New To The Vision (Not really anymore, but working it out)

[h2olawyer]

Lucky's warning to contact him prior to rebuilding is mainly for 83 carbs - due to their scarcity & the lack of replaceent parts should you goof something up.  However, if you have ANY questions on your 82 carbs, it's still a good idea to ask about it.  Many of us have some extra 82 carbs so finding replacement parts isn't nearly as big an issue.  However, its still wise to ask before damaging something because there will be a day when 82 parts are as scarce as the 83 parts are now.

H₂O

[inanecathode]

Carbs are together and ready to be installed! Accel pump definitely needs a new die-a-fragum, operating the accel pump with fuel in the rear bowl it won't pump. Once i open the throttle and operate the pump by hand it does start to work off the throttle actuation.
Naw kwells, i probably wont be riding this weekend, i have work and what not. I still have to install the carbs, make the bike run, check the charge voltage, change the final drive oil, replace the right hand mirror (mirror is broken off the mount :(), check the front brake fluid, replace the front pads, and last but not least replace the brake tensioner bolts. Oh, and get it registered and insured. And get a street helmet...

Tires are good though :D


PS Ceramic pads, uni air filter, and fram oil filter are on their way!

[inanecathode]

I think i found the fuel pump repair kit on keyster... im not sure if it's it though. And it looks like the accel pump diaphragm only comes in the carb rebuild kit, 27 dollars for a bunch of parts i dont need, and one i do. Anyone on here have any spare good accelerator pump diaphragms?

[h2olawyer]

I just might have a good accel pump diaphragm.  Need to go out to the garage and tear into one of the spares.  Won't guarantee anything, though.  Mine may all be as decrepit as the one you have.

H₂O

[Lucky]

I have a new diaphram you can have, send me your address.  also, make sure the well (small hole) on the other side of the pump (in the bowl) is CLEAN also, stick the tip of a dental pick in hole in the diaphram side of the pump & make sure the ball check isn't stuck.

you should be able to hear the ball check & weights move under the nozzles when you shake the carb, also the nozzles should be clear, if not, remove them & clean them out with a single strand of picture hanging wire, or the wire from one of those sewing needle threaders.

--Lucky

[inanecathode]

Aye, i poked the diaphragm side check ball with a needle, seemed free enough to me, but blasted it with CRC anyway, still had a bit of orange come out. Pulled both the accelerator shnozzles and cleaned out the passage beneath the best i could, when i shake the carbs i hear em rattling now :D didnt so much before.

Also, lucky, you're the man! Sending you a pm now.

[inanecathode]

Bling!

First. Lucky rocks. This dye-a-fragum is fan-diddly-tastic (aside from a moment of panic when i thought my diaphragm was triangular). You visionaries are true pals really. Without the parts you've all sent i'd be up a creek i tell ya (seriously, how would i have found out the starter nose seal is bad if i wasnt for browsing these forums, or repair it with the one that was sent to me!). This weekend looks cherry to put her back together. Just put the accel pump diaphragm in there, (somehow) install the carbs, and start thrashing. I've got two fully cooked, er i mean, charged batteries and an itch to hear this bike rumble. I've also gotten my airfilter (SPONGE!? They havent put sponge filters on bikes for... eons? (it IS a uni filter though...)) Oil filter, and brake pads (slowing down is for sissies anyway... merely asthetic)

In other news, looks like my dad is getting a 1976 goldwing with a burnt up clutch for 500 bucks. Anyone ever put a clutch into a goldwing? Figure just remove the radiator and push the engine forward off the tranny... Not sure how they set up the clutches in longitudinal mounted engines like this, or of this size, whether its a clutch pack or a single disk or what....

[inanecathode]

Turns out you just take off the rear tire and the mufflers. It looks cherry, 20k real miles, pegs hardly warn, been garaged its entire life :D


furthermore.


