Author Topic: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please  (Read 339 times)

pinholenz

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Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« on: July 14, 2021, 07:23:53 AM »
I am thinking of replacing my OEM fuse box with a box that takes ATC fuses.

There are two sorts

One is almost a straight replacement where each fuse sits inline with the existing circuits. (Two solder joints for each circuit)

The other has a common bus  power supply to each fuse, then a single solder point to  the demand side of the circuit. A nifty LED comes on to indicate which fuse is the faulty one.

If I use the unit with the common supply unit with the main fuse feed connected to the bus bar and then supply the main circuit via the 30 Amp fuse, is there any problem with me blanking off the supply side to the rest of the fused circuits? I think that the advantage of the  common supply is that it would allow me to use the spare fuses to add another circuit for lighting or GPS.

Does that make sense? Thanks
« Last Edit: July 14, 2021, 07:31:17 AM by pinholenz »
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kevin g

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Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2021, 08:49:27 PM »
I don't quite understand what "blanking off the supply side" means.  Do you mean just leave the unused circuits with nothing on them?  If so, there is no problem if you do not put a fuse in the unused circuit, it will not be energized.

One thing to watch for is the height of the fuse block you use because there is not much clearance under the seat.  I used modular blade fuse holders from Littlefuse but they do not have a common bus.

Another thing, it is far better to use crimp connections than soldering the wires.  The solder wicks a long way up the and then it is not flexible and can break over time.

Prophet Of Doom

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Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2021, 06:20:38 AM »
is there any problem with me blanking off the supply side to the rest of the fused circuits? I think that the advantage of the  common supply is that it would allow me to use the spare fuses to add another circuit for lighting or GPS.

Does that make sense? Thanks

The LED one is quite a nifty unit.  I'd go for that one.

You can have a common supply for the 10A fuses - they are all tied together anyway in the loom, but they are all switched - they are fed from the far side of the ignition switch off the brown wire.  The wires going into the 10A fuses are red, but they ought to be brown to avoid confusion.
The 30 Amp fuse on the other hand comes straight off the battery.  It's unswitched and the far side of that fuse feeds the ignition switch, the fan and parking lights.

If you tie them all together (ie all fuses including 30A off a common live wire) then the ignition switch would be bypassed and the bike would never turn off.  A separate in-line 30A fuse holder between the battery and the ignition switch would do the trick.

R

pinholenz

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Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2021, 07:21:05 AM »
Thanks POD.  I like the LED unit too. Both fuse boxes are less than NZ$25 and available locally

To summarise, you suggest

1. Use an inline 30 amp fuse holder for the Main fuse
2. Bundle all the Red switched wires (that should be brown) and connect them to the common bus
3. Use seperate fuses feeding to out to the Headlight, Signal and Ignition wires

The final choice of fuse box will depend on the seat clearance since I would hope not to relocate the box elsewhere.

POD, I think I saw you write that "crimped joints are the spawn of the devil", but it looks like Kevin G reckons that they are a godsend. Hmm. Decisions, decisions.
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Prophet Of Doom

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Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2021, 08:06:16 AM »
Thanks POD.  I like the LED unit too. Both fuse boxes are less than NZ$25 and available locally

To summarise, you suggest

1. Use an inline 30 amp fuse holder for the Main fuse
2. Bundle all the Red switched wires (that should be brown) and connect them to the common bus
3. Use seperate fuses feeding to out to the Headlight, Signal and Ignition wires

The final choice of fuse box will depend on the seat clearance since I would hope not to relocate the box elsewhere.

POD, I think I saw you write that "crimped joints are the spawn of the devil", but it looks like Kevin G reckons that they are a godsend. Hmm. Decisions, decisions.
That summary is about right if you use the LED unit.  The other unit can be wired just like stock
I did say that about crimps, but it's totally incorrect.  I'd had bad experiences with bad crimps but get a decent ratcheting crimp tool and they are far superior.  Solder will fracture from vibration.

kevin g

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Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2021, 07:54:58 PM »
Yes, crappy crimpers will leave you with a bad taste but the proper crimper results in a gas-tight joint that resists oxidation.  Many years ago I was a NASA certified solderer and we had all kinds of special tools that prevented solder from wicking up the wire and turning it into a solid wire.  Now almost all wiring uses crimp connections.

pinholenz

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Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2021, 08:50:32 PM »
Well, I cant argue with that. Ratcheting Crimping tool IN, Soldering iron, OUT!

Thanks gents.
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pullshocks

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Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2021, 07:14:32 PM »
Very interesting.  I have always been a crimp and  solder kind of guy.  In fact I soldered a connecter this morning  (not for a motorcycle unfortunately).  can anybody show a ratcheting crimper, or link to one on the web?

pinholenz

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Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2021, 07:41:28 PM »
Several types are available with an E-bay search. The only thing to watch for is whether you want to choose one for insulated or non-insulated terminals.

I have gone for an HS30J ratcheted crimper with a jaw that works best for insulated terminals. The terminals I will use have a heat shrink covering that becomes water and dust proof without the phaff of using heat shrink tube. The HS40J model has an extra jaw for a wider range of connectors
« Last Edit: July 30, 2021, 07:27:06 AM by pinholenz »
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pinholenz

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Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Reply #9 on: July 30, 2021, 07:20:15 AM »
Final install of the new fuse box.

The spare terminals aren't live (no fuses yet) and I have yet to put a rubber "cap" over the common connection stud.

Overall I am pleased with POD's choice. The seat closes comfortably over the whole unit and the 30 amp main fuse is in a separate in-line fuse blade container. When I saw the state of the  40 year old fuse terminals up close, I was astounded that the bike was still going.

Its worth noting that the switched feeds don't all sit on just one side of the original fuse box as you might expect. Test them with a multimeter so that all the correct feed wires end up on the common terminal.
« Last Edit: July 30, 2021, 07:28:58 AM by pinholenz »
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Prophet Of Doom

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Re: Replacement Fuse box - Technical help please
« Reply #10 on: July 30, 2021, 08:59:15 AM »
Looks really good.
If you can't find a cap that fits nice and tight, you can use liquid electrical tape.
It won't get vibrated off like a cap might, covers all the edges, and has other uses like coating intake manifolds, battery terminals and stops nuts from undoing. 
It's good stuff - clean with alcohol before applying.


 

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