Another way to cool the stator?

[h2olawyer]

Kiwi -

The stator problems on the XZ550 are legendary.  They fail from overheating.  The oil doesn't cool them sufficiently.  Lucky's oil cooler is probably the best solution to getting longer life from the stator.

The R/R is normally moved to the passenger peg mount by fabricating a "T" bracket.  Others have mounted theirs to the frame under the seat, by the lock mechanism.  At least two uf us have kept the R/R in the stock location & added a 12V CPU fan to keep it cool.  Mine's been installed that way for over a year & so far so good.  Non-waterproof fan & I've even ridden in a few rain / sleet / snow storms with it.  Measured temps in the cooling fins & never exceeded 115F (46C).  That was a day when the ambient temp was about 100F (38C).

Your crimp connectors should be just fine - probably even better than soldering; more vibration resistant.  The extra protection will help too.  I've kept the spade connectors & wrapped the connector in electrical tape.  I disassemble & clean them in the spring when I get the bike ready for the riding season here.  I live in an arid climate so the corrosion found on many motorcycles is not much of a problem for me.

Somebody who has moved their R/R can probably supply some photos if you need them.

H2O

[jasonm.]

Dan, your idea would not allow the oil to even contact the stator. Thus the windings could run hotter. The Vmax and Venture use the oil pumped thru the crank to cool it down. It does work. My venture after 60k, when repairing the starter clutch...the stator looked like new. No dark spots. I am not telling you to drill a hole in your flywheel bolt. But that's what Yamaha did for the BIG Vmax and Ventures. Early Ventures would fry the stator? by 20k. By late '83 they did the hole in the flywheel bolt. That's all it took. Plus a deflector washer to distribute the oil. On my Vision I just changed the thermostat to open @ 160 instead of 180.

[Superfly]

An Example of a relocated R/R.  I hung it from the underseat frame rail bolts.

[Glyn]

JasonM - how do you adapt the thermostat to open earlier?
I think you've said this before but I cannot remember.

[VisionaryDan]

Dan, your idea would not allow the oil to even contact the stator. Thus the windings could run hotter.

Ok this I don't quite understand. I don't see how it would make it run hotter. Maybe not make a difference but hotter?  If you think about how the stator is enclosed from all sides inside the rotor and bolted against the inside of the side cover any venting would have to be a plus.

I can see that there might be problems with balancing the rotor but if anything the holes might help transport the oil to the top of the stator. On both my bikes the stator has melted down in the top half away from the oil.

Anyway this is all theoretical I don't intend to make these mods. Oil cooler is my winter project.

Dan

[Rick G]

I'm going to explain a little thermal dynamics  here,  so you can understand  heat flow.( I'm a retired HVAC tech.) 
Heat travels from a hotter place  to a cooler place, this is how a airconditioner works,   if the oil  is  248 deg. f.  and the stator  is 210.deg.f   the oil will  add heat to the stator  causing premature failure. If the oil is 200.deg.f.  then the heat generated  by the stator  will be carried away , in the oil .

I'm guessing at the stator  temp but I have recorded 248 .8 deg f.  oil temp in my vision.
Most H-D's  run from 215 to 230  oil temp.

[Kiwi_XZ]

Thanks for the replys and picture on R/R relocation.  I can see that any relocation won't look pretty but will be functional.  I've been talking to a friend who raced and has owned bikes for many years, he has restored many early british bikes including an early (1950) Triumph TT (Isle of Man) race bike which lives in his lounge.  This guy also is also an A Grade mechanic so I respect his opinion.  With regard to the stator issues on the XZ550 he has made two suggestions which I think I will follow, firstly run an extra earth from the R/R to the battery, splice into black wire at the connector from the R/R and secondly test and replace the battery regularly.  Sulphated batteries place an enormous strain on the charging system.

Shane

[Lucky]

his suggestions are fine, but trust us when we say 'solder the wires' (along with moving the R/R to a cooler spot)  these parts get expensive the 3rd time you replace them... 

also, don't assume the battery is causing the bike to die, run the fault finding chart.

--Lucky

[Superfly]

Some of us just run an extra ground wire from the wiring harness to the battery Neg.  Definately remove the connectors.

[Kiwi_XZ]

My stator wires are spliced as previously mentioned, has anyone spliced the output wires from the R/R.  My intention is to splice an additional ground wire to the black R/R wire before it enters the first connector.

The 12v CPU fan has some appeal.  Did those who fitted it run it thru a relay, what circuit is it wired into?

I can't recommend the Raychem enviromental splices highly enough, we use these on aircraft all the time, the splice is supproted by a small heatshrink tube after crimping which stops the wires moving.  They are a little pricey but I've never had one fail.

[h2olawyer]

I just wired the CPU fan into the taillight circuit without any relay.  Ran jumpers from a connector in the taillight wires to the cpu fan wires.  It comes on with the key as the lights turn on.  Uses very little juice.  It could be easily wired into the fuse box as well.  I can hear it running before I start the bike if I really listen close.  Its very quiet.  I can also feel the air moving out of the area behind the battery.

Think I'll look around for some of those Raychem splices.  Sounds like they would be excellent for both the bike & the pickup.  Thanks for the tip.

H2O

[supervision]

   I think lowering the oil temp is going to prove to be the stator  fix, that may actually make them last longer.   We have a proven track record of turning them to trash in about 10,000 miles.   My bike also always over charged  (15.6v)  I hooked the sence wire direct to  + post   gave me   14.5 v     I have  been using an absorbed mat  battery  it has made it  3 years so far.     When I was using standard batteries I always slow charged them and tested for full charged condition of all cells with a hydrometer.  That way I was ensuring  the most hope for longjivity, and the less stress on the system....  The batteries usually would fail by opening up (losing connection between cells).   the dry battery has a little more cranking power..  Dave,  supervision

[jasonm.]

The thermostat...if original has a screw in the middle. These are set at the factory to open @ 180. Yes, they actually set them, then crimped the brass. Just take a screwdriver that fits tightly into the screw(remember it's crimped on 2 sides) and turn clockwise till flush. Congradulations- You have lowered the thermostat 15 to 20 degrees.

[Glyn]

Could anyone tell me how to adapt the thermostat to allow the water to flow through the radiator slightly earlier. Do you think this may help bring the oil temp down a little? I mostly ride in stop/start traffic with  lots of clutch work. Think I've just fried my stator too.

Also Stu Moss - person who asked for Weber jetting specs, I can't reply to your mail it keeps bouncing back. Can you provide an alternative mail please. Anyway I used F3 emulsion tubes, 135 main jets, 180 air jets and 50 idles. Think the idles are a tad small since I have to wind the idle screws pretty full out to give a good transition. I'd go for 65's.

[Lucky]

Could anyone tell me how to adapt the thermostat to allow the water to flow through the radiator slightly earlier.

Read Jason's post just below yours, it tells how to lower the thermostat opening temp (i've never tried it) make sure you have a new gasket for the housing.

Thermostat: Stant  part #13758
approx $7.00

will replace the stock thermostat, i'm assuming it's 195 degree thermostat, if so you should be able to find a 180 if they can cross ref it.

Stu hasn't posted to the board in a loooong time..

--Lucky