Author Topic: Dead Dirty Vision (Read 39458 times)

Brian Moffet · « **Reply #100 on:** February 03, 2007, 03:51:43 PM »

Argh, today I went out and carefully checked to see if I could undo all of the screws on the carbs (for the float bowls, etc...) They all came out just fine except one, the one that holds the little air-filter on to the side of the carb. (front carb?) I didn't strip it, but even with repeated Pblaster applications it's refusing to budge.

Grr.

The float bowls look really clean, a little bit of crud in the bottom, but not bad. Sometime soon I'll take a photo. Right now I have to get ready for a memorial service.

Brian

Lucky · « **Reply #101 on:** February 03, 2007, 07:11:21 PM »

Brian, it's not critical to pull that screw...nice, but not critical. the filter comes right out of that bracket. i've found that a good pair of small vice grips (good meaning still having proper serrations on the jaws) are good for cracking those screws free, but that one is in a very tight spot...

--Lucky

Brian Moffet · « **Reply #102 on:** February 03, 2007, 07:50:17 PM »

Yeah, that's what I figured, though that filter does block another screw for a bracket connecting the two carbs. I've made a little bin to catch any parts, same one I used on the front brakes, after cleaning it up. I haven't pulled anything out of the carbs yet, I'm waiting until I get the rebuild kits. It was nice to be able to pull the float chambers tops off and see that they looked really good. I'll see if I can get them as clean as the master cylinder.

Oh yes, what lines do you normally replace? I've got some that refuse to come off and they'll probably need to be cut off. I'm mostly worried about the 'T' line and the very sharp 'S'-curve line. (remember, these are 83 carbs.)

Of course, after I'm finished I should just sell the thing, from that point on it will just decrease in value

Brian

Lucky · « **Reply #103 on:** February 03, 2007, 08:00:18 PM »

the T line should come off fine, if it cracks, i have plenty extras from 82 carbs. the S line reuse if it's not dryrotted. they seem to be in good shape generally, the only part i've seen go bad is the petcock end gets freyed.

--Lucky

supervision · « **Reply #104 on:** February 05, 2007, 07:46:04 AM »

Does anyone know if you can tee the 2 fuel hoses on the 83 carb together and supply fuel from the 82 tank? I've been cleaning up a set and that's what I'm hopeing to do. They are comeing apart fairly good although one of the float pins is very tight, they are pretty clean inside, I was pleasantly suprised. Are the low speed adjuster's hidden behind those plugs with the little holes? What's the easyest way to get kits comming to my house?

Coil Coyle · « **Reply #105 on:** February 05, 2007, 09:57:57 AM »

SV,
One of the hoses is supply from the pump, use that.

The other is a return to the tank because the 83's circulate the fuel to prevent vapor lock. No one has vapor lock problems so it's probably useless under normal riding. It will leak out from the float valve supply tube in the 83 carbs so you have to plug the carbs return with your favorite method.

$0.02

Coil

Brian Moffet · « **Reply #106 on:** February 05, 2007, 01:25:38 PM »

Woo hoo, got my carb rebuild kits.

Brian

Lucky · « **Reply #107 on:** February 05, 2007, 04:52:57 PM »

Quote from: coilXZcoyle on February 05, 2007, 09:57:57 AM

SV,
One of the hoses is supply from the pump, use that.

The other is a return to the tank because the 83's circulate the fuel to prevent vapor lock. No one has vapor lock problems so it's probably useless under normal riding. It will leak out from the float valve supply tube in the 83 carbs so you have to plug the carbs return with your favorite method.

$0.02

Coil

just don't plug up the overflow tubes or you'll be washing your cylinders in gasoline.. btdt

Lucky · « **Reply #108 on:** February 05, 2007, 05:02:04 PM »

quote author=supervision link=topic=4802.msg51156#msg51156 date=1170679564]
Are the low speed adjuster's hidden behind those plugs with the little holes? [/quote]

yup

Tiger · « **Reply #109 on:** February 05, 2007, 05:11:23 PM »

Quote from: supervision on February 05, 2007, 07:46:04 AM

What's the easyest way to get kits comming to my house?

The Sirius ones on eeeee-bay will come right to your front door...good people to deal with, either thro' e-bay or direct...

.......TIGER.......

Brian Moffet · « **Reply #110 on:** February 05, 2007, 05:37:31 PM »

Quote from: Lucky on February 03, 2007, 08:00:18 PM

the S line reuse if it's not dryrotted.

Looks like it's going to have to be cut off.... Look in Kragen for a part or just order it? Discuss :-)

Brian

supervision · « **Reply #111 on:** February 05, 2007, 08:34:44 PM »

Brian you could try hot water to soften the old hoses Tiger, now I remember you posted about the kits a few days ago, thanks thanks Lucky, thanks Coil 2mm larger should = more speed

Brian Moffet · « **Reply #112 on:** February 17, 2007, 10:56:34 PM »

Quite a few of the lines had to be cut off (the T line came off no problem). The small lines that run between the carbs needed to be cut off as well. Thankfully, fuel line is pretty darned flexible and I don't think there will be any problems. I've been removing peripheral items and cleaning them up as I remove them. I now have the carbs as two separate pieces and will clean them one at a time.

