New To The Vision (Not really anymore, but working it out)

[inanecathode]

It's only funny cause we've all been there, the dreaded jesus clip: *scruuuuuunch* *BZINNNNG!* "Jesus!"
Re: H2o you and your damn speed bleeders <_<

I think i'll try the ghetto mighty vac route. Lemme get this straight: Empty syringe with a hose attached goes into the bleed screw. Draw a vacuum on the syringe, crack the bleeder screw, and slowly push the brake lever in, once it bottoms, close the bleeder and return the lever. Rinse, repeat.

I'll try this first because it sounds much less messy than supervisions method (also i'm not sure i want bits of teflon in my brake system :o) that being said forcing air up is definitely the way to go. Its why most car manufacturers recommend back bleeding as opossed to traditional methods.

Word for the wise, brake fluid is a small enough molecule to go right through your skin and into your blood stream. It's been shown to sterilize men in high enough concentrations and cause all sorts of internal organ damage. Wear gloves kids :P

[h2olawyer]

Either method will work - vacuum or pressure inject the fluid into the system.  Biggest thing is to get the MC primed.

Don't think supervision's method will get teflon in the system, provided you work carefully.

I had less trouble getting the snap ring  than I did getting it out.  Have a set of snap ring pliers with three interchangeable jaws.  All were too big.

Keep at it - you'll eventually get that system solid again.

H₂O

[zore]

The short cut I use is to keep the brake line off the mc until it can build up some pressure.  I put my thumb over the hole when I release the lever. 

[supervision]

  say the normal way of wraping teflon is maye 3 turns then this is 4 or 5.   put it just on the thread and it won't go anywhere.  use a clear syrange and supply hose that fits the bleed screw, before you hook it up fill the syrange and bleed it out to the end of the hose as much as possible before you put it on the bleed screw, slowly inject the fluid..   the idea is that you want the teflon to be a temporary seal while you put in the fluid, once full just tighten the bleed screw and it will defeat the teflon.

[inanecathode]

Today's post is brought to you by the letter F

• For F**k sake
• Oh F**k
• OW! F**k

ACT ONE! (Revenge of the master cylinder)

First off, i broke my front brake switch (gorilla'd it when it didnt need to be gorilla'd). Thought i should get that out there.
I had a REALLY REALLY tough time of getting that damn master cylinder to function (im talking full throttle chucking of rocks, beating of pine trees, cutting of firewood). I had absolutely no pressure or anything happening up top. Putting some brake fluid in it did nothing cept make a few tiny bubbles come out, still nothing. Trying to traditionally bleed it did nothing. Forcing fluid up did nothing (except put a bit of momentary pressure at the brake handle). Pulling a vacuum at the caliper did nothing. Nothing did nothing for nothing. See a pattern here?
Heres what I DID do (take notes kids this might be on the test):
Put a syringe full of fluid onto the caliper bleeder
Put pressure on the syringe, crack the bleeder (at this point you might have fluid escaping the bleeder, no worries though)
Crack the brake line banjo bolt at the master cylinder (for me, s**t tonnes of air came out, probably a good lines worth)
Close the brake line banjo bolt
Close the bleeder
Rinse and repeat until the caliper up to the MC is clear
Crack the banjo bolt at the master cylinder
Push in brake
Close banjo bolt
Rinse and repeat until the master cylinder is bled out
Traditionally bleed the whole system

I did exactly as above and ended up with a rock solid brake, no sponginess, creeping, anything. I'm going to re-bleed the system in a few days just to make sure all the foam is out (got a little nuts on the lever, might have foamed up a bit of fluid)

ACT TWO! (the carburators of DOOM!)
Vision ran. like. crap. today. After a bit of professional help with getting the mix done (hey, i cheated, so what!). It runs a bit smoother, alot better, but a slow return to idle and the intake boots 'breathing' (spraying carb cleaner on the boots doesnt mess with the idle, however you can see the fluid getting pulled in through the cracks) makes me think the boots are actually bad. It now runs, crappily, but runs with the mixture screws all the way out (anymore and they'd literally fall out). Probably because of the vacuum leak. Sync is off (duh) mix is off (duh) and idle speed is off (duh) until the new boots get in. Im going to take sexy pictures of my boots, to make you all jealous, just you wait :D!

ACT THREE! (I sing the vision electric)
One of the inline fuses decided it was going to boil the plastic off of its ends. It literally looks like bubbled up melted plastic on the ends. The fuse is fine, but the ends are trashed (still working though, curious)

All my 'indicator'/'signal' lights quit working the other day. Oil, neutral, turn signals, horn, tach, illumination lights, temp guage all just up and quit. Curiously, the high beam light bulb still lit (important). After a bit of some intense head scratching, i got out my handy dandy haynes book and decided to confuse myself with the electrical diagrams. Everything that stopped working, all ran off of one fuse. The signal fuse.
Now, this isnt the melted fuse i mentioned, this is an inconspicuous otherwise normal looking glass fuse still actually in the fuse box. A quick check with the DVOM (still dont know wtf i'm doing with it, but makes me look smart probing at everything) said it should all work. Key on, nothing worked. A chance bump however, and CLICK everything started to work. Apparently there's bad connections in the fuse holder itself. Problem found.
The fuse box i got, is the totally wrong kind. It's a kind of distribution block, with a common power terminal, and fused grounds. I need a one wire in one wire out type affair. I'm looking at either replacing the fuse holders in the stock box, replacing the box with an ATC type affair, or going to bad-ass automatic resetting circuit breakers (a-la harley davidson) but according to the HD supplier catolog, one of the 10a ones is 12 bucks (lol yeah, i know.) so its off to the interwebs to find something.

