Valve adjustments are for masochists

[Lucky]

I did mine today, and man am I sore!! Jeeze i'm only 40!.... (ok, so I act like i'm thirteen)

All except one were a shim off.

what I don't get is this for example:

front left exhaust valve: (spec is .16 -.20mm)
Measured clearance: .13mm
installed shim: 275
Required shim:265
new clearance: .18

Now if I'm thinking about this right, the wear points are what? the valve seats?

so as the seats wear the valve recedes into the head reducing clearance correct?

I had one intake valve I didn't have the correct shim for:
measured = .07
installed = 250
required 245 (didn't have)

thankfully this is on the rear cyl so getting to it won't be as big a pain as the front (even more so with the fairing frame having to come off...)

btw, i used the haynes specs
--Lucky

[admin]

yes, you are correct on the wear point, although the
valves themselves will also have some wear on the face.

I'm due to check my clearances also, guess I'd better start collecting some shims...

-Ron

[Humber]

foooking valve job...... I did my front cylinder today and it was a big hughhhhh......... ?:P

Taking the valve cover off the head is a pain in the asssss....

[Lucky]

Especially with a fairing huh?  ;D
now you know why you want to do the front first.
I found pulling the shock makes the rear a lot easier.

[Humber]

I stripped the whole bike, the worst is to take the cover off and then to place it in its place... the cooling hose is in the way.... I think next time I will get rid of radiator to save my nerves.....

[Walt_M.]

Anyone remember when I suggested it would be easier to just pull the engine to do the valves?

[Lucky]

I still wouldn't say that.  Everything's hardest the first time around, lol

[jasonm.]

check your math. Front left did not need a 2.65   It was a 2.70 it needed....that would put it at .18mm If it has a 2.65 now then you are at .23mm  I don't know what your problem is. The rears require the carbs removed(easy). The front , removal of the radiator is optional.  But still easier than the new bikes needing removal of the cams.

[ArrrGeee]

Interesting on the haynes spec because the factory manual calls for .021-.025 for an exhaust valve.
I don't own a haynes manual so I can't comment on the listing.
either that or you're quoting intake specs.
I didn't notice the discrepency before.

just remember guys, that if you set your exhaust valve clearances too tight, you will burn a valve pretty quickly, and that can get expensive.

The chart in the shop manual is pretty straightforward in that you find your clearance and your installed shim, intersect the two and it tells you what the target shim should be.

lastly, Lucky my intake charts says that you should be putting in a 240 not a 245 for that intake valve.

-Ron

[Lucky]

Man, the original post was over a month ago & y'all just getting around to reading it? I went by the Haynes Chart, I'd been told it corrected the figures in the OEM manual.  anyway, it's running better than ever & i'm leaving well enough alone.

[Humber]

I did it twice according to haynes and it runs OK, so I think 016 - 021 is what u need. Mine EX are set on 0,18 at the moment..

I have about 40 shims and among all of them I find a lot of 260s, 265, to less extent 250 and 255, a lot of unmarked shims and one 245.

By the way, not all of 250 are in fact 250.. some of them are thinner and u can easily use them as 245, that's what I did on my EX cam on the front.

And to hell, unfortunately I broke the thread at?the shaft cap bolt, the one that keeps the upper slider, I will have to rethread it to 7 mm hole and  I am quite sure that the thread must have been weakened by the previous valve doer (which was then at service) since I torqued all the bolts according to specifications - 8NM, and this one failed... seems like the thread was already gone...