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RE-Painting

Started by inanecathode, May 04, 2007, 07:06:49 PM

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GT @ oh.

Acually.... Wyoming has terrain.... think Yellowstone... so.... more like Nebraska or Kansas.I know you don't get out of the chocolate factory much ;D :D ;D :D....but I would still love to have you paint my bike.......and my truck....and my other truck.....and my car......and my lawn mower....and my...well you get the idea.

dj

Any more pics of your progress?
2008 Honda Rebel (Black)

inanecathode

#42
Aye no pics still, dad still has camera...
I've now got a roof over my work area, i was able to convince my former boss to let me use the (empty) body shop behind the shop i used to work at. I've got access to more sandpaper i'll ever need, compressed air, the works. Sucks i'm using brush on paint though :o!
Ever have one of those "I wish i wish i hadn't have done that" moments? That was right about when i got the pieces back from the stripper. Word to the wise: If your paint job is smooth, just rough it up to give your paint some teeth, don't EVER under ANY circumstances strip it down to the gel coat. That gel coat is THE bubbliest, easiest to crack, hard to sand, bumpy, evil substance ever devised by man. I got the pieces back and the surface resembles a cut sponge, just holes and holes and pits and pits, plus this fairing apparently got pretty beat up in places, theres canyon wide stress fractures in the gel coat (fiberglass looks fine suprisingly) spidering out from many places.
I spent nearly all day filling in the pits, holes, and cracks. I'm fairly sure i got them all, also i'm fairly sure the resulting finish should hold up pretty good, here's crossing fingers right?
All the pieces are bondoed, sanded, and ready for painting. All i need to do is tape off the vent thats still attached to one side, remove the rest of the screws that hold the windscreen on, and hose the parts down good and clean all the sanding dust off. I also need to throw some wax on the finished piece i have and see if it'll shine up a bit better, the shine isnt as deep as i'd like it to be (not nearly as deep as event horizon :o:o!)

Observations:
Bondo smells really. really. really bad.
I could write a page and a half on how to use bondo right
Don't freakin strip fiberglass parts down that far, you'll make a WORLD of work for yourself
I'm kinda worried about the finishing job i did on the pieces, its *very* slightly wavy in places
I'm not really happy with myself at this point, should have listened to you guys/myself and just roughed up the paint

Question for the experienced:
Will putting the buffer and polishing compound on the finished piece more increase the shine anymore than it is (sorry about the lack of pictures at this point) or am i just chasing my tail. Also, i'm worried i'll burn through the paint if i polish it too much, is there a chace of this happening if i polish anymore?
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If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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h2olawyer

One learns best by doing.  In creating more work for yourself, you have acquired the rudimentary new body work skills.  wouldn't necessarily say the time was wasted, just that you could have been prepping & painting instead of sanding & filling today.  There are better brands of filler than Bondo available.  If you followed the directions closely, & you didn't have to lay it on very thick, it should work OK.  Reckon may chime in about what to use.

I just wish I could get a dry day or two while I'm home to paint the pumpkin!  I have to paint outdoors (in an area well screened from breezes).  I leave for race weekends on Thursdays, return late on Sundays.  Monday - Wednesday are all afternoon storms while Thursday - Sunday have been beautiful.   ::)    This weekend is the last one I'll be gone before the 25 year party, so I should be able to find time in the upcoming 3 weeks before that starts.

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

inanecathode

Find time fooooor?

I dunno, maybe its the bondo fumes getting to me, but i'm pretty bummed about my progress, it's been kind of a one step forward two step back, and i'm worried i'll end up with a crappy looking paint job anyway after all this hard work.
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If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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h2olawyer

However this one turns out, you can always do more work on it, fix the mistakes & do it right later, when you have more experience and access to more tools / compressor, etc.  The important thing is that you are trying & learning.  It will probably turn out OK for now - it will always look worse to you than it will to anybody else.

H2O
If you have an accident on a motorcycle, it's always your fault. Tough call, but it has to be that way. You're in the right, and dead -on a bike. The principle is not to have any accident. If you're involved in an an accident, it's because you did not anticipate. Then, by default, you failed.

inanecathode

#46
Lol thats true

Apparently according to the internets, noone has ever stripped a fairing down this far and repainted it from the fiberglass up. I'm a revolutionary!
Reading through various google results, its pretty hilarious how helpless some people are when their fairing gets chipped or scratched, specially some of the super bike people, selling the entire fairing and buying a new one being a pretty common solution.
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If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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inanecathode

Got my first coat on all the pieces. I REALLY wish i had a camera, document the process a bit better. Alot of this requires knowing what to look for, its kinda hard to describe how it's supposed to go on, but suffice to say your first couple coats look like CRAP going on, streaky, brush marks, and it doesnt actually cover what you're painting, more tint, the more coats you get the better it looks. Anyway, observations:
Looks like CRAP at the moment, all the body work colors showing through
Try spinning a wet fairing upper above your head trying to get that one spot
Something about the paint/elven magic that's on the cover i got from lou doesnt like paint sticking to it
This stuff is SO easy to work with
On the lowers, i only had to lightly load the brush once and it lasted the whole coverage
Laquer thinner removes the glue that holds the foam on foam brushes, food for thought

Pictures soon i promise!
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If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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dj

Quote from: inanecathode on May 22, 2007, 12:02:00 PM
Pictures soon i promise!