Epilogue (much to be done)
I rate today a 6/10. Work completed yes, but needlessly pissed off and frustrated over the master cylinder.

[h2olawyer]

You seem to be catching up with the issues.  Kick back & relax now - it is not a good idea to work on things in a bad mood (either you or the object of your efforts).  Sounds like the brake is good to go & the carb boots sound like they will be the answer.

As for the electrics, you can get individual inline fuse holders (modern type) at any auto parts store.  Solder them in & use shrink tubing.  Then just tape them down to the area where the old fuse box used to live.

I have replaced just one fuse in my fuseblock that way.  The others are still working OK for now.  (knocking heavily on wood)

Sounds like the fuse block you got is the same type I used for my power distribution center in the fairing.  Works great for that, but I can see where it would be a problem for replacing the original fuse box.

H₂O

[inanecathode]

i want this :
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Products/ProductDetail.asp?pcode=A/EFBB4T&cls=MSPORT
pretty bad. Its like a stock replacement of what i have. I don't quite like the look of the inline fuses, just looks too ratty for me (no judgment on anyone of course)
The only place i can find anything like that is just that, and its on a UK store. Anyone have any ideas? It'd be close to 30 dollars shipping. If noone can find anything like that i guess i could go to inline but, they're so unclean :o

[h2olawyer]

You mean like the middle one here:

www.easternbeaver.com/Home/Main/Products/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html

They aren't cheap, but they're on this side of the pond!

H₂O

[Night Vision]

 $11.95 is cheaper than the Litlefuse boxes at Pep Boys that were $15.95 back when you could find them

[inanecathode]

Nope, more like this
http://www.action-electronics.com/fuses.htm
Exactly what i'm looking for. Side entry blade fuse holder. Just this side of 10 bucks including shipping :D!
First class mail because it's so light

[Night Vision]

yeah that Beaver Boy wants $70 to ship something that costs $0.01-$9.99 WTF

[inanecathode]

Aye, for the longest time just now i couldnt find a side entry fuse box, cept one over the pond they wanted 40 bucks to ship for :o

[Night Vision]

nice find... I put it in the Parts Resources under F for Fuse Box

[h2olawyer]

Eastern Beaver's shipping is hard to understand.  For low $ values, shipping is 70% of the cost.  As dollar values rise, the % charge for shipping decreases.  He does NOT charge $70 for shipping under $10 of merchandise.  For $10, it would be $7.  All you have to do is read his shipping explanation closely.

H₂O

[inanecathode]

Woo! Got a donor (possibly second running) vision today. Coolest part? Tool pouch, full.

Anyhow, speaking of fork seals, what's entailed in doing these? What kind of 'special tool' do i need to make, anyone made one before?

Hopefully the boots come in today, having the v sit this long without running is making me nervous :o Anyway, regardless, the tank is coming off and getting painted. Probably will be vastly easier and nicer looking that painting the fairing pieces. Just random orbit sanding off the paint to bare metal, then brushing on the paint. Suppose i could do the front fender too at some point ^-^

[Brian Moffet]

Anyhow, speaking of fork seals, what's entailed in doing these? What kind of 'special tool' do i need to make, anyone made one before?

Take a look at the Haynes manual, it tells how to make a tool.  It cost me about 4 dollars for parts (a long bolt, and a couple of nuts)  I'd send you mine, but the shipping would cost more than making it  ::)

Brian

[inanecathode]

Man, i can't catch a break on this thing i swear! Touched the cover today, and it started raining. About an hour later it was calm enough to do a bit of sanding on the gas tank. Sand sand sand, got the whole thing when i noticed a couple unsanded parts, still black. Hit them real quick with the sander. Looked fine, then i looked back and it was black again. Wtf. Sanded it, and watched it this time, stayed sanded for a few seconds then turned dark again.
Sniffed it, gas :(
Leaky tank dammit >< just two spots on the left side of the tank in the corners. I've already mixed up a bit of epoxy to spread over the leaky areas, hopefully it'll hold for a week or so so i can go riding. I dont think i'll have time to por the tank, let alone wait for the kit to be shipped to me.
Anyhow, tank is sanded down, not to metal, but enough to give some teeth to the paint. Probably get started on the paint tomorrow, have to wait for the GD epoxy to set up ><

Update: Kwells has enlisted to help me on Project: F**KING LEAKY GASTANK DAMNIT! Planning on poring the thing.

[inanecathode]

Alright, por, no joy. They cant overnight ship the stuff, so thats out of the question.
My jb fix is freakin terrible, either its the humidity or the stuff is expired, but its still goey and sticky, totally un-set. Tube says it expired 2 years ago so.. maybe thats its.

[dj]

My jb fix is freakin terrible, either its the humidity or the stuff is expired, but its still goey and sticky, totally un-set. Tube says it expired 2 years ago so.. maybe thats its.

You just answered your own questions there Inane.  Expired 2 years ago...  get a new tube.  Inexpensive and half the trouble of trying to use outdate material.  ;D

[inanecathode]

Looks like a late night trip to town, i get off at 6 :D