New To The Vision (Not really anymore, but working it out)

[inanecathode]

Looking pretty shiny already - at least the Pennzoil bottle reflects nicely.

H₂O

Yupperz! The dust looking stuff is just that, dust.

[Aelwulf]

not going to find a ready to use tank for cheap. 

This is one available but is going to need some work as well

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/82-Yamaha-Vision-XZ550-XZ-550-Fuel-Gas-Tank_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35586QQihZ009QQitemZ190111586376QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Put a bid on it just to see.  Not going much higher than it is now though.  Also asked about the side panels but then saw the prices he wants for 'em in different auctions.  It doesn't look like he has the battery cover (least not anymore), wants $20 just for the other large cover and $30 I think it was for the two small thin ones under the seat. :P No thanks there.

[inanecathode]

Picking up the fairing lowers and body tomorrow. Barring bad weather, tomorrow will be painting day. Hopefully it'll rain after they're cured so i can... WET SAND!
yuk yuk yuk

[inanecathode]

One phrase: Oh for F*CKS sake.
Pieces i got back were stripped alright, right down to the WORST excuse for a gel coat i've ever seen. Its totally pitted, holy, cracked all over (gel coat, not the fiber glass). I spent most of today gassing myself with bondo and filling in all the holes/cracks/damage i could find. I'm 70 percent happy with the job i did, and i hope the smaller holes i left will get filled in with paint.
Onto even MORE happy stuff!
I brought the cb750 i bought home, MISTAKE. Miss V is jealous now, i fired it up to get it synced right and the mixtures set, and its just not running right at all:
- It takes a long long time to come down off of 3000rpm when i blip the throttle
- Once down around 1500 rpm, the throttle stop adjustment seems to do absolutely nothing to the idle speed
- It might just be cause i have bad hearing perception, but the mixture screws dont seem to be doing anything unless they're at the very extremes of the adjustments. Case in point, i can unscrew the front carb mixture screw ALL THE WAY OUT and it won't stumble
- The V burnt me more times than i can count
- The idle problem seemed to get a bit better when i took the syncing tool off, so i trimmed back the stretched out ends of the hoses a bit, don't even get me started on how hard it is to sync this thing now, i can't get them to level out at all, one will climb way way up, i'll blip the throttle, and it'll go shooting up the other way. When i adjust the sync rod one way the idle gets lower and stumbly, when i adjust the other way the rpm's climb rapidly.
- Periodically the rpms will just climb and climb, up to 4k rpm without any user input

Any suggestions? I tried looking for a vacuum leak with whatever carb cleaner i had leftover, and i dont think i spotted anything, i cant tell if the rpms rise because of the cleaner or they rise because it's seeking a bit.

part two:
I got the skinny side cover and master cylinder screws from lou today (thanks lou!), and the brake parts from tiger (thanks tiger!).

[Lucky]

you have a BIG vacuume leak, probably the YICS, but check everything.

[inanecathode]

Aye no yics hooked up yet, i squirted carb cleaner all over and didnt hear a huge change in rpm. Any other places i should look in particular?

[h2olawyer]

You did hook the vacuum lines back to where the manoeter was connected, right?  Did it idle OK then?  Wonder if there may be a leak in the manometer tubing?

Keep looking over all the vacuum lines to make sure everything is connected.  Also, make sure the YICS caps are not leaking.

Couldn't tell for sure if you were talking about the CB or the V with the problems.  Told you the V could be a jealous mistress!   :D

H₂O

[inanecathode]

I know :( unfortunate it is!
I think it may be the caps leaking, i know for sure the manometer tube is leaking, the idle issue got better after i unhooked it and plugged the pet cock back in and the plug on the other side.
I suppose i'll just replace the caps, i'm pretty sure the intake manifolds arent leaking, then again its hard for me to hear the changes in rpm...

[inanecathode]

Ick!
I can't find the vacuum leak :/ Is it really leaking though? It runs great other than the slow return to idle from 3k (also have a problem, it doesnt like WOT off of idle, i have to kinda coax it up to 3k rpm, from there WOT gives me near instant rpm response)
I tried carb cleaner EVERYWHERE i could reach, didnt hear a change in idle. I havent taken the tank off again yet, perhaps the vacuum flapper is leaking. I do know that theres some real hard vacuum lines i need to replace, fuel pump being one of them.
On a negetive pressure system like this, should i be putting hose clamps on every line/cap i can find, screw type or just the spring type?

[Night Vision]

save me the trouble of searching 11 pages of this thread...

have you totally disassembled the carbs and dipped them at least once?

did you clean all of the passages with an appropriate sized wire?

does moving your choke lever do anything when it's running?

do your choke plungers retract all the way?

what's the average wing velocity of a unladen african swallow?

[inanecathode]

save me the trouble of searching 11 pages of this thread... K

have you totally disassembled the carbs and dipped them at least once? Didnt dip, but cleaned VERY thouroughly with crc

did you clean all of the passages with an appropriate sized wire? Nope, didnt want to either, i've ruined jets with even brass wire before :o

does moving your choke lever do anything when it's running? Yes, idles higher when it's half applied, kills it when it's fully applied

do your choke plungers retract all the way? yes

what's the average wing velocity of a unladen african swallow? 42

Went to start it this morning (pretty cold, probably 50 degrees or so) wouldnt start wouldnt start, turned the choke all the way off, suddenly it started alot better :o

I'm getting a vacuum cap set and a handful of clamps/new hoses. All new hoses, all new clamps.

