...worked on "The Mistress" to-day---UP-DATE.

[Tiger]

 :) Decided to do some work on "The Mistress" to-day... ::) Fitted a new set of steering head taper bearing's, pretty straight forward, really... ;) The original Ball Bearing's and races had no sign of wear, but where kinda in need of some fresh grease!!!...to late now, there in the recycle bin along with the races :o I managed to do this job without removing the upper fairing... 8)
I also fitted an '83 rear shock. Removed the rear wheel and removed the top bolt holding the shock...this makes it much easier to remove the cotter pin and remove the bottom pin. The old one came off no problem. Lower pin wasn't seized at all, sprayed it with penetrating fluid and left it to soak for 5 minutes and then I used a drift and hammer to pop it out. I cleaned up the pin with a piece of fine shop roll and applied a liberal coat of anti-sieze before re-installing...not forgetting to install a new cotter pin... ::) Installed the rear wheel and installed a new cotter pin in the axle castle nut.
I was out at the hardware store earlier and found some small round vents, aprox' 11/2" dia', metal, fixed louvere with a fine wire mesh screen fitted. I purchased one and installed it in the rear lower fender. I drilled a hole with a hole saw attached to a drill, while the wheel was off for the rear shock change out. They are supposed to be a press fit but I used red silicone gasket maker as extra insurance.This will allow some of the hot air from the rear head, overflow bottle, battery and electrical component's, to pass thru', without letting water and/or road grime in... I paid $1.50'ish... ;).

                  8).......TIGER....... 8)

[EH]

i replaced my steering head bearings with tapered also. however, i saved the balls and races for future ebay cash. maybe a purist born today will be willing to pay.

[Night Vision]

you had me going  ??? with the vent right up to the end.. I was trying to figure out what that had to do with the shock  ;)

seems like a good idea to me

I've seen those vents used on wood siding for some air so the paint won't peel off....

[Tiger]

seems like a good idea to me

I've seen those vents used on wood siding for some air so the paint won't peel off....

:)...yep, thats them. 5 minute job to install and practical to our cause of allowing some of that hot air to vent out.
???...Did you fit your rear shock yet N_V...and do you still need another one... ???

              8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Night Vision]

sent you a pm

[Tiger]

 :) N_V...Received...I will be out that way on Wednesday and will pick up what-ever they have on your list... 8)

??? Can someone explain the settings on an '83 shock please... ???

                  8).......TIGER....... 8)

[h2olawyer]

Preload adjustment is the same on 82 & 83 shocks.  Not sure about the damping adjustment - I just did some test rides trying different settings.  Found for my 225 pounds & conservative riding style, both set @ 3 works great.  The preload could be bumped one setting higher but then I start to feel the harder bumps & washboards in my lower back.

I believe on the damping that 1 is softest / slowest & 5 is firmest / fastest.  3 puts up with washboards best - at least the washboard pavement on the roads I normally ride.  Those things would toss the rear around quite a bit with the 82 shock & while not like riding on glass, it is definitely much smoother with the 83 shock.  Also, the rear brake is much more usable on rougher roads as the wheel tends to stay planted on the pavement.

The 83 owners manual has the info.  If someone has the 83 manual, a scan of the shock instructions would be awesome!

H₂O

[Night Vision]

:) N_V...Received...I will be out that way on Wednesday and will pick up what-ever they have on your list... 8) SWEET

??? Can someone explain the settings on an '83 shock please... ??? Yup, I bet I know what you're going through  :-\

on the shock I got, the adjustment ring no longer works correctly. I don't know if it was me  ::) or it came that way...

the black ring with the numbers on it has one little tooth that fits into a toothed ring on top of the shock that is similar to the one on the bottom of the shock. That black ring is split (by design).

you'll also notice there's a "roll pin" sticking up on top of the shock and that there's a notch in the top plate of the shock that the spring rests against

Because the tooth might be broken on the ring, this leads you to believe that when you turn the ring, it's supposed to move the pin......

