Vision making a new noise - help diagnose please

[h2olawyer]

When it's starting & running well, why worry?  The power isn't that low compared to the pumpkin - just have to be a little easier letting the clutch out from a dead stop.

H₂O

[Night Vision]

heh, heh... guilty as charged  :(  ..... two V's, 4 OEM coils/wires/caps

but, like H₂O, these were low mile and garaged bikes. not trailer queens, but not ravaged by sun, heat, abuse...

and like H₂O, said - This past Sunday was the best these V's ever ran!
well , he didn't say that exactly, but we did....

am I going to do caps wires and plugs on the project bike?
Absolutely, without question or hesitation...

[d0n]

Importaint:

if the noise goes away above 2500 rpm or so it's the starter clutch. if it doesn't go away at any rpm (in neutral in the driveway is fine to test) then it's the balancer shaft drive gear, driven gear, or both.

--Lucky

yes the noise goes away after 2k or so rpms.

[Tanno]

There is a loud ticking in my engine....it doesn't go away at any RPM, just a little drowned out by the exaust. I suspect valve lash is too much because the noise is only at the top of the engine.

Since I knew the entire history of this bike & it hasn't been giving any ignition troubles, I haven't had the need to do more than the checks to see if they're working properly.  Did those when I got it back on the road again 4 or 5 years ago.  Still starts & runs fine - but a weakened spark may be contributing to the slightly lower power I'm experiencing at RPMs under 5K - at least lower power compared to the Pumpkin at those RPMs.

The caps & wires on Pumpkin looked & tested as new.  Also a nice, strong spark.  Won't worry about those for now.

H₂O

Mine had a very bad hesitation from idle to about 3/4 throttle....no RPM difference. The only time it ran good was 3/4 - full throttle. I pulled the carbs and cleaned out. While doing this I noticed that the accel pump spring was collapsed about 1/4". I found several possible replacement springs at the HW store and got it to work for the full throttle range. Didn't find anything dirty, clogged, or varnished in the carbs. Put it all back together and now it runs MANY times better! I'm still going to change the plugs and other maintenance items I'm sure weren't done before.

Starter rebuild kit is still not in.. :( ...so..... my trips are limited for fear of a no start and have to push it. :(  BTW, I have no trouble push starting this thing by myself when it's warm. 4th gear works best, but 3rd has worked. I'm short (5'6") so, push starting while on the bike is out of the question unless I happen to be on a good hill when it descided not to start.

[d0n]

I can't imagine push starting my vision. It's cold blooded. Even on an 80 degree day it takes a couple minutes of on/off choking and creative throttling before it'll run well enough to drive away.

[dj]

I can't imagine push starting my vision. It's cold blooded. Even on an 80 degree day it takes a couple minutes of on/off choking and creative throttling before it'll run well enough to drive away.

Does it start right up, or do you have to push the botton a few time/hold it in for longer then normal?

On/off choking and creative throttling...  Sounds like you might have a situation where you have a small air leak somewhere until the engine heats up and seals it off... Not sure where you would look for something like that (exhaust gaskets by the engine maybe) but thats what it sounds like to me.  If you are having to mess with the choke and throttle a lot to get it to run good then you could be experiencing a mixture issue (either to much or not enough gas or air is getting in)

[Tanno]

I agree. Clean the carbs again. Mixture is off kilter. Idle is set too low. Accel pump leaking or just plain not working.

More info is needed to help fix that issue. Please tell exactly what you do and what happens from the moment you get to the bike.

Remember: The bike WILL flood if you throttle with engine not running....thanks to the accel pump. Key is not needed to operate.

[d0n]

If the noise goes away above 2500 rpms can I assume that the problem is not getting worse?

[dj]

If the noise goes away above 2500 rpms can I assume that the problem is not getting worse?

If their is a noise that goes away above 2500 rpms then it is most likely your starter clutch bolts are loose.  You need to fix this as soon as possible to help lessen the chance of damage to your starter clutch.  Not a lot of good used ones readily available and they are big $$$ to get new.

As long as nothing is cracked in your starter clutch the job can be done (yourself doing the labor) for under $40 if you have to by a puller for the flywheel.  The bolts wind up being under 2-3 dollars and the puller bolts are again around 2-3 dollars.  A puller will run you around 15-25 dollars.  Make sure you check this soon as you could be out lots more money if it gets worse.

[Tanno]

From previous posts that I've read.... DJ knows best!  ::)

[Aelwulf]

The plugs and caps are new on mine, the guy workin' on the bike looked at the wires and said they're still very good.  I have a set I ordered to replace 'em with just in case but for now with just the plugs & caps I'm getting near insta-starts so long as I don't let it sit more than a day or two without trickle-chargin' the battery.

[dj]

From previous posts that I've read.... DJ knows best!  ::)

You must have read my starter clutch "exploits" on my very long thread...  Doesn't it sound fun???

[Tanno]

Yup. ;) I'm looking forward to it. :-\

[dj]

Yup. ;) I'm looking forward to it. :-\

It's not to bad, once you know the proper way the puller is supposed to work.  Just make sure the puller foot is on the woodruff key, and if you need to use a bolt (if your puller doesn't have a flat foot) then make sure the bolt doesn't thread into the crank (make sure the head is big enough to sit on the key without touching the threads in the crank...)

Reread my "exploits" and don't make the same mistakes as me and you'll be done in under 2 hours instead of taking 3-4 weeks to finally get the flywheel off and then fix the damage that was caused in the process...

;D

[Tanno]

I've used pullers before, so I'm confused as to why one would want to "push" on the key? Isn't that key on the outside of the shaft that you're intending to push on?

Normally, one would install the puller to pull the pully/balancer/gear/flywheel/steering wheel and push on the shaft that it's mounted on. Any keys would be on the outside diameter of the shaft and intended to prevent spinning of the pully/gear/etc.. on the shaft. Now, can you see my thinking as to why pushing on the key would make no sence?

Am I missing something here?

[Night Vision]

dj knows better... you push against the crank with the puller.... he musta had a brain fart

[dj]

dj knows better... you push against the crank with the puller.... he musta had a brain fart

Unless something is not lined up properly the key and the end of the crank are going to be flush with each other.  So if you puller is pushing on the key it is also pushing on the crank.  idealy if you can find a bolt or puller foot that only sits on the end of the crank (without touching the threads if it is a bolt) then that is best, but is hard to find unless you are a good scrounger.

Just remember to have the puller foot or bolt that fits inside the center opening of the flywheel and it will be pushing on the proper place.