We will have to get together and hang you up by your toes if you don't start showing us your progress!   ;D
2008 Honda Rebel (Black)

inanecathode

#49
Uhg i know, i'm really bummed i dont have the pictures of how crappy this fairing looked stripped. Honestly, it looked like trash. I'll be able to take a picture of what the pieces look like with one coat dried on them, and what the plastic part looks like with the first sanding stage done, and one coat dried. I can also take a picture of the frame straightener i work next to, big as a damn bus i swear.
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If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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zore

tattooedtaz6 painted my monster bits for me and did a fantastic job.  Might be worth emailing him and see what he wants to do it.



Incedently, this is what can be done with rattle can.  Ofcourse, hot day, plus tank bag and a few refules = trashed.  I then went to a dupont base / clear.  The base is easy to put on, it's the clear that screws me every time.  By the time you are done adding up the materials and possible time reduing and fixing, almost worth paying someone to do it.





If I were you, I'd hit all the mechanical bits on the thing and get it running to a point that you are satisfied with it's performance.  That may make the decision of having it painted easier if it's running well.
1982 Yamaha XZ550
1995 Ducati M900

reckon

inanecathode:

I sent you an e-mail


"if it's stupid but it works, it's no longer stupid"

inanecathode

Pictuuuuuures!
Fairing after 2 coats and 400g wet sand, but before coat of paint:





Fairing after 2 coats and 400g wet sand and one coat of paint:





Side cover after 2 coats 400g wet sand, 2 coats and 800g wet sand, but before coat of paint:





Side cover after 2 coats 400g wet sand, 2 coats and 800g wet sand, and one coat of paint:





Hopefully all the yellow underplastic will come out, but see how it doesnt cover fully, just a heavy tint:





Hopefully this link works, video of the consistency of the paint you're looking for:





Last but not least, mister helper dog:

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If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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YellowJacket!

I love Cattledogs!  Arent they the greatest.  ;D

David


Living the dream - I am now a Physician Assistant!!   :-)

inanecathode

When they're not being evil :D
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If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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Sable

I still like the color! Looks good so far, the fairing looks like it's got an "orange peel" texture to it...  What do you plan on doing with the frame and the rest of the bike?

~John
1982 Yamaha Vision
1982 Motobecane 50V
1975 Kawasaki H-1
1972 Rokon Trailbreaker

inanecathode

Aye, the dreaded orange peel. It's hard to describe what the texture actually is like without being there, but it DOES look orange pealed, but its due to the undercoat sanding through in some places, not in others, so the orange peely look isnt actually textured, its how the undercoat gloss versus the actual paint gloss interact. Get me?
For the frame i'm going to just clean off the rusty places real good with a wire wheel, and brush on some rust prohibitive paint (black of course) The drive shaft needs a bit of lovin too, starting to rust pretty bad in some places.
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If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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reckon

Quote from: inanecathode on May 25, 2007, 05:16:01 PM
Aye, the dreaded orange peel. It's hard to describe what the texture actually is like without being there, but it DOES look orange pealed, but its due to the undercoat sanding through in some places, not in others, so the orange peely look isnt actually textured, its how the undercoat gloss versus the actual paint gloss interact. Get me?
For the frame i'm going to just clean off the rusty places real good with a wire wheel, and brush on some rust prohibitive paint (black of course) The drive shaft needs a bit of lovin too, starting to rust pretty bad in some places.


this is what PRIMER is for,...smoothing out the surface, and HIDING the multi-colored sanded part BEFORE you paint,.......you hit it with a coat, wait ten minutes (use a timer), then repeat until you have 4-5 coats (rattlecan primer), then wait a day, and sand it with 400,...THEN start painting

use red oxide or buff (looks tan) primer for anything red, yellow or white, use grey for every other color except black, and use black primer for black,..that way you HIDE whats underneath, and your topcoats (even rust-o-leum) will cover better, look more even, last longer, yada yada

it also gives the paint a nice smooth PORUS surface to soak into, making for great adhesion, even for just painting a house, or a little red wagon, PRIMER will make a HUGE difference.
"if it's stupid but it works, it's no longer stupid"

inanecathode

Aye, i'd probably use primer next time. Does primer also even out the surface? Or is there a special kind of thick primer?
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If you can't tell your friend to kiss your ass then they aren't a true friend.
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kwells

you will want to use some filler for that.  Sort of like mudding a wall.  aaahhh it all comes together.
...a vision is never complete.

www.wellsmoto.com