NOT.........

carefully remove the black ring, it just snaps on or off, and expose the toothed gear at the top of the shock... then you can take channel locks to turn the toothed gear....

the toothed gear "clicks" when you go through the 5 adjustments. all the way clockwise till it won't turn any more is 5.. turning all the way counterclockwise can actually put you past the first setting (no more clicks)

After you loosened it all the way, and start to tighten it back down, you may get a "false" first click. turn it a couple of times and you'll find the five clicks you want..

Then... paint the roll pin and those five teeth opposite the roll pin that correspond to the settings just in case you don't want to do this again....

you can put the black ring back on if you like, and line up the number on the black ring with whatever "painted tooth" setting you have it on with that notch on the top plate....   


EITHER THAT, OR
you just want to know what the settings are and I could scan and email that page of the RK Supplement to you  :D

 

[Brian Moffet]

Merry Christmas.

[h2olawyer]

Thanks, Vision Rising!  Those are the diagrams I had seen someplace but can't remember where.  Mine are set @ 3 for both preload & damping (to compensate for excess tonnage that will take time & diet to remove).  Forks are @ 7psi.  May bump them up just a little bit to 8 or 9.  The rear shock is a major improvement over the 82 unit!

H₂O

[Tiger]

 :) Thank you all. Much appreciated....... 8)

              8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Tiger]

 :) Well, I've ridden for a long while now with this ringing noise coming out of the motor...balancer nut loose, so they reckon... ::) Sooooo, today I thought to myself...self, time to do her... :o

Note: Please refer to your manual's for correct torque setting's... ::)

:) Drained the oil (19mm socket), removed the gear shift from the shift shaft (10mm socket), remove the clutch cable from the clutch mechanism underneath the motor, made a rough cardboard template of the left side cover, remove all the cover soc' head cap screw's (5mm Allen key/wrench/socket), (all polished stainless from eeee-bay) and inserted them into the cardboard template. Remove the left side cover (tap with a soft face hammer, DO NOT lever off with a screwdriver) and completely clean off the old gasket from both the motor and side cover face's.

:) I used a bungee cord to hold the side cover out of the way, as the stator wires where still attached.

NOTE: Before you remove the flywheel, stuff a rag into the hole below it, where the oil drains into the engine sump. This will stop anything from entering this area...spring's/cap's/roller's, upon removal and bit's of old gasket, etc when you wash out the gear area before re-assembly.

:) Using an impact wrench I then removed the centre bolt from the flywheel (14mm socket), attached a puller, tightened by hand and then pulled her up with the impact wrench.......but she noooooo wanta let go, sooooo, out came my B.F.H... :o I alternated a few times between using the impact wrench and pounding with the B.F.H...Eventually she let go... ;) I gotta tell you all, when she lets go, she reeeeeeealy let's go!!! I got a real sore right wrist as a war wound when she flew off... :-[ :-[ :-[ That is one heavy chunk of metal!!!...you also have to watch where the 3 spring's/cap's/roller's end up... ;) 
8) Note: I folded in half a large old bath towel and put it under the motor to catch/cushion the flywheel and the three roller's/spring cap's/spring's.

:) Anyhow, I removed the large idler gear from the shaft and...YEP...the (46mm) nut WAS slack...One lock tab was partially bent over the second had never been used!!! I pulled the nut off and cleaned it and the thread's on the shaft and applied loctite (blue), re-installed and tightened the nut, bent over BOTH lock tab's... 8)

Note: Thanks to Canadian Lou, who purchased a 46mm wrench to do his "V"...which I borrowed!!! and to a buddy of mine (A Goldwing rider...1975, one owner!!!) He is a retired tool and die maker, (aircraft industry). He took the wrench and cut off the "Ring" end, machined the edge so there was no lead in chamfer, cold welded it to a length of pipe, to which he had already welded a cap with a 1/2" socket drive and "VOILA", as the French say!!! A custom made socket.

:) Removed and replaced the three starter clutch soc' head cap screw's,(M8 x 12mm, 1.0mm thread pitch), applied a liberal amount of RED loctite, torqued down and peened over the thread end's in a "shamrock" style... 8) Re-installed the 3 spring's/cap's/roller's, after checking for flat spot's. I found that by slipping the gear onto the rear of the flywheel it made installation easier, slide 'wheel onto the shaft and over the keyway, install centre retaining bolt with washer and torque down...tight!!!

