A few questions...

Started by DancinOn1Wheel, October 20, 2004, 03:22:58 PM

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DancinOn1Wheel

Ok, to save any troubles, I DID A SEARCH, but was unable to find the info that i am looking for so i am asking...

my 82 really needs an oil change and rear end fluid change. I have seen everyone saying they are running synthetic 10/40 or 20/50. i think im going to go with the 10 as i run it in all my bikes and seems to be working out great for the colorado climate. BUT, i have no way of finding out how much oil i need to put in for an oil change with filter. I searched for a few hours for this info and i dont know if im just a complete moron and not finding it or if it is actually not posted anywhere, but if someone could tell me the amount i will need for the change, that would be great.

also, same question for the rear end. The bike came with no manuals, and currently i have enough funding for either the manuals or the fluid chages, not both... so if anyone could tell me wut kind of gear oil to run in the rear end, that would be fantastic as well and aslo how much it takes.

*EDIT* almost forgot... when checking the oil thouh that stupid little glass thing.... do i do that with the bike on the side stand or center stand???

thanks.

- Jusitn
I am grateful that I am not as judgmental as all those censorious, self-righteous people around me.

~=~ My Ebay Store ~=~

coulter

rxz550rj service manual reads
Engineoil
Periodic change 2.4l (2.1 Imp. qt, 2.5us qt)
With oil filter replacement 2.7L(2.4imp qt,2.9us qt)
Total amount 3.4L (3.0imp qt, 3.6 us qt)
Final gear case oil amount (.2l (.18impqt , .21 us qt)

gear oil type-- SAE80API "GL-4" Hypoid oil
engine oil -- Yamaha 4-cycle oil or SAE20W40 if temp does not go below 40F
             --SAE 10W30 if temp does not go above60F

Temp thing confuses me,hope this helps as straight from service manual

MotorPlow

Also,
You check the engine oil on the center stand.

~Chris

ProfessorRex

Center stand - WARM ENGINE! Don't forget to have the enging at operating temperature when changing the oil.  A good way I have found to do this is to ride over to the store, buy my oil, and ride home.
Hey honey, uh, I got another vision... HONEY??? Oh yea, thats right she moved out...

silicon_toad2000

also, when you check the oil, start the bike to get the oil through the filter, but leave it for a while to drain back to the sump from the top of the engine. The top end of these things hold a large amount of oil just after the bike is switched off. he first time i checked mine, i started looking for an oil leak as the window was empty, about 20minutes later when i checked it again the oil was at the proper level
One mans clunker is another mans blank canvas.

Extent

The proper oil level for the final gear is when it's right even with the top thread of the bottom of the filler plug, just to the point of flowing out.
Rider1>No wonder, the Daytona has very sharp steering and aggressive geometry.  It's a very difficult bike for a new rider.
Rider2>Well it has different geometry now.

QBS

When changing the oil, after you have drained the old out and changed the filter, dump two US quarts straight in, then...........while observing the oil level in the sight glass, carefully add oil from the third quart.  Add oil until the sight glass is full, then stop.  Run the engine until it is normally warm, let the bike sit for about 15 minutes and then top off the sight glass as needed.

On my '83, I find that it takes just a hair less than three US quarts.  Somewhere, either on the bike or in the owners manual or both, it says that an oil and filter change take 2.9 US quarts.  I usually just drop in three quarts and be done with it.  It might be a little over full, but in the last twenty years it has never shown any problems.  Cheers.