New 83 Front End For YellowJacket **NEW Probem**

[kwells]

but will it fit the presta valves?

[h2olawyer]

It should, but the tap may be more difficult to find.   ;D

After getting rid of the bicycle bearings in the steering neck, why would you want to put bicycle valves in for air forks?

H₂O

[YellowJacket!]

OK, Im stumped.  The retaining bolts in the bottom of the fork lowers are really turning out to be a pain.  I went out and got an 18 inch breaker bar with a 8mm hex nut on the end to try to loosen the darn things and they won't budge.  Are they reverse thread or something??  They are soaking in PB Blaster at the moment but they were not really corroded or anything.  Both caps kept them protected.
Any ideas??

Thanks,
David

Hey! I just realized that I broke 2000 posts!  ;D

[Brian Moffet]

I don't recall them being reversed thread, they should be normal threaded.  Corrosion can get in even though the caps are there, since if they are the bolts I'm thinking of, they compress the fork ends.  Moisture can get in from that compression area.

Can you point out which bolts you're talking about?

I think you're talking about the bolt that fit into the top fork of this photo, on the right side? (one fork only, or on both forks?)



Brian

[Night Vision]

they are factory locktite'd on... might want to try some heat? I'm not sure what that will do to the teflon sliders though....

[YellowJacket!]

the ones with the arrows. (thanks for the pics Brian)





David

[h2olawyer]

Definitely factory loctite & maybe done again if the forks were ever rebuilt.  Heat is the preferred method of breaking the loctite seal.  The PB may help if there is any internal corrosion.  Have you tried your impact driver?  It would be a 2 person job (one to hold the inner damper rod & one to use the driver).  Giving the bolt a few good raps could break it free.

H₂O

[YellowJacket!]

Definitely factory loctite & maybe done again if the forks were ever rebuilt.  Heat is the preferred method of breaking the loctite seal.  The PB may help if there is any internal corrosion.  Have you tried your impact driver?  It would be a 2 person job (one to hold the inner damper rod & one to use the driver).  Giving the bolt a few good raps could break it free.

H₂O

No impact driver and no money for one. :o  Brawny step-son is with his dad for the next 10 days so two person job will have to wait until me and Lucky can get together again.
I will try the heat to break down the locktite.
Thanks,

David

[h2olawyer]

Doesn't need to be a pneumatic impact - the hammer blow type should work just fine.  That's what I used the first time I rebuilt a set of V forks.  Glad I had the pneumatic tools for the next set!

H₂O

[Brian Moffet]

Those require a long bolt (see the haynes manual) to capture the top of the internal tube.  Once I had that attached, I was able to loosen those bolts with a bit of torque.  I assume you have the the damper-tube braced?  (part number 11H-23170-00-00 on the micro-fiche)

The part I'm talking about is the part right below the spring in this picture, with the very small spring on the right.  The tool (a long bolt with a couple of nuts) that the haynes manual tells how to make fits in the top of the damper-tube, where it flairs out.  The bolt you're tring to get out screws into the bottom (you can see it taper down a bit on the left side.)

Teflon should be able to handle the heat, especially since the sliders are at the other end of what you're trying to free up.

Brian  (you're welcome on the photos, I think what you see on my page is maybe 1/6th of the photos I took of the process.)

[YellowJacket!]

Im going to make the tool.  The bolt I'm trying to remove is the damper rod bolt.  From what I understand, the tool holds the damper rod while you are reassembling it.  I think rather than trying to have my son hold the fork, I'll find a vice like the manual shows, to hold it while I remove the bolt.

David

[Brian Moffet]

The tool also will hold the damper-tube when you're loosening it.  When I did it, my damper tube started spinning, the tool stopped it.

Brian

[YellowJacket!]

Im going to make the tool and get a vise.  There is just too much torque to try to get my son to hold it.  I don't want a stripped bolt or a kid with  a busted nose or black eye, so I'll do it right.

David

[Brian Moffet]

Oh yes, and when you put it back together, don't do what I did and put in part 9-30 (on the picture) upside down.  It doesn't work  ;)

Brian

[inanecathode]

I'd take the fork legs to a shop and ask them if you can use their impact for a few minutes. Guarantee it'll come off with an impact, plus no bloody noses, just vibes.

[YellowJacket!]

Well I had a little time to clean up some parts today and found a big problem.  Apparently whoever owned the parts before me must have dropped the right side caliper because the caliper slide is twisted.  Its bent pretty bad.  The caliper looks fine and aside from not being able to get the pad retention bolts out, all is OK.  But, the slideer is toast and without it, being the right side one, my 83 front end is on hold.

Anyone have a spare?

Thanks,

David

[YellowJacket!]

welllllll......it gets worse.  Lucky and I got the forks disassembled and the right side tube is bent.  Very bent.  Like a bananna bent.  Just couldn't tell when it was assembled.  No problem though since my tubes are straight and I can use them.  The next problem is the caliper slider is cracked.  Couldn't see it until it showed up as a shadow while we were heating it to bend it back into shape which we could not do.  Just couldn't get it to fit right.  Anyway though, I got the one off ebay and it should fit.  Looks like the parts came form a wrecked 83.  I paid for it with what was set aside for my paint job.  uggghhh.


David
David

[kwells]

You can get your money back for the damaged product your received.