ITS ALIIIIIIVE! Threw the carbs on, filled up the bowls, got the accelerator pumps going, with a few pops and gurgles it fired right up. Idled perfectly, reved up beautifully. Sounds freakin awesome guys, never heard a bike like this run before.  ;D ;D ;D ;D
My to do list now:

• Check charging voltage
  Check oil level
  Change differential final drive oil
  Get a right hand mirror (just the glass part that threads onto the stalk)
  Check and or replace front brake fluid
  Install new front brake pads
  Possibly look into a volt meter
  BRAKE TENSIONER BOLTS!
  Register, insure
  

That being said, i have a few questions:

• What kind of final drive oil do yall use?
  What kind of brake fluid should i use? (thinking dot 3)
  How do i go about installing a volt meter?

I'm TOTALLY jazzed now. I'm gonna make the ROV meet :D!

[h2olawyer]

Great news on both bike fronts!

I use Bel-Ray 80w-90 Hypoid Gear Oil (aka Gear Saver).  Yamaha recommends 80w Hypoid.  All the fluids & lubes, except for coolant, in my Silver bike are Bel-Ray.  Just had good luck with that brand in my dirt bike so I continue to use it.  I used Yamalube oil for years but now use Bel-Ray 0w-40 EXS full synthetic in the engine.

I have Bel-Ray dot4 brake fluid.  No particular reason other than when I installed the dual discs & braided stainless lines, I knew I was starting with an entirely clean system.  Dot4 will withstand a little higher temperature & absorb a little less water over time than dot3, but the differences are negligible.  Dot3 works just fine.  Make sure it is new, though.

To install a voltmeter, tap into a wire that's hot when the key is on.  Use that for the positive side of the gauge.  For the negative, find a spot to ground it or even go direct to battery negative.  I have mine hooked into an auxilliary fuse block located up in the fairing, mounted to the fairing bracket.  Also have a ground strip located there.  Ran a wire direct from the battery to the fuse block and installed a 40A relay, using the license plate light wires as the relay trigger.  That way, the auxilliary block turns on & off with the key.  The ground strip is wired directly to the battery.  The power center gives me 5 or 6 extra circuits.  I've currently got the auxilliary lights, voltmeter and power port for the helmet camera wired through it.  Will be adding heated grips later and may make an additional hookup for heated clothing as well.

The voltmeter will be most accurate if you can hook it up avoiding the bike's original wiring harness.  You can use larger wire and it doesn;t compete for power.  When I had it hooked up in a circuit inside the headlight bucket, it read about 2 volts low.  Now, through the power center, it reads very close to what my digital voltmeter displays right at the battery posts.  Some volt gauges are adjustable to compensate for the variations as well.

Hope the hints help.  As for fluids, use whatever you like.  There are as many opinions on oils as there are riders.  Just make sure you don't use one with a friction modifier or your clutch will slip.  Some full synthetics can cause clutch slippage as well.  A friend with a Venture used Royal Purple synth oil and experienced clutch slippage.  Went to Bel-Ray and it went away.  I don't like using the cheapest available (unless it is a well known brand on sale) but that's just for my own peace of mind.  It normally doesn't cost a lot more to use good quality lubricants - especially on the maintenance schedule I'm on with riding under 3,000 miles per year these days.  That puts the engine oil at two changes per year - but I normally go to a semi synth or dino oil for the winter storage period, so I have been changing mine in March, July and November.  I may get a ride in here & there from November to March, but won't normally get more than 100 miles on the "storage" oil.

H₂O

[inanecathode]

Are you f'ing serious? (to the bike) the freakin brake pads are too thick. I've sucked the piston back into the caliper, and the fixed (not the one on the piston side) is too thick to allow the rotor to clear both the pad and the caliper itself. It's getting stuck on this little tab of metal that sticks out a bit from the caliper where the rotor is supposed to spin by.
Any reason why i shouldnt start sanding down the fixed pad?

