Dead Dirty Vision

[Brian Moffet]

Today was the day to put the rest of the electrical back together. Main goal, in amongst not doing anything wrong because I was on allergy medication, was to figure out why the neutral light would not come on. The first thing I did was to verify the switch itself worked. In order to reach the switch, you have to take off the kickstand mounting system, and the shifter linkage mechanism. Once that is off, it's a clear shot to the screw that connects the wire to the switch. I pulled off the wire, cleaned it well, and verified that the switch worked fine.

After that was done, I followed the line back up into the main cavity between the battery and TCI, where all the electrons go zipping about. Because several lines follow the bottom of the crankshaft, this was fairly difficult. I noted that the neutral switch wire and the oil pressure wire were in the same connector, not seperate connectors. I don't know if this is a difference between the RJ and RK models. I followed the line up and found the other end of the connector. I disconnected it and verified that the wire was not broken in between there. Odd, it appeared that the other side of the connector went back down into the engine along the crankcase. I followed it, and indeed it did. I had connected the oil pressure/neutral connection to the sidestand switch.

I went to the right side of the bike, and started looking for where the other connectors were supposed to be. It took me a while, but I did track them down. Connecting the correct connectors, I then reconnected the battery, and turned the key. The photo tells the final tale. I was actually able to turn over the engine by pressing the starter button, but with no fuel, there was no way it was going to start.

[Brian Moffet]

The wires have been contained, repeat, the wires have been contained. Needless to say, I did some careful looking at the wire-routing diagram for the 1983, and the basic idea is to separate the two main bundles into left and right of the brake line connection.  I left mine on, even though I now have the two-line system from Galfer, just so I don't lose it. I also added in the anti-freeze, which took a while.  I would add some, wipe up the spill, wait a while, add some more.  I undid the bleed on top of the Tee behind the radiator, and that went fairly easily.  I occasionally ran the starter to get the water pump working.  Finally, after about 3/4 of a gallon, the level in the radiator didn't drop at all.  I wrapped teflon tape around the bleeder nut and put it back in. And, finally, I spent some time sanding and painting the frame that the fairing connects to.  You can't see it, but it's hanging from my garage door opener rails by bungie cords. I went to pick up a fuse block (actually two) but the local Kragen was out of them.  I want to attach one under the fairing for miscellaneous devices (like my voltage gauge) Oh yes, and the horn works fine, Thanks Tiger :-) Brian P.S. my bike is still mostly original, but it's getting more pieces from other bikes on it.  I'm waiting for my shorty-stalks to come in, to see how they work out!

[Tiger]

 ...Your welcome, Brian... Nice to follow along with your thread's. Your doing a great job, it'll be great to see the finished "article"... Let me know if you need anything else.

                .......TIGER.......
                 

[Brian Moffet]

A good and bad day...

I looked everything over and decided I was able to safely start the bike.  I had found a radiator leak at the new hose where it meets the T just beyond the radiator.  Just a small amount of fluid on the ground, but noticeable.  I pulled the hose back somewhat and wrapped the junction with teflon tape, then put the hose back on.  Clean things up, wait a little while and there was no more leak.

So I had been charging the battery all day Saturday while I was working on my plane (it needed to have the rudder trim cleaned out so it would work better.)  I tested the voltage this morning and it was at 12.7 after sitting all night.  I put the tank back on (still cannot see any rust in the thing!) and plugged all of the tubes back in.  I did not put the air filter back on the carbs yet.  I let the bike sit for 10 minutes on prime, and verified that gas was getting in by opening the drains.

Then came the final moment.  I rolled the throttle 5 times, and punched the starter.  It turned over, but nothing.  I stopped, let the bike sit for another 5 minutes.  Rolled the throttle 5 more time, punched the starter button, and it started. 

The sound was smooth, I had gotten rid of the exhaust leak.  More like the standard mega sewing machine.  I let the bike warm up for a little while.  I slowly started revving the engine, 2000 RPM and it sounded good.  4000 and it was good.  5000 and it died suddenly.  I repeated this exact scenario twice more.

The carbs are now off the bike.

