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Dead Dirty Vision

Started by Brian Moffet, July 05, 2006, 10:27:48 AM

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h2olawyer

I have a similar setup behind my fairing.  Didn't attach the fuse block & ground strip to the dash - used the fairing frame & zip ties.  So far, I have a voltmeter, auxilliary lights and power port (to run a helmet camera & GPS) wired into it.  Mine is wired direct to the battery without a relay (yet) as well.  It has an inline 30A fuse in the main + wire.  Makes adding new accessories very easy.  No need to tap into the existing, fragile wiring harness and the wire runs are short.  Found the blade type fuse box & negative strip at AutoZone.

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

Brian Moffet

Quote from: h2olawyer on February 26, 2007, 02:56:35 PM
Didn't attach the fuse block & ground strip to the dash - used the fairing frame & zip ties. 

Yeah, thought of that, I may end up doing that anyway.  It's fairly moveable under there.  I decided I wanted to be able to pull the entire "sub-panel" off in one piece.

I tried 4 different auto and electronics stores in my area, no one had a blade-type fuse block over the last 2 months of trying...

Brian

h2olawyer

I can check if AutoZone here has any more of them next time I'm near there.  If they do, I'll pick one up & send it to you.  They're inexpensive.  As I recall, it has 6 circuits.  There's a stud & nut to attach the power lead which feeds three fused circuits on each side of the fuseblock.  Each circuit takes a new style flat fuse and has a male spade terminal to attach the wire for the accessory.

Next time I have the fairing off, I'll take photos of my installation.  The parts jiggle a little bit, but it takes a fair amount of force to get them to actually move.  I'll probably do some tweaking to make it more secure and find a good circuit in the headlight bucket to use for the relay so the aux circuits turn on & off with the key.  That way, I can attach the voltmeter to it & not worry about draining the battery.  Forgot that I decided not to hook up the voltmeter to it yet for that very reason.  However, it will make a great place to get the power as the fuseblock & ground strip are fed by 10 gauge wire.  Shouldn't have much voltage loss with just a couple connectors & a relay between the battery & the voltmeter.

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

Brian Moffet

Quote from: h2olawyer on February 26, 2007, 04:45:31 PM
I can check if AutoZone here has any more of them next time I'm near there.  If they do, I'll pick one up & send it to you. 

Thanks, not a big hurry obviously :-)

I decided to use 16 gauge wire rather than 10 gauge, because I didn't see me drawing more than 10 amps from the thing.  However, since it just runs along the old wiring harness, it wouldn't be hard to replace.  I'd have to replace the back connections (where I gang the hot and ground sides) but that's not too difficult either.

Brian

h2olawyer

Just got back.  Had a couple errands to run & Checker Auto was on the way.  Needed some other things for the truck anyway.  Found an ATC type fuse block.  Its made by Buss Fuses.  Catalog # vBP/15600-06-20  Each of the 6 circuits can run up to 30A.  Good if you're going to run your aux. lights off the block.

I went with the heavier feed wire just in case a high power device is added.  Thinking about grip heaters & heated clothing in the future - something you Californians don't have to worry much about.   ;D

PM me your address & I can get it in the mail for you.

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

supervision

 h2, what about when we come to go ride with you, I been thinking about a vest ya know, and grips or maybe hand gaurds to block the wind, hard to ride when your teeth are chattering!   I'm jazzed about comming back and ridding with you in June. I have been working on aset of 83 carbs and a few other things, to try back there.  sv
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h2olawyer

SV -

Temps in mid-June can get chilly up high.  Figure on low 40s @ elevations over 10,000.  Generally, the riding at that elevation only lasts a few minutes.  Most of the riding will happen from 8,000 to 10,000 feet.  Temps should be in the 60s & low 70s for daytime highs.  Mornings will start out cool - upper 30s & low 40s but I don't anticipate getting rides rolling until around 10 AM.  As soon as the sun is up, temps tend to rise pretty quick.  A benefit of low humidity.  The ride over Trail Ridge goes over 12,000 and Mt. Evans is over 14,000.  I've never really been too cold up there even before the full fairing.

