Oil Light...Weather or more serious?

[acee125]

Now my bike is doing something similar to achie's! As I was riding to work this morning I think I noticed the light flicker when I was doing about 50mph. If it did it was just on long enough to get my attention. When I approached the next stop light about 1/8 mile away I noticed that the oil light would come on at about 1000 rpm and the bike didn't seem like it wanted to idle. The light would go off between 1300-1500 rpm. When I got to work she would idle fine at 1500 rpm and the light was off.

Now it was cold out this morning. Only about 32F and I didn't give her a whole lot of time to warm up. A little but not as much as I should have. 2 min maybe...? The oil level seems to be fine. The bike ran decent, a little more hesitation maybe, but for the most part it seemed ok.


This is only the 3rd or 4th day the bike has been ridden in 13 years. I've put about 100 miles on since I got her going. She has fresh oil. Sludge in the oil...? I live about 8 miles from my house. Do you think it's safe to drive home? Should I start it midway through the day and reassess? Was is just the cold weather?

[Walt_M.]

You might want to check the oil filter. When I got mine going after setting for 7-8 yrs, I put some cheap oil in it and got it good and warm to pick up what sludge it could then changed the oil and filter. The filter looked like crap!

[kwells]

yup...change the filter and oil again.

[achie]

hey acee125 does it make a loud clacking sound like as if there's no oil? I've clocked almost 1000 miles since I got my V.

[Rick G]

The only time I have seen the oil light (while I was riding ) was  after it  spun a rod bearing (the first time ) it was making a fairly heavy knocking sound  and  since I was in the middle of nowhere and I felt it was dead any way , I just kept going . after 15 miles or so , with the oil light flickering  and finally staying on  it climbed a really steep hill on one cylinder  and died at the top . I coasted in to town.  This was 4 years  ago and I just got around to tearing the engine down . The gear box is perfect  , but the crank  is toast . One rod is OK , and one rod from the second  crank is good , so I'm going to see it I can get it  reground
Both suffered from a  spun bearing . The first one was caused by  transmission fragments, the second is not so clear .  There was a lot of  gunk in the bottom  of the oil reservoir  and some small  iron fragments . I think  that if I install another engine, I'll flush it with 5 gallons of thinner or solvent, let it dry and  change the oil and filter  at least twice  at 20 mile intervals . The amount of crud in there was surprising!

[acee125]

What about using an automotive engine flush? One of the only potential problems I see would be the clutch. What do you guys think?

[Tiger]

What about using an automotive engine flush? One of the only potential problems I see would be the clutch. What do you guys think?

:) I would not reccomend  automotive engine flush...Try this method if you like...

:) Run your motor to warm the old oil, stop and drain the oil out...leave to drain for a wee while.

:) Replace drain plug.

:) To flush use: 1 x transmission fluid and 2 x cheapo engine oil...premix and refill engine.

:) Start her up and let her IDLE for 5 - 6 minutes, (DO NOT REV THE ENGINE!!!), and drain off the oil mix and    the oil filter.

:) Reinstall the drain plug, install new oil filter, refill with engine oil of your choice, (motorcycle suitable), start the old girl up and check for leak(s).

This is the method used to start Goldwings left standing for many year's, which I used/use on my Vision's. Cleans out all the crap, sludge and varnish off of the clutches... 8)

                         8).......TIGER....... 8)
p.s. Go prospecting in your old oil...see what, (metal, etc), came out!!!

[QBS]

Reasons why the oil pressure light comes on, assuming the engine has oil in it, listed in no particular order of alarm:

1.  Faulty oil pressure sending unit (pray that this is the reason)

2.  Faulty oil pressure sending unit electrical connection (pray that this is the reason)

3.  Faulty water pump side (right side of the engine while sitting on the bike)engine cover crankshaft oil seal(you may be in really deep stuff, seriously consider getting a Haynes manual and changing this seal before you touch the ignition key again, start praying)

4. #3 above...and...your rod and main bearings are toast, and maybe your crankshaft, too (stop praying for a miracle and start praying for a donor engine)

When the V oil pressure light is on, the probability is sadly pretty good that bad things have happened or are happening.

[acee125]

hey acee125 does it make a loud clacking sound like as if there's no oil? I've clocked almost 1000 miles since I got my V.

No, it sounds just like normal.

[inanecathode]

Reasons why the oil pressure light comes on, assuming the engine has oil in it, listed in no particular order of alarm:

1.  Faulty oil pressure sending unit (pray that this is the reason)

2.  Faulty oil pressure sending unit electrical connection (pray that this is the reason)

3.  Faulty water pump side (right side of the engine while sitting on the bike)engine cover crankshaft oil seal(you may be in really deep stuff, seriously consider getting a Haynes manual and changing this seal before you touch the ignition key again, start praying)

4. #3 above...and...your rod and main bearings are toast, and maybe your crankshaft, too (stop praying for a miracle and start praying for a donor engine)

When the V oil pressure light is on, the probability is sadly pretty good that bad things have happened or are happening.

Lets add a number 5, plugged up oil filter :)

[acee125]

What about using an automotive engine flush? One of the only potential problems I see would be the clutch. What do you guys think?

:) I would not recommend automotive engine flush...Try this method if you like...

:) Run your motor to warm the old oil, stop and drain the oil out...leave to drain for a wee while.

:) Replace drain plug.

:) To flush use: 1 x transmission fluid and 2 x cheapo engine oil...premix and refill engine.

:) Start her up and let her IDLE for 5 - 6 minutes, (DO NOT REV THE ENGINE!!!), and drain off the oil mix and    the oil filter.

:) Reinstall the drain plug, install new oil filter, refill with engine oil of your choice, (motorcycle suitable), start the old girl up and check for leak(s).

This is the method used to start Goldwings left standing for many year's, which I used/use on my Vision's. Cleans out all the crap, sludge and varnish off of the clutches... 8)

                         8).......TIGER....... 8)
p.s. Go prospecting in your old oil...see what, (metal, etc), came out!!!

So after I drain the oil, I leave the possibly plugged up oil filter in place and just add the ATF/oil mix and run her for a while. Then drain. Then replace the oil filter and add fresh motorcycle oil....?

The ATF and cheapo car oil don't hurt the clutch at all? You've done this?

I don't question you to challenge your methods, I'm just ignorant and looking to learn.

ACE

[Tiger]

 :) There is no harm in questioning someone's method/technique, that is how we all learn. Yes, this is a method I use to clean out the motor, it works just like a good laxative...cleans out all the s**t :D :D :D :D :D... ;)

Given your problem, I think I would drain the original oil and change out the old oil filter, top up with the oil mix, run/drain/change filter and refill with fresh oil...just in case you do have a crappy filter in there ;)

I haven't had any problems with clutches, etc. If anything, the clutch should work better as the oil mix helps de-varnish the plates.

                                      8)........TIGER........ 8)

[tachrev]

ATF won't hurt the clutches.  I would use Type-F, it has all the detergents you want to clean out the sludge, but less or no friction modifiers that newer ATF's have.

Friction Modifiers, for those that are wondering, cause the clutches to slip a little to smooth engagement in new automatics.

These bikes have a wet clutch just like and automatic transmission, so putting a little ATF in the oil will not hurt the clutches.  We use the same thing to clean out car engines are well.  Works great.

[gph]

I did the transmission fluid/cheap oil plus diesel worked great. I also made up a temporary oil pressure gauge unit I can screw in to see what the pressure really is. Might be the place to start.