New Visioneer.

[YellowJacket!]

Be careful on oil in the cylinders, don't forget to pull out the spark plugs.

Where would you put the oil in if you didn't pull the plugs?  (which is what I did)

Brian

My guess would have been the intake ports. ;D

David

[Tiffanator]

Thanks guys. The solenoid is a goner... I'll go by the yamaha place tomorrow and see if they have one in stock. Until then I'm chasing down more electrical stuff.  Update... the horn now works.  it wasn't even hooked up and the contacts were so dirty that I couldn't even get a noise using aligator clips. I pulled the horn off... cleaned the contacts and it made a horrible little noise, so I took it apart and cleaned it and it sounds like a champ now.
Still working on the turn signals, I have verified using the jump lines that all the lights work, but I'm not getting any juice to the handlebar unit, so I'm going to work backwards til I find power.
Vision Rising... thanks, I have some mobile 1 V-twin that I bought for when I put oil back in the bike... is that too thick?  Do I need to find some fork oil?  I have the spark plugs out... they were toast.  I did check and have spark on both spark plugs, so that is good.  I have to get out to my parents house to pick up the compression tester, I'll do that soon, I'm worried about electrical now... since that's the brains of the whole operation.
Supervision... there was NOTHING in the gas tank... I take that back.. there was a spider web. Its totally empty, which is nice so it is ready for the POR treatment that is on its way to my house via UPS.  I'll for sure get never-sieze, although I've only come across two screws that I can't get out... the ones that go into the master cylinder... going to have to drill those out I think... I keep soaking them in PB Blaster and hoping for the best though.
Thanks guys, you are all lots of help.
Tiff.

[YellowJacket!]

Tiffany,
I don't remember you mentioning it, but there is a large clump of wiring harness in the headlight bucket and that is where the front turn signals connect.  If you are not getting any turn signal at all, its either the relay or the switch.

FYI, the HAynes manual does a good job of helping you sort out the electrical problems and has step by step guides for checking out each relay and connection.
Now, heres the shameless plug for my friend Lucky.  He has done a great job of putting together an "E" version on DVD of all the manuals and stuff.  Get in touch with him about a copy.  Its WELL worth it.
I'm kind of a geek, so I had both my paper Haynes Manual and my laptop in my garage while I was doing my restore.  I kept the manuals pulled up and had it set on ROV almost the whole time (Its actually my "Start" page on my laptop.)
Anyway, the disk is a great resource and well worth the nominal fee as it will probably save you its cost many times over.

Take Care,

David

[supervision]

  If you find a way to tear into the solenoid then you can probably repair it. It's only a coil of wire, see with your multi meter set on ohms, if it has any continuity.  touch the meter leads together, then look for a simulator result when you touch the two small leads.. if it's open find the broken wire.     An automotive solenoid from any older ford sells for about 10 bucks and can be cheep fix  sv

[supervision]

 auto solenoid needs allittle adpting

[Coil Coyle]

Ok guys... a night of chasing wires and here's what I have...
As soon as I cut the key on the taillight, brake light and license plate light come on.  so that means the guage lights come on too, and the green neutral light.  Headlight works, no turn signals, no horn, no start, no oil pressure warning light.  I jumped the starter solenoid with a screwdriver and the starter acted like it wanted to turn but it couldn't... it did that three times then nothing. Did I burn up the starter in my stupidity? No fuses blown. I'm thinking this bike has some shorts in the wiring, especially since the lights come on as soon as I turn the key on... something isn't kosher.  Where do I go from here? Everything appears to be plugged in correctly.
Thanks
Tiff

Tiffanator,
              Yes, you have wiring problems. :-\
Wiring problems are wonderful because an exact description of the symptoms leads to an exact description of the error. Go to TECH TALK and start a post that describes everything that comes on with the key.

            We'll work through one thing at a time with you. You'll probably have some "cute filler" posts but you'll also get your wiring solved.

$0.02
:P
Coil

[Brian Moffet]

Vision Rising... thanks, I have some mobile 1 V-twin that I bought for when I put oil back in the bike... is that too thick?

That will probably work fine.  I just had the fork oil available, and it was easier for me to get into the spark plug hole  :)  I used a battery filler squeeze thing (basically a turkey baster) which I also used to adjust my fork oil level.  (no it's never seen battery acid or anything else...)

Brian

[Tiger]

Now, heres the shameless plug for my friend Lucky.  He has done a great job of putting together an "E" version on DVD of all the manuals and stuff.  Get in touch with him about a copy.  Its WELL worth it.
David

:) I have to agree with Dave on this one...well worth the outlay, as it is a workshop manual, part's manual with p art number's...which frighten's the s**t out of spotty faced Yamaha part's boy's :o ;D :D :D ;) and has a lot of other usefull info on it... 8)

                      8).......TIGER....... 8)

[QBS]

Tif, be very very carefull when reassembling the planetary gears in your starternose.   They MUST be assembled so that the output shaft spins freely and without any signs of binding.  If assembled even one gear tooth out of place the starter will bind and turn with difficulty.  But, with a hot battery and good brushes, it will turn and probably crack the gear case in the process.  If assembled two or more teeth out of place the starter will not turn at all no matter what.  When assembling the planetary gears, looks can be very deceptive.  The difference between being assembled correctly and being one tooth off is virtually visually imperceptible.  You just have to give it your best shot  and try again if any binding is present.

