Front fork maintenance

[coulter]

 When I picked up my vision I noticed what seemed like some minor oil leakage around the fork where the top part goes inside  the bottom. As I have the bike parked for upgrades over the winter, I was wondering how difficult it is to change seals etc that might cause leakage. The bike was previously owned by a first time rider who may not have even noticed anything substandard and I haven;t even riden bike yet. What would be worth while to check before I put bike on road next spring??

[Rick G]

You can do the forks your self. Pick up new seals at  your local bearing supply ,they work fine  and are around 6.00 each . Genuine  Yamaha  seals will be around 40.00 for the set.
Go to luckys site , I'm sure he has the procedure there, then ask questions on anything you don't understand.

[coulter]

I noticed in the service manual that a special tool is required? This is referred to when you reinstall forks and tighten cap bolts to spec, Says use special tool. Anyone know what this is refering too? I hate to start dismantling and find out i'm stuck without a special tool.

[louthepou]

I took a bolt of matching size (is it 15 mm? 17 mm?), put a nut on it, then an other nut, welded the nuts together, voila: my special tool to unscrew / screw the fork caps. Essentially, it's like a big allen key.

Remember to loosen the drain bolts (opening on the bottom of the sliders) before you loosen the forks from the tripple clamps. Makes the dismantling of the forks a lot easier.

Louis

[coulter]

Thanks Lou and do you still have that left switch?? E-mail me

[coulter]

Thanks for ATF tip but how do you fill?? remove forks to add fluid or just Hex bolt at top. Also your E-mail didn't work says doesn't exist?
art

[louthepou]

Hi Art,

To fill the fork, you need to loosen the TOP tripple clamp by loosening the handlebar (two allen bolts) BEFORE you try to loosen the fork cap but you leave the LOWER tripple clamp tight (so the fork leg won't turn as you apply torque to the cap).

The fork stays in place. Carful when tightening the handlebar back on, it doesn't fit snug against the triple clamp. I reccommend a torque wrench. Only do one side at a time, so you have the other side to look at in case of doubt.

Were you talking about my e-mail not working, or fiddlestick's?

[coulter]

Fiddlstcks e-mail didn't work yours did and you have mail ;D

[Rick G]

Some times the hex plug in the top of the fork is VERY hard to get out. Pick up a VW drain plug wrench at your local auto parts store , its perfect for breaking them loose and its only 5.95.

[fiddlesticks]

D'oh
I know why my email doesnt work. Its msn.com not hotmail. Fixed er. Anyway back on topic. We just undid the hex bolts(quite the job if theyve never been unscrewed) We had to undo the pinch bolts too but you may not have to. Took out the washers, spacers, and spring. Clean up if necessary. Pour in the correct amount of Atf the book calls for. Do them back up. It sounds harder than it is. We were nervous of the job, but Brian Matthewson was kind enough to show us the ropes.
Oh I forgot to add, to do them one at a time or the bike will fall over.

[coulter]

Thanks, Now why the ATF fluid over fork oil or are they the same thing??

[fiddlesticks]

I beleive the atf has a thicker consistancy. Also atf has conditioners that restore seals.  :)

[louthepou]

That may be a dumb question, but... Why ATF? I mean, what's wrong with fork oil? Is it just because it's harder to find?

Louis

[KDS]

   I would recommend you purchase a 15wt fork oil and not use atf or aeroshell 4 in yor forks as the wt varies to much. take out your springs and remove the fork tubes,turn them upside down to let them drain you will be surprised how much crap comes out. cycle them  in and out a few times. reinstall the tubes and colapse the lower leg - with the spring out fill each one to within 6" from the top.
  Have fun KDS

[Josh M]

I think ( and I may be off here ) that ATF is equal to 5 weight fork oil.  A lot of people use it because it's easier to find than fork oil.  If you can find fork oil, use it, ATF is like a catch-all.  It will do the job, but its not really what it's supposed to do.  I've got 15 or 20 weight in my forks now, and they work great(well, as good as 22 year old damper rod forks can work ;))

[coulter]

Thanks all for replies. I have access to fork oil so will go that route. Nice to know ATF is a back up though!!

[Extent]

I did a little searching on the topic since I was wondering what the deal w/ ATF was as well.  It'll do in a pinch, but from what I read the weight of the oil is not strictly enforced in the ATF spec, so ATF can land anywhere between 5wt and 17wt, so you're better off using real fork oil.

[George R. Young]

Some times the hex plug in the top of the fork is VERY hard to get out. Pick up a VW drain plug wrench at your local auto parts store , its perfect for breaking them loose and its only 5.95.

The dinky screwdriver handle from the toolkit can be used to remove or install the hex nut atop the fork.

[louthepou]

George, brilliant find!

I often commit the sin of forgeting the existence of this toolkit. Great to remove the plugs too. Thanks!

Louis

[Rick G]

I use ATF for a couple of reasons . Mine rode like the forks were full of cement when I changed the oil and filled them with the recommended 15 wt fork oil.
So I went back to my youth when we used  atf  to get better fork action from Triumph front ends (Meriden not Hinkley)  I've heard that atf varies,  but  don't buy it , its 7.5, wt.