I would like to bring a technical issue to the table here

[Tiger]

For the motor, if you've got a decent stator and a clutch-release rod, let me know :-p There's a shiny penny in it for ya  :D

:) Sorry no stator  :'( , however, I have the clutch parts you require  8) ...p.m. me your name/address.


                          8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Tiger]

 :) MFF...Removed, cleaned and packed. I included the Screw and retaining ring, as well... ::) They went out in the mail this morning. Make a donation to the ROV site...just hit the PAYPAL donate button at the top of the page.

                8).......TIGER....... 8)

[motoracer8]

I don't reconize the part you are working on, But don't hammer on it any more. Get a 6mm or a 1/4" reverse drill bit, available at Sears, auto part stores etc. You have to have a revesable drill as well. You already have a counter sunk hole that will center your drill bit, hold your drill straight and put some pressure on it, sometimes the screw will back right out, if not drill through the head of the screw to the shank about 3/16" deep, the head will now come off, and you can remove the assembly. With the pressure off of the screw the shank will come out easley.

Ken G.

[AIRPLANE STEVE]

In the aircraft field we run into the same issue, steel fasteners in aluminum. There have been several very good ideas mentioned here. My sequence would have been as follows: first, try a PROPERLY SIZED screwdriver, not the one laying closest ot you on the floor, then if that failed I would move up to the impact screwdriver and some PB Blaster. If it is still not cooperating, a little heat (aluminum transfers heat quite well, and that works in our favor) followed with some more persuasion of the impact screwdriver. If still no go, the left hand drill bit would be next. I purchased a set from sears also and found that if I start with a smaller bit then move up to a larger bit, the larger bit can achieve a better bite. Two tricks here though, the first is know when to stop. I f you drill the head completely off then you have to change your game plan. The second, and this is a closely guarded secret, make sure that your drill speed is correct. By this I mean that a slow spinning high torque drill will do much better job of getting that critical bite. The typical mechanic usually does not give second thought to the drill speed. Now, with that said, every situation has its own set of circumstances. It may be that drilling the head off may be the simplest way to resolve the dilema. If you will have plenty of screw shank sticking out after the cover has been removed, then no big deal, put some vice grips on it. Best of luck.
                                                                 Airplane Steve

[Tiger]

 :) munkyfistfight, Have you had delivery yet... ??? Let me know.

                 8).......TIGER....... 8)

[munkyfistfight]

I did have delivery! Much appreciated.

I'm about to dig into this part of the process again. Work has been killing me this week. I'm buying a little torch from walmart and going to heat the crap out of it. Has anyone had any luck with thos Bolt-Out bits from Sears? The kind that fit over the head of the bolt? I think the trick will be loosening it up first and then hoping it'll come right out. Looking at the one Tiger sent me, it doesn't look like much,  but it's a big headache.