You need to put a spring design oil seal in your starter if it hasn't already got one.  You mentioned that the brushes were just a little oily.  The good news is that it sounds like the brushes can be cleaned to serviceable condition.  The bad news is that it sounds like the starter nose oil seal is OEM.


How many miles does the odometer indicate.  This is important so as to project when several unavoidable OEM defects will need to be addressed.  Cheers.

[YellowJacket!]

Tif, be very very carefull when reassembling the planetary gears in your starternose.   They MUST be assembled so that the output shaft spins freely and without any signs of binding.  If assembled even one gear tooth out of place the starter will bind and turn with difficulty.  But, with a hot battery and good brushes, it will turn and probably crack the gear case in the process.  If assembled two or more teeth out of place the starter will not turn at all no matter what.  When assembling the planetary gears, looks can be very deceptive.  The difference between being assembled correctly and being one tooth off is virtually visually imperceptible.  You just have to give it your best shot  and try again if any binding is present.

You need to put a spring design oil seal in your starter if it hasn't already got one.  You mentioned that the brushes were just a little oily.  The good news is that it sounds like the brushes can be cleaned to serviceable condition.  The bad news is that it sounds like the starter nose oil seal is OEM.


How many miles does the odometer indicate.  This is important so as to project when several unavoidable OEM defects will need to be addressed.  Cheers.

I remember reading somewhere, either here or in one of the manuals to mark a notch or visible line at a place where the planetary gears meet up so when you put it back together, it will line up properly.

In any event, I was all prepared to do that and I found when I took my starter apart, it was laready done. ;D

David

[Tiffanator]

Hi guys, thanks again.  I'll start a post in the tech talk because there are some funny things going on with the bike now and I've been chasing it all day.
Vision Rising... thanks, I'll use a little of that and figure a way to get it down in there.
Dave and Tiger... yep... planning to order Lucky's CD as soon as I get my paypal account set up... that stupid add bank account thing is taking forever.  I check twice a day to see if its verified.  
QBS... the starter spun over several times and sounded very smooth like it was easily spinning, so maybe beginners luck.  I guess I'll find out if smoke starts coming from there.
Ok... off to the tech talk...
Tiff

[YellowJacket!]

Hi guys, thanks again.  I'll start a post in the tech talk because there are some funny things going on with the bike now and I've been chasing it all day.

Tiff

Heh heh heh.......

The Gremlins have been awakened........

Fear not though... we are here to help.

Ugh.  Iv'e been at the computer too long.  I'm losing my sanity.  But, its supposed to be noce tomorrow so a nice ride will clear my mind.

David

[GT @ oh.]

You should have replaced nose seal on starter while it was apart...... it is a must.... to keep oil out of starter ........as long as it spins freely you got it back together fine.Replace seal before you refill with oil as I'm sure you will get the gremlins sorted out and don't forget the other probs. mentioned Good Luck

[Tiffanator]

Dave... YES.. the gremlins have been awakened and they are having a great time running me and my voltmeter in circles.  I'll just have to get my gremlin exterminator out... not sure what that is yet... but I'll find it.
GT... yep... I'm making a list of stuff to do that everyone has mentioned.  I checked the bolts on the back wheel and they have been replaced and drilled through and wired in place... apparently the previous owner either had experince with that problem or read about it. 
Thanks
Tiff.

[GT @ oh.]

My bolts are pinned too.... I think from factory.

[Tiffanator]

Ok... so I did some thorough research on the starter and taking it apart and found some pics.  Apparently... my starter doesn't have seals on it.  I was referencing the Yamaha parts microfiche when I took it apart and just thought mine was a little different.. maybe it had been replaced somewhere down the road.  However I found more pics and it seems the two seals that fit between the three parts are gone, don't know if they rotted away or if someone rebuilt it and just left those off.  So I need those... oh well... it wasn't hard to get the starter on and off.  Also... I didn't pull the nose cone out of the engine... I wasn't that daring.  I pulled on it a little and when it didn't give I left it there... didn't want to tear anything up.  When I pull the starter again to put on the o-rings I'll yank that out and check it.
Supervision... sorry.. I skipped right over it... the odometer says 11,111 miles.  pretty funny that they stopped riding it right at that point.  The manufacture date is 2/82... so this bike is 2 months younger than me... ouch.

[h2olawyer]

Ok... so I did some thorough research on the starter and taking it apart and found some pics.  Apparently... my starter doesn't have seals on it.

The manufacture date is 2/82... so this bike is 2 months younger than me... ouch.

There is an excellent article on the starter seal here:  www.ridersofvision.net/Technical/Starter/starter.html

You have a mid-run Vision.  Both of mine were built in 11/81.  That means they're 21 & a half years younger than I am.  Thanks for making me feel my age . . .  ::)

H₂O

[Tiger]

So I need those... oh well... it wasn't hard to get the starter on and off. 

Tiff,
I'll get one, with the spring, out to you... ;)

                  8).......TIGER....... 8)

[h2olawyer]

Tiger -  I believe she is talking about the large square cut "O" rings that seal the starter body.  Correct me if i'm wrong, Tiff.  If those are what you are looking for, they aren't available from the dealer.  I know others have found suitable replaceements someplace, though.

H₂O

[Tiger]

Tiger -  I believe she is talking about the large square cut "O" rings that seal the starter body.  Correct me if I'm wrong, Tiff.  If those are what you are looking for, they aren't available from the dealer.  I know others have found suitable replacements someplace, though.

H₂O

:) I know, but figured that if Tiff' is going to pull the starter out and do a service she should install one then as opposed to later... ;)