Edit: I am dumb. Apparently in my quest for the holy grail of finding a part bad straight out of the factory, i forgot that the caliper is mounted on sliders. Solution? Slide the caliper over.
Vision: 226 Me: 0

[inanecathode]

WOO! First ride! Took a spin around the subdivision today, one thing to note: OMG IT'S NOT A DUAL SPORT! Dirt roads. Mud. Yeah, didnt lay it over but, yikes.
Raises more questions than answers really:
Tach doesnt work?
Horn doesnt work?
Neutral light doesnt work?
High beam light... does work?
Turn signals don't work?
Brake lights don't work?
This is really weird, because i could have sworn that all of the above (save for maybe the tach) did work when i first got it... Definitely the horn worked, i know that. Anyone have any clues? Or tips for testing? (Maybe h2o or kwells feels like a ride up here soon to help... ;D)

First off, the most annoying thing. Something is cocked up with my throttle cable. It idles at the regular speed only if i reach in and hold the throttle lever onto it's stop. If i pop the throttle up a bit and return it, it won't go back to idle and stays at pretty high rpm what's worse is it steadily creeps upward in rpm until i push the throttle lever down against it's stop. As you can tell, the throttle cable/grip isnt letting the throttle return. It looks kinda bent up down near the throttle lever where it attaches, and the grip is sticking in some places, and down right rotating around the handlebar at some points.
Second off, somethings still screwy with the carbs (or ignition really now that i think about it, carbs don't act this regular). When i goose the throttle pretty hard it stumbles a bit, sometimes doesnt even accelerate, misfires like crazy, but if i get on it gently and keep the throttle under 25% application it accelerates nicely. Once it gets to a certain rpm (not sure which, tach not working grrr) it just wont rev any higher (pretty sure it's not the red line) it gets real... blatty? i guess? Sounds like its only running off one cylinder maybe. Sounds like a lawnmower does when you try to peg it with the choke engaged if that helps.

I havent looked at the plugs yet, or the electrical, both because i wanted it to run first, period, and i'm total crap with electrical systems.

Questions comments concerns?

P.S. Really, if one of you rov'ers isnt doing anything tonight (sunday) i wouldnt mind if i was paid a visit ;D Perhaps lend your brilliant vision vision to help a young vision welp in need :D


Edit: Found a vacuum leak, one so far now. The stupid petcock control vacuum line (yamaha: "I know! Lets put non-fuel grade hose, next to a source of fuel! Brilliant!") After spraying some carb cleaner around the fitting the bike stumbles a bit, and i can here the leak g oing "pft pft pft pft pft" when it gets wet.

Edit2: Charging voltage is fan diddly tastic, steady 14.22 volts :D

[YellowJacket!]

Regarding the throttle Check you YICS for leaks and also check for vacuum leaks.  Also, as I found out, the throttle cable is VERY finicky about how it is routed.  Anything but thr right way will result in some sort of binding.
If everything up front is not lighting up, check your connections in the headlight bucket...then double check them.  Also, check your fuse block under the seat.  Mine was corroded and one of the clips was holding the fuse in place but was not making good contact.

Welcome to the world of RIDERS of Vision.....Its fun to be a rider now, huh.  ;D

David

[YellowJacket!]

Edit: Found a vacuum leak, one so far now. The stupid petcock control vacuum line (yamaha: "I know! Lets put non-fuel grade hose, next to a source of fuel! Brilliant!") After spraying some carb cleaner around the fitting the bike stumbles a bit, and i can here the leak g oing "pft pft pft pft pft" when it gets wet.

Edit2: Charging voltage is fan diddly tastic, steady 14.22 volts :D

Great minds think alike!  Looks like you found one of my suggestions while I was typing it.  ;D

David

[Night Vision]

carbs: since you took them apart and cleaned them, did you sync then after you put them back on?
throttle: lube cable, clean lube/throttle slide on hand grip, check routing.
electrics: check fuses, pull relays and clean all connectors.

a neglected Vision will still be a negelected Vision unless you go through all systems hoses etc and clean / check for functionality...

for example: say someone puts in a new starter nose seal... maybe they sand and shine the cable end going to the starter, how about the other end going to the starter solenoid? 