[Brian Moffet]

Yes, idles higher when it's half applied, kills it when it's fully applied
Went to start it this morning (pretty cold, probably 50 degrees or so) wouldnt start wouldnt start, turned the choke all the way off, suddenly it started alot better :o

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but these two items sound like the bike is running too rich, not too lean.  A Vacuum leak would cause the bike to run too lean. 

Brian

[Ken Williams]

I have experienced a problem that caused unwillingness to return to idle.  The cause was hard deposits in the bleed holes located in the carb bore wall, adjacent to the throttle plate in the closed position.  The fix was breaking off the deposits by running a wire through the holes.  My carb cleaning technique was insufficient to remove these deposits without usage of a wire. 

I believe unwillingness to return to idle indicates a lean condition. 

[Night Vision]

I have experienced a problem that caused unwillingness to return to idle.  The cause was hard deposits in the bleed holes located in the carb bore wall, adjacent to the throttle plate in the closed position.  The fix was breaking off the deposits by running a wire through the holes.  My carb cleaning technique was insufficient to remove these deposits without usage of a wire. 

I believe unwillingness to return to idle indicates a lean condition. 

I missed those tiny bleed holes and the choke supply circut also the first time around. The idle increasing when the choke is partly applied would also indicate its running lean... BUT

Don't be a "SillyCathode" you are chasing your tail trying to tune carbs that aren't spotless...
get a six pack of guitar strings and clean dem carb passages. The jets come out so that is not a valid excuse...
and the correct answer is 24

[Aelwulf]

and the correct answer is 24

I thought it was 42? ;)

[Night Vision]

and the correct answer is 24

I thought it was 42? ;)

I should have clarified the answer was to be in mph not km/h...

The airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow is roughly 11 meters per second, or 24 miles per hour, beating its wings 7-9 times per second. And a 5 ounce bird cannot carry a one pound coconut


you may be thinking of an unladen European swallow, which tops out at 42 km/h

[h2olawyer]

Ok - now that the airspeed velocity of the unladen swallow is answered, what is your favourite colour?   ;D

H₂O

[Night Vision]

Ok - now that the airspeed velocity of the unladen swallow is answered, what is your favourite colour?   ;D

H₂O

3

[inanecathode]

Lol!
*Applies judicious usage of forum rudder*

So the moral of the story, is i should take the carbs *back* out again, and dip them?
About the dipping:
What is EVERY rubber/fiber/dissolvable piece i need to remove? I'm seriously paranoid about destroying internal components. After i take the  float bowl drain screw out and the float/needle assembly, are there anymore o-rings etc i need to worry about? Will carb dipping stuff remove hard deposits (worried im going to damage or miss passages, which ones in particular should i be looking for)?
I'm off to get a vacuum cap set, clamps, and some carb cleaner and go to work on this thing before i go taking stuff apart again :o

On a side note, anyone ever done fork seals before? Any good faqage on the subject?

Part two!
The extra pair of righteous bags have been successfully delivered to aelwulf, and after a brief visit with him and samsr and samsr's wonderful garage-o-parts i'm several pounds heavier in parts:
1 Clutch switch (dont ask how i know mine is broken, it involves a freshly painted harley chopper, a glass case, and a 82 vision starter)
1 Seat pan with bits of foam (project actually, plan on making a solo seat)
1 End body cap, tail light piece (related to the above, plan on (samsr's suggestion) making a fairing type deal that blends the end cap and the rear of the seat by both not looking totally stupid, and not looking cafe-ey)
2 Rear brake springs (brake switch spring, brake tensioner spring)
2 Hinge pins (score!)

Drive to and back from fountain sucked really, pretty heavy rain, low clouds, highly reflective road surface. No fun.
Happy to report that both aelwulf and samsr are totally sane, all together stable individuals... Cept the whole 'owning a V' part...

[Night Vision]

So the moral of the story, is i should take the carbs *back* out again, and dip them?
I would

About the dipping:
What is EVERY rubber/fiber/dissolvable piece i need to remove? I'm seriously paranoid about destroying internal components. After i take the  float bowl drain screw out and the float/needle assembly, are there anymore o-rings etc i need to worry about?
there are itsy-bitsy orings and washers at the ends of the pilot screws. don't lose them. you may need a paper clip or wire to get the orings out.

Will carb dipping stuff remove hard deposits (worried im going to damage or miss passages, which ones in particular should i be looking for)?

All of them! it's pretty intuitve once you get in there and start poking around. the only real tricky ones / easy to miss are the tiny air bleed holes near the butterflies and the choke circut supply passage. search canandian lou's post on the latter

I'm off to get a vacuum cap set, clamps, and some carb cleaner and go to work on this thing before i go taking stuff apart again :o

might as well try so techtron too if you want to go that route

On a side note, anyone ever done fork seals before? Any good faqage on the subject?

yes, they are easy and covered well in the Haynes manual