Cleaning up housings and other aluminum parts

[Kevin]

What Rick said.  ;)

[67GTO]

What Rick said ;) (do you hear an echo?)

[Cdnlouie]

Like Rick said.... that's another echo  ;).

Kevin: FYI - the wheels are clearcoated and you have to strip it before you can polish them, but if you are careful you can use a brush and stripper and remove the clearcoat on the shiny aluminum only. I did this first and then used wet sandpaper to remove corrosion and then buffed with a smaller wheel on a drill and still on the bike too.

Honestly, the only reason I think the manufacturer even uses clearcoat is a cheap way to give some shine on a very dull factory finish  :D.  I can't think of any good reason to put clearcoat back on after polishing your cases to a lovely bright shine.

I would even speculate that the original clearcoat may be responsible for accelerating corrosion  :(, because as it breaks down, water gets trapped under the coating rather than drying off when exposed to air.  When you strip the clearcoat and leave it open to the air it just does not corrode like it did with the original coating.  I have at least 6 years on my cases and I only wash them with soap & water and put a bit of wax on them once a year.  I have the same system that Lester uses and it works great (ask the ONROV fellows).

If you like to paint...then I guess I understand your reasons for clearcoating  ;).

Have fun,

Cdl

[Lester56]

"You could send me a simple part and I could shine it up for you and send it back"

You mean like the engine? :D

Uhm.....no.

I'll find time to show you an example this weekend, before and after pics.

[ironb12s]

Lester:

I have my GS750E all apart, engine and tranny innards on a rolling cart.  Perfect for the treatment that you describe, even have 2 4" high-speed grinders from Harbor-Freight.  So I just need to pick up some polishing/buffing wheels and the compounds?  Of course, in my case, I had the parts sand-blasted for potential chroming, but polishing sounds like a better way to go...

There's also a fella on the CavalCade list that replaces sight glasses in the engine covers.

[Lester56]

Irondude,

I sent you two messages.  You need a simple grinder from Lowes that has a 1/2" arbor shaft.  Then you can purchase kits like eBay item #7572209834 for very little $$$.  Use the coarse compound first then the finer compound.  I use the white block then the gray which brings me quickly to a near mirror finish on Aluminum or steel.

I haven't yanked a part of my Vision yet that I want to polish or I would demonstrate with a short video.

Lester

[ironb12s]

Well, if I get the chance, I may do a video of the GS750 engine parts being stripped and polished.  The parts were sandblasted already, and were a bright silver color when I got them back.  I had to take the jugs back for a second stripping, I hadn't cleaned between the fins very fine before the first set.  Ah, but the Vision has none of those pesky fins, so it should be an easier job...

The frame of the GS750 was bead blasted for powdercoating, need to go over it again, as it sat in a very dusty environment for almost a year and corroded (surface only, mind').  Again, if I get the chance, and hopefully soon.  I spent a little while this afternoon REALLY flushing the rear brake and clutch of my Bandit, replaced the fluid with wholly DOT4 this time.  Geez, you should have seen the clutch fluid just after a week that I applied DOT3.  Would've done the dual calipers up front but lacked the 1/4" tee to do both sides at once.  So, tomorrow afternoon for that.

[YellowJacket!]

I know this sounds kinda noobish, but exactly how do you use the bars of polish with the polishing wheels?  How do you get it onto the wheels.  I never really had any luck with them and have a set sitting in my barn.

Thanks,

David

[Tiger]

I know this sounds kinda noobish, but exactly how do you use the bars of polish with the polishing wheels?  How do you get it onto the wheels.  I never really had any luck with them and have a set sitting in my barn.

Thanks,

David

:) Please Note: Wear either safety glasses/goggles/face shield before proceeding.

1 - Fire up the tool that has the polishing wheel attached, (e.g. angle grinder), and load up the wheel by applying the bar to it, (course bar first!!).
2 - Apply the wheel to the engine case (or what ever), working the wheel back and forwards across the case in a north/south or east/west direction. (This may take several applications to remove oxidisation, scratches, etc)
3 - In between applications, wipe off the compound, before reapplying).
4 - When you have removed oxidisation, scratches, etc, take a piece of flat metal and run the wheel over the edge of it to clean out the old compound.
5 - Now reapply the finer compound to the polishing wheel and repeat #2 & 3 to remove finer scratches and bring out the lustre of the aluminum...

Finally, take a clean buffing wheel and buff to shine 8)

Note: The polishing wheels, for applying compound, are stitched and tight packed...buffing wheels are stitched at the hub area and unstitched and therefore loose for the main body.

I hope this helps...

                    8).......TIGER....... 8) 

[Rick G]

i wear a industrial apron too, the wheels will throw  bits of polishing compound, which can make a mess of your clothes .

[inanecathode]

This would be a good time to mention polished aluminum doesnt dissipate heat as fast as rough or painted.

[kwells]

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