I'll also probably drill out the screw to the little air filter so I can replace it, since I have the carbs sitting on my work bench...

Brian

Brian Moffet · « **Reply #113 on:** February 25, 2007, 08:28:44 PM »

The past few weeks have been busy for me, so I catch time to work on the bike when I can. One of the things I've been doing is putting in an electrical panel behind the dash. I've put in a 4-fuse block, and a 4 ground block. I tried to find a fuse block that takes blade type fuses, but have been completely unsuccesful. So, I used the normal old fuses. Since that panel doesn't move, and that area doesn't get wet no matter what the weather, I think it will work out fine. I haven't put in a main line fuse from the battery to the fuse block, rather the first (top in photo) acts as the main fuse and then the others are pulled off of that. I'm not sure I won't redesign this in the future, but it looks solid.

The switch at the top of the panel is for the running lights, It is tucked up under the fairing itself a little bit, but it can be reached while in riding position. Turns out that the instructions I received were incorrect, they had the switch wired backwards. I wasn't sure, so I tested, and I'm thankful.

And finally, I completely cleaned and fixed up the fuel pump from the carbs using the "Keyster Carb Kit" I received from Ebay.

Night Vision · « **Reply #114 on:** February 25, 2007, 10:28:57 PM »

Quote from: Vision Rising on February 25, 2007, 08:28:44 PM

I tried to find a fuse block that takes blade type fuses, but have been completely unsuccesful.

yeah, they aren't easy
to find. I got two from
PEP BOYS
a year or so ago... then they
went out of stock.. I decided
to try another Pep Boys..
sure enough they had two of them...
the shelf tag said $15 some odd cents
which is what I paid for the other two.

went to check out....
$2.29 !!!!!!!!!!

"well, better ring me for two, there sweetie"...

oops... problem.. the second scan came up
$4.20... "sorry"....

"oh, ok... if that's right than I'll take two... I guess...."

and no...
the spare
is
mine
mine
mine......

GT @ oh. · « **Reply #115 on:** February 26, 2007, 08:11:41 AM »

What condition was the pump in would you say...... definitly in need of cleaning and rebuild or did it just because you could??

Brian Moffet · « **Reply #116 on:** February 26, 2007, 10:15:03 AM »

The pump was actually in good condition, some discoloration of the internal diaphragms, but the valve appeared to be in great condition. Given how difficult they were to get out and back in (replaced) I should have just stuck with the old ones and just replaced the diaphragms. The gaskets were okay, it was better to replace those.

Brian

GT @ oh. · « **Reply #117 on:** February 26, 2007, 12:32:48 PM »

I hope there are lots of pics forthcoming...... because....... I am going to have to tear into mine and would like to know what to expect.Mine is starting and idling fine.... cruising is fine too...... but try to jump on it and it just gives up....not the normal V stumble which I recall as a brief stumble then getty-up.I don't think the "stealer" guy knew what he was doing ( I know he didn't ) cause when I was asking him what he had done to clean the carbs.... he was like.... I guess I could check the mains now that I know where they are at.....and when I ask if he checked the jets....he was like....I don't think this carb has air jets. Great huh...you'd think someone doing it for a living would know more than that.....I was wrong....so for those who are thinking of going to "stealer" to fix your ride .....don't! I'm thinking mains or accel.pump.... since it only acts up when you throttle up.....good place to start me thinks... what do you all think??

Tiffanator · « **Reply #118 on:** February 26, 2007, 02:22:29 PM »

Hi Brian, I have followed your progress through this and I must say I'm inspired. I'm trying to get mine to at least light up and crank, then I'll do the same thing you are doing here.
About your electrical panel under the dash.. this interests me. What all do you have fused and wired up there? Is this taking the place of the rats nest in the headlight box? I have been trying to think of a way to fabricate a fuse panel that holds the mini-blade fuses.
Tiff

Brian Moffet · « **Reply #119 on:** February 26, 2007, 02:32:59 PM »

No, it doesn't take the place of the rats nest (mine isn't in the headlight, the 83s had a rubber "baggy" to hold it all in). I have in mind at least 2 things for the fuse block:

a set of small running lights mounted under the turn signals, 55w each which will help during the daylight and probably at night as well.
a voltmeter/clock mounted on the dash (which I have to find first, I think it's in a tank bag!)

I am leaning toward having each light on it's own fuse rather than both sharing a single fuse, but since I'm not at that stage of wiring yet I haven't committed to one way or the other. The image shows the fuse block on the left and what I am using as a ground block on the right. Each of these has a line going directly to the battery. Like some other people, I'll probably put in a relay to turn this system on when the key is turned on (eventually).

One thing I still need to do is to put in connectors so I can pull the dash off without having to reach under it to undo the hot and ground lines. That's an easy thing to do so I left it until I finalize the wiring layout.

Brian

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Author Topic: Dead Dirty Vision (Read 39458 times)