Aerostich has an inexpensive grip heat system for about $35.  I'm going to order & install them this Spring.  Other than that, a good riding jacket with a heavy turtleneck under it & good leather riding gloves should keep you warm enough.  The only times I felt I needed heated clothing is when I've ended up riding in a snowstorm - temps in the mid 30s.  Doubt it will be that cold in mid June, but it is a possibility.  I've seen snow at elevations above 8500 feet every month of the year - July & August included.  If you have a rain suit, make sure to bring it.  Those things are not only good for rain, but work wonders at keeping the wind chill from getting very bad.

Speeds over the higher passes are generally lower than normal highway speed limits (55 - 65 MPH in CO).  Trail Ridge is 35 MPH & fairly heavily patrolled by federal cops - it is a National Park after all.  Won't be a speed run as the scenery is just too magnificent & the traffic is kind of heavy.  However, coming back over the mountains from Estes Park - the long way around - has lots of fast sweepers, a few twisties & some long high speed straights.  There's even a "Moose Visitor Center" that makes a fantastic stop.

Looking forward to riding with you again, too!

Sorry for the thread hijack, Brian.  Back to your reconditioning!

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

supervision

  Ok, I feel better now,  sorry Brian, hey last time we went riding, Brian was there too!  Maybe Brian should go to Co. and try out his scooter   sv
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Brian Moffet

Quote from: h2olawyer on February 26, 2007, 08:55:08 PM
Sorry for the thread hijack, Brian.  Back to your reconditioning!

No problem.  I'm not going to be able to make it to Colorado, the timing isn't working out.

Brian

Brian Moffet

Most of the carb work I've done has been mentioned in a different topic, but I've included 2 photos here of the rear carb and the front carb.  The rear is now complete, the front has a brief "dusting" so to speak.   On the front carb, I managed to crack the 140 main air jet on top of the carb, so I will have to replace it.  I was able to get it out.  The Keyster carb kits don't contain this jet, but they're only 7 bucks at DGY.

I also polished my front windscreen and that removed all of the yellowing.  I used "Micro-Mesh".  Unfortunately, I think I need to go back and use the finer polishing cloths to remove some of the scratches.

Rear Carb Front Carb (pre-cleaning)


QBS

What is "micro mesh", where is it available from, and what's the general process of its' usage?

Brian Moffet

Quote from: QBS on March 13, 2007, 07:04:06 PM
What is "micro mesh",

http://www.sportys.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&did=19&product_id=343

It's basically finer and finer sheets of what appears to be emory cloth or wet-dry sandpaper.  The instructions say to start with the 1500, and move up to 6000.  I got most of the yellowing off with the 1500, and then I guess I didn't use enough of the higher grits to remove the faint scratches from the lower grits.  You're supposed to alternate "horizontal" and "vertical" sanding.

Finally, you apply a buffing compound to the cloth they provide and buf to a shine.  I found this in my hangar at watsonville, so I didn't pay for it (well, I did when I bought the plane I guess.)

Brian



h2olawyer

I thought it was an aircraft restoration product.  I remember hearing about something that is used on older plastic aircraft windows to remove yellowing & crazing.  This sure sounds like the stuff.  Thanks for the post, VR.

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

Brian Moffet

Quote from: h2olawyer on March 15, 2007, 02:07:00 PM
Thanks for the post, VR.

Hmm, in a  couple of weeks I just might have to change my nickname to something else...

Brian  (Vision Risen?)



YellowJacket!



Living the dream - I am now a Physician Assistant!!   :-)

Brian Moffet

#135
 The running light brackets fit between the fairing and the fairing frame and there is no interference anywhere.  And oh yes, these are the shorty turn-signal stalks  :)

h2olawyer

Those look great.  I like the small size & rectangular shape.  Fits well with the bike.

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

Lucky

I'm wondering if their light output would mask the turn signals, thereby not letting a vehicle in front realize your about to turn?

if you won't have them on for on-comming trafic that kind of defeats the purpose, or are they only for trying to get a better look at large woodland creatures before they try to kill you?  :o :o
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

Lucky

Rereading my last post, if it sounds like i'm picking on you, i'm not, it's a safety concern...
--Lucky
1982/3 XZ550 Touring Vison, Gold on Black

Brian Moffet

#139
Yeah,. I have the same concern of masking the turn signals.  But without mounting them on the forks, I can't think of a good way.  I put them on to provide both a visual for someone to see me better, as well as the show woodland critters.  Of course, I've never really depended on the turn signals for people in front of me, mostly for people behind me.  Not sure why that is...

Brian