hour and back to the garage.
I am befuddled. I'm hoping to get unfuddled!

[jefferson]

First off check to see if you have spark. Stick an old plug in the cap and ground it and then while you are cranking the engine check to see if you have a nice blue spark at the plug. Of course the old plug needs to be one that isn't faulty.

[WGuaire]

Jefferson - I'll do that.
  I remember months ago, I had a short cut out on the highway. The motor quickly recovered. After that I checked the battery ground terminal. I didn't see anything wrong. I cleaned the ground connection to the motor.

This time it didn't recover at all. It cranks. All electrics are working. Mrs G had to pick me up and I left the bike on the street. I came back and got it with a UHaul trailer.
  Today I'll buy spare plugs from my local dealership.
I wish this Vision would tell me where it hurts!!!!

[WGuaire]

This morning I turned on the key and nothing happened when I hit the starter.
  Several months ago the starter wouldn't crank at all. I had a pro tech look at it. He replaced the starter relay.
Another problem....

[jefferson]

Make sure you haven't hit the kill switch on the rt handlebar. Then you might jump the starter straight off the battery and see if it cranks. Check your battery voltage. It could have dropped low enough that it caused the stoppage and then the no fire at home.

[WGuaire]

Yes.. I toggled the kill switch. I charged the battery. Still no go.
I'll try tomorrow.

[Inheritance]

Failing stator? I had an electrical cut-out before (which you mention) and managed a pop start but it never again fired up on its own until new stator went in. You mention heat and thermostat problems -- that's been an issue with mine and killed two stators because of it. If you're seeing spark off the plugs (can't tell if you tested this yet) then I guess you can rule this and TCI out.

Looking forward to the solution. I'm sure my day in this exact situation will come...

[fret not]

A couple things to check out first because they are easy: side stand switch, and clutch switch.  These are safety 'cut off' features that can be problematic.  The side stand switch can get loaded with grease and dirt because it is in a low position where it can accumulate oil/grease/dirt , and as the oil/grease 'dries' it gets stiffer, sometimes preventing the moving parts from moving.  The clutch switch is exposed to the elements up there on the handlebars, so time and the elements can take a toll on it eventually.  Make sure to check the connections  of these switches to the wiring harness too.  Volt/ohm meters are handy tools.
Another possibility is ignition coil failure.  This is sometimes intermittent, as a break in a wire in a coil can make contact but when the coil warms up from use the wires expand and the break is opened to make a gap.  This requires replacement of the offending ignition coil.  Happy hunting and good luck.

[WGuaire]

A couple things to check out first because they are easy: side stand switch, and clutch switch.  These are safety 'cut off' features that can be problematic.  The side stand switch can get loaded with grease and dirt because it is in a low position where it can accumulate oil/grease/dirt , and as the oil/grease 'dries' it gets stiffer, sometimes preventing the moving parts from moving.  The clutch switch is exposed to the elements up there on the handlebars, so time and the elements can take a toll on it eventually.  Make sure to check the connections  of these switches to the wiring harness too.  Volt/ohm meters are handy tools.
Another possibility is ignition coil failure.  This is sometimes intermittent, as a break in a wire in a coil can make contact but when the coil warms up from use the wires expand and the break is opened to make a gap.  This requires replacement of the offending ignition coil.  Happy hunting and good luck.

Intermittent? I got it in spades. I'll go after the coils. I've done a lot of electrical work.
  Stator. I put in a new one!
It's gotta be something...Right!???
Thanks for the ideas. Someone's got it right...I hope!!!
  The weather in DC, NO Va is miserably hot. I have a garage but no AC.

[WGuaire]

From Fret Not on another post:

Test them if you have the facility, or have them tested.  If they test "good" when cool but fail in service they need to be replaced.  Ignition coils get warm when in use, and the heat cycling can cause internal coil wire to break and open the circuit.

[WGuaire]

I ordered some used stock coils from eBay that were tested.
   From Partzilla, I ordered the starter relay. From Amazon, I'm getting the starter solenoid.
First, no spark, but I the starter was cranking. Then the starter stopped cranked.
  Half the battle is getting the parts!

[fret not]

Of course you have checked the fuses.

[WGuaire]

Of course you have checked the fuses.

I will do that. I didn't see any problems with the electrics, but you never know! Good idea.

[jefferson]

Did you check the starter by jumping it to see if it is good? The starters full of oil cause more problems than solenoids. Fret not's suggestion on the switchs is a good place to start too. Eliminate those as a source of your problems.

[WGuaire]

Did you check the starter by jumping it to see if it is good? The starters full of oil cause more problems than solenoids. Fret not's suggestion on the switchs is a good place to start too. Eliminate those as a source of your problems.

Yes, the starter jumped on, when it got connected.

I replaced the starter relay with a new one. Tried the switch. No click. No nothing.
The 4 primary fuses are ok.
The run/stop at the handlebar is good. Both wires are neg. then both go positive with the key on.
The old solenoid is 3.2 ohms on my VOmeter. The new unbranded one from Amazon reads 3.6 - 3.8.
Target is 3.5 ohms from the Haynes manual.

I'm still getting zero cranking when I hit the start button. I have no clue what to 'fix'. I can't find anything broken.

[jefferson]

Your switch may not be making contact.

[WGuaire]

Your switch may not be making contact.

I wasn't getting 12v to the solenoid. That may be the issue. I use a Pilot Probe. Both contacts read NEG with the switch on, both went to 12v POS.

[cvincer]

Well, your problem has me beat.  Don't know why it should be relevant to your problem, but for good measure check the fuse inside the headlamp shell.

[jefferson]

I'm not sure where you aren't getting 12 volts from, the battery or the switch. The battery side should have 12 volts on it all the time. The wire coming from the starter switch should have nothing until you press the button, and then 12 volts will be on that wire as well as the wire going to the starter. When you say switch are you talking about the ignition switch or the starter button? That last sentence is very confusing the way it is worded and punctuated.

[WGuaire]

Well, your problem has me beat.  Don't know why it should be relevant to your problem, but for good measure check the fuse inside the headlamp shell.

What does that fuse control?