Drain the fuel tank??

[Josh M]

I'm planning on storing my bikes soon and I normally store them with the tank full and fuel stabilizer added to the gas, but there are some issues I will need to clear up on the V over the winter (leaking carbs, leaking petcock) so I want to drain the fuel tank.  The last time I tried to drain the tank through the petcock, I couldn't get it all.  Is there something I'm missing, or do I need to pull off the petcock and drain it that way?

[Lucky]

there is a round phillis at the very bottom of the petcock that is a drain screw (facing out). the problem is that as i'm sure you know, the corners of the tank are lower than the petcock, so there is no way to drain all the fuel using the petcock.

the solution is to pull the petcock and roll the tank forward to back, tilted a little to the left.  a sponge or rag in the hole should help soak up whatever fuel is left after that.

don't be surprised if you get some rust & crap out of the hole if the tank isn't sealed.

one other bit of advice: use an impact screwdriver to remove the petcock screws if their tight BEFORE you round them off toss those petcock mounting screws and pick up a coupla hex screws, and put a dab of never-seize on the threads.  if you do this, next time you need to remove them, it'll be one less time you'll have to swear at the bike, lol

--Lucky  

[Superfly]

I just threw out them Darn Petcock screws... what a bad place for a screw!!  I replaced with hex-bolts so next time I take it off, I won't need a pair of Vice-grips...

[louthepou]

If I am not mistaken, the section of the tank that's lower that the petcock is to hold some water and other stuff that's not gas and denser than it (rust comes to mind). But it also means that water getting stucked there will have fun chewing at the metal. Good idea, every now and then, to flush the tank clean.

The "back and forward" method Lucky describes does work. It's a bit messy, but hey. Then, hang the tank or let it rest somewhere with the petckock and gas cap off for a few days; it'll be dry (so... no rusting during the winter).

Louis

[wolfman]

Last winter I drained what I could by putting the Petcock on "Prime" then removed it and sloshed out some more.  The tank then sat out in the sun for a day or so with the cap off.  The heat from the sun evaporated out all that was left.  I drained the carbs by removing the drain screws. (Carbs stayed on the bike all winter)  The tank was stored INDOORS in the basement with the cap and petcock off (well I was painting the tank anyway)  The next spring, carb drain screws in, fresh gas in the reinstalled tank, 5 minutes on prime, and she fired right up immediately.  I will be repeating this proceedure in the next week or so as she will be going once again into her long winter sleep.  I have not yet decided whether to repaint AGAIN or not.  She looks fine as is, but I am far from happy with the laquer I used last year, so it may be enamel here I come as I may decide to paint the saddlebags and trunk I got this summer to match and have NO desire to do battle with finiky laquer EVER again.

(NOTE:  My tank is internally coated with POR15)

[Rick G]

Don't bother with spray can enamel , any spilled gas will wash the paint right off and send it down over the engine . Automotive paints applied with professional equipment will be much more durable, but some of those will "flatten" on repeated exposure to gasoline.

[louthepou]

Ah, if only I 've had access to Rick's freedom a year and a half ago. I am NOW equipped with a good gravity fed small spray gun, know more about Dupont automobile paints and am ready to tackle the 83 I got a few weeks ago...

Now that Hfarley gave me good ideas, I may decide to redo my 82 (that was spray canned red...) as well  ;)

Louis