:) I applied liquid gasket to the motor, (pay attention to the area where the stator wire's exit the motor/cover),and cover face as well as a thin coat to the gasket, left for 10 minutes to "tack up" and applied the gasket to the motor face...BEFORE you continue, check that you have the two alignment dowls either in the motor face or cover... ::) Re-installed the cover and S.S. soc' head cap screw's and tighten down. Re-install gear shift, clutch cable, re-fill with fresh oil and tighten oil filler cap... 8)

:) Now to fire her up and check my handy work... ;D :D ;) SWEEEEEET.... 8) NO ringing noise, just the sound of a quiet motor purring like a cat... ::) and the throaty rumble of the "MAC" exhaust  system... 8) 8) 8) Roll on spring ;D ;D ;D :D :D... ;)

Another job completed from my "TO DO" list...NEXT!!!               

 8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Tiger]

sent you a pm

Dear Night Vision,
Seeing you have been, more or less... ::)  a good boy, Santa has your list of "V" product's ready to ship, to you... 8)  ;D ;D ;D :D :D... ;) . Please see P.M...

Tiger C.E.O....Santa C Manufacturing Co Ltd..... 8)

[YellowJacket!]

sent you a pm

Dear Night Vision,
Seeing you have been, more or less... ::)  a good boy, Santa has your list of "V" product's ready to ship, to you... 8)  ;D ;D ;D :D :D... ;) . Please see P.M...

Tiger C.E.O....Santa C Manufacturing Co Ltd..... 8)

Oh Nooooo..... Its......



Scroll Down.......







TIGER CLAWS! :o

David

[Night Vision]

Oh Nooooo..... Its......

TIGER CLAWS! :o

good one!  :D

[don_vanecek]

Nice article tiger, I will print this off as I plan to do all this myself at some time in the future! (I do not have a heated garage unfortunately).

How long do you think it took you?

[Tiger]

Nice article tiger, I will print this off as I plan to do all this myself at some time in the future! (I do not have a heated garage unfortunately).

How long do you think it took you?

Hi Don,
Thank you, thought if I wrote it in this way it may help those about to do it... ;) B.T.W...I have one of those oil filled radiator's in the garage and it keeps the chill off...I bought it a few year's back at a yard sale... 8)

RE: How long do you think it took you?... Hmmm, good question...I think around 21/2 hour's(ish).
It's not a big job, as such. I made sure all the tool's that I would need where at hand, before starting and I like to make sure every thing is dead clean before I re-assemble. So, with thanks to my wife, Cathy, for buying me a 31/2 gallon part's washer for Christmas... 8) everything I removed was washed clean and the rest was "washed out" with a can of brake & part's cleaner. I have also made a couple of up-date's in the write up that you may want to read.

                    8).......TIGER CLAWS!!!....... ;D

[Tiger]

sent you a pm

Dear Night Vision,
Seeing you have been, more or less... ::)  a good boy, Santa has your list of "V" product's ready to ship, to you... 8)  ;D ;D ;D :D :D... ;) . Please see P.M...

Tiger C.E.O....Santa C Manufacturing Co Ltd..... 8)

Oh Nooooo..... Its......



Scroll Down.......







TIGER CLAWS! :o

David

;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D...Greeeeeeeeeat... 8)

[Tiger]

 :) I have been searching, to no avail, for the part that fits into the oil filler hole, so I could utilise the oil filler unit, having already installed the left side fairing mount.
I couldn't find anything "off the shelf" with the same thread, so I had one made up out of round aluminum rod at a machine shop...I took in a left side cover with the bracket and hose and explained what I needed. Guy made a great job, so now I have the bracket fitted as should be and I can top-up or re-fill the oil with-out having to remove the left side lower or using a funnel with an extended spout!!!
NOW...does any-one have: "For Sale" or picture(s), drawing(s), diamentions of the right side bracket... ??? I fab'd one when I installed the fairing after the re-paint but I would appreciate, as normal, your help for this one.

                  8).......TIGER....... 8)

[Brian Moffet]

If you don't get infoby then, I'll take some photos and measurements of mine tomorrow.

Brian