Brian

[Night Vision]

that sucks but don't be sad 

just taking a bike down that far down and getting it to start back up is an accomplishment.

sounds to me like you're better off than you were..

if you hurry, there is an eBay auc for an 83 carb kit going off in less than a day. seems like there were bunches of the 83 carb and pump kits a week or two back...

if you win that auc, ask sirius for another at the same price, tell them you want a fuel pump kit, and combined shipping too!!  they'll work with ya

even if the carb is not the problem, you've put too much effort in the ressurrection not to rebuild them. jmho

[Brian Moffet]

Yup, it's definately been a "Since I'm here, I might as well..."  type of job.

Maybe since I'll be down for a while longer I'll pull the lower fairing brackets and paint them.  If I do, I think the only part left on the frame that isn't painted is the rear brake drum.. 

Hmm.  (which is not easy because of allergies!)

Brian

[Night Vision]

just curious (and thinking out loud)

you said you cut the rev wire
you said plugs looked good back when..
you said you got an eBay TCI
you said it runs like a champ up to 4,999.99 rpms

did you have same results with both TCI's 

[Brian Moffet]

The new TCI is on the bike now.  The old one is sitting on my work bench, so since I was having a similar problem back when, my assumption is that it is not the TCI.

Also, one more clue, when revving up to 2500 or so, (higher than idle) it takes a while to drop back to idle.  The vacuum lines are all good, and I water tested the YICS.  My dad said it sounded like a problem he had with his Venture when a rubber seal split in the carb, who knows. 

Brian

[QBS]

Make sure your carbs are well synched and that their emulsion tubes and high speed/power jets are clean.  5000k is the transition point from the low speed fuel circuit to the high speed/power circuit.

[h2olawyer]

Looks like lots of "patina" on those carbs.     They would likely benefit from a little TLC.  Besides, after all the cleanup & paint you've done so far, reinstalling those carbs would be tantamount to croutons on a cow pie.   

H₂O

[Brian Moffet]

Well, I won the carb rebuild kits (which I need to verify, but looks like 2 carb and 1 acc pump kit) for 10.50.

And I'm not sure "Croutons on a cow-paddy" is quite the correct order   

Brian

[h2olawyer]

Knew the order was wrong, but the sentiment seemed appropriate.   

Your bike is really looking great.  Now if you can just get it to run properly.  The carb & fuel pump kits should help.  Great deal on them, by the way.

H₂O

[GT @ oh.]

I hope this means you are going to do a carb cleaning/rebuild with lots of pics and how to's 

[Brian Moffet]

Still waiting on my carb rebuild kit, though since it was shipped to work and I haven't been there for a week, it's probably waiting for me. The wires by the battery box are a hot and cold line that will go to a buss behind the fairing.  16 gauge wire good for 10 amps, mostly to power the new lights (55 watt x 2, not currently installed). The fairing needs cleaning still, but I wanted to verify the fit of where the new fuse box will go, along with the lights that will be below the turn-signals (I'm leaning toward that anyway.) And I finally lost a bolt, one of the ones that hold the mirror mounts on.    Off to the hardware store I go... Brian

[Walt_M.]

Is that your original exhaust? Mine rotted out years ago and I got a Spec II for it, probably in '86, don't know exactly when but it was after my trip to my brother's wedding in '85.

[Brian Moffet]

Yeah, those are my original exhaust.  Most of the riding I do is long enough to heat up and evaporate the moisture, and the bike has been garaged its entire life.

Brian

[Walt_M.]

That is just amazing!

[Kevin]

Just a suggestion here, consider mounting your running lights off the fender mounting bolts, the farther away from the headlight the more distinct or eye catching they are to oncoming traffic. run the wiring alongside the brake lines.

[Walt_M.]

Do NOT run wiring along the brake lines! If there is an electrical short it could damage the brake lines. Just think, you are riding along and a rock gets kicked up, hits your light wiring, shorts it out and burns a hole in your brake line. No lights, no brakes, now what?

[Brian Moffet]

thought of running the lights down by the fender, but I don't like how the wires will have to run.  I haven't completely decided yet, I still have to make mounting brackets for them.

Brian