[inanecathode]

carbs: since you took them apart and cleaned them, did you sync then after you put them back on? No
throttle: lube cable, clean lube/throttle slide on hand grip, check routing. Thouroughly soaked the cable with silicone, have to still do the slider
electrics: check fuses, pull relays and clean all connectors. Will do :D

a neglected Vision will still be a negelected Vision unless you go through all systems hoses etc and clean / check for functionality...

for example: say someone puts in a new starter nose seal... maybe they sand and shine the cable end going to the starter, how about the other end going to the starter solenoid? :-X mmmmmm no, i sure didnt


As far as being an actual 'rider' of vision, i can say that i can feel theres a tonne of oomph there for the grabbing, just has to be tuned right. Probably due to watching the throttle instead of everything else, i almost couldnt make a hill due to not shifting down  :x. The vision sure handles differently than my dualsport, thats for sure. Oh, and it doesnt have knobbies. Kinda forgot that at one point. Got 1/4 into a turn and remembered "oh bugger, street tires". Also, the starting for this bike is weird, couldnt get it to start for the longest time until i just let go of the throttle and let the choke out. For some reason it didnt respond to pumping the throttle (probably flooded)

Ouch *bandaids finger* i think i'll take out the plugs when its cooled off a bit... Next projects:
Check and clean all fuses/relays
Replace crispy petcock vacuum hose
Sync carbs (A) Don't know how B) scary process, only experience with syncing was a goldwing with bad sync :o)
Put a nut on the engine mount bolt ( :o :o :o)


Edit: Whoa, wait. Theres no yikes on my bike!? I thought when you guys meant yikes chamber you meant the little box that the coolant lines go into. Looking at the picture in the haynes manual, where there should be the yikes, i have nothing, just open space. Theres a couple plugged vacuum nipples on the intake boots or near there that i think are supposed to go to the yikes... Can the vision even run right without this?

[Brian Moffet]

The YICS tubes go into the heads, not the carb intake boots (I assume it's the same for an 82).  Many people run with them capped off and no YICS.  There is controversy (  ;D ) on whether the YICS does anything.

That being said, I still have mine

Brian

[YellowJacket!]

Edit: Whoa, wait. Theres no yikes on my bike!? I thought when you guys meant yikes chamber you meant the little box that the coolant lines go into. Looking at the picture in the haynes manual, where there should be the yikes, i have nothing, just open space. Theres a couple plugged vacuum nipples on the intake boots or near there that i think are supposed to go to the yikes... Can the vision even run right without this?

Yikes!  no YICS!  I have ridden mine with, without and with a leaky one.  With a sealed YICS I can feel a big difference in how the bike runs...much better.  With a leaky one, it "hunts" for a stable idle, boggs down and runs like crap.  With no YICS, it feels mushy and does not accelerate well.

The YICS ports are on the lower part of each cylinder housing.  It looks like a nipple adapter sticking out of the cylinder.  It could be either capped or have the hose attached with a plug in it.  Check to see if someone ran a hose between both ports.  It will cause problems if its done that way. If you are not running a YICS, each port should be individually plugged.

David

[inanecathode]

Yeah, they're both individually capped. I'm kinda neutral on the yikes thing, if it accelerates ok, and can keep up with traffic i don't mind much.
I've searched and searched for the cheapo syncing device linked on the forums (i know its here somewhere)
I've also had a brain wave. The throttle cable and slide work fine, but its adjusted all the way in. Is there an adjustment at the carb end of the throttle that'll allow me to move the cable towards the throtlle lever a bit? Seems real odd to me that the throttle cable is adjusted too tight, and the adjustment is turned all the way in. Off the top of my head, maybe i have a cable stay reversed, or crud in it or something.

Theres a yellow/black wire clipped at the TCI box, that's the rev limiter right?

[Brian Moffet]

Theres a yellow/black wire clipped at the TCI box, that's the rev limiter right?

Yup, the yellow with black wire is rev-limiter.

[h2olawyer]

The el-cheapo manometer is here:  www.xz550.com/art_files/4dollarmano.jpeg

There is an idle adjustment at the carbs.  Located aft of the throttle cable attachment.  If you need to have it screwed in very far to make it idle, there's still some issues with your carbs.  When it is screwed in too far, the bike takes forever to return to idle.  Your carb problems could be crud, mixture, synch or (more likely) a combination of them.  I had to dip my carbs twice the first time I tried to rebuild them.  The first time through, I got most of the gunk out, but didn't have this forum to get all the good info about making sure they are surgical theater clean, and how to get them that way.  Also didn't have a fuel filter inline at the time.

If my headache goes away in the next couple hours, I may be able to get up to see how you're coming along - but I wouldn't count on it today.

H₂O