Starter Clutch Bolts (Lot of large-ish pics)

[jasonm.]

...The 12.9 is always on the head somewhere as it is on the OEM bolts.

??? Sorry Jasonm, but not always...

                     8).......TIGER....... 8)

if it does not say 12.9...then you could not say it is...I have my originals..12.9 and the replacements from the hardware store say it as well. I like the piece of mind knowing if I grab anything at the hardware store that is special and I am paying for it...it best have proof it is...special...aka  10.9 or 12.9. FYI, LOOK at all the engine case allen bolts with a magnifying glass...all say 12.9 or should.

[Tiger]

...The 12.9 is always on the head somewhere as it is on the OEM bolts.

??? Sorry Jasonm, but not always...

                     8).......TIGER....... 8)

if it does not say 12.9...then you could not say it is...I have my originals..12.9 and the replacements from the hardware store say it as well. I like the piece of mind knowing if I grab anything at the hardware store that is special and I am paying for it...it best have proof it is...special...aka  10.9 or 12.9. FYI, LOOK at all the engine case allen bolts with a magnifying glass...all say 12.9 or should.

:) With all due respect Jason, WRONG!!! I sell hardware (for an American Company) for a living to a variety of end users: The military, Transport, Industrial, etc, etc. These are end users who demand to know, in most cases, specs...and rightly so. You DO NOT find many hardware manufacturer's, on-shore or off-shore, who put the specs on the heads of socket head cap screws. Ask your hardware store if his hardware is of North American or far East manufacture...in truth, he prob' won't know!!! FYI...Metric fasteners come in 8.8, 10.9 & 12.9. Soc' hd caps in 12.9 at 176,000 p.s.i. and to a lesser degree, 8.8 at 116,000 p.s.i...

                          8).......TIGER....... 8)

[jasonm.]

 Tiger, I believe you. Yes, I suspect much is from the far east. But again, every "special bolt" I buy has the grade on it, otherwise I do not buy it. Main reason is, the stock at the hardware store can easily be mixed up. I believe the hardware store by me sells "Hillman" brand nuts and bolts. Right on the box is gives the grade. Then I look at the head of the bolt. If it matches, I buy it. No match, no sale. I trust no one but myself. AND even then , I double check everything I do. Yes, I am "slow" doing many things others rush through. I can take 20 minutes picking out a couple bolts at the store. That's me in a nutshell. "slow perfection".  maybe that should be my mantra.

[Aelwulf]

Ok, finally got the side panel on today.  Hopefully the 1194 stuff will prevent any leaks out of the wire hole.  I also got the rubber carb mounts put back on with the new gaskets.  That just leaves the carbs for the engine area.  Then the gas tank, get it painted with plastics to match, replace the fork springs and put in tapered head bearings (latter two waiting on a bike lift of some sort).  Knock on wood it'll be set after those.

I do have something that may or may not be an issue.  I turned the ignition on just to 'test' the shifter and clutch cable after putting 'em back on.  First question is, does the shift pedal usually shift in & out of first without the clutch pulled in when the bike's not running & 2) is it typical for it to only shift between first and neutral after doing the starter clutch bolt fix?  If neither of those are normal anyone have an idea what I screwed up?  Thanks.

[Night Vision]

your shifting is not related to the clutch bolt fix.

because the engine isn't running, yes you can shift without the clutch...

AND because you're not moving... not getting past first/neutral/second is normal

[Aelwulf]

Aight, that's what I was hopin'.  Thanks. :)

[jasonm.]

Alewolf, before doing the steering bearings. Put the races in the freezer. Mine is -5F. And the warmer your garage the better. The races will shrink a tiny fraction. Often just enough to get them in easily. Also using a heat gun on the steering stem to expand will help as well. To seat the races.  Use a brass punch tapping around the edge of the new race or find a large washer to sacrifice while using a steel punch and hammer. Also to seat the races ,perfectionists remove everything in the way and use a stack of washers the same size as the races along with a big strong c-clamp or big portable vise. SO you see, there are options.

[The Prophet of Doom]

Alewolf, before doing the steering bearings. Put the races in the freezer. Mine is -5F. And the warmer your garage the better. The races will shrink a tiny fraction. Often just enough to get them in easily. Also using a heat gun on the steering stem to expand will help as well. To seat the races.  Use a brass punch tapping around the edge of the new race or find a large washer to sacrifice while using a steel punch and hammer. Also to seat the races ,perfectionists remove everything in the way and use a stack of washers the same size as the races along with a big strong c-clamp or big portable vise. SO you see, there are options.

We didn't have a brass punch so drifted mine in using the old bearing top , a large socket a hammer and some gentle tapping.  Made sure the head was clean and then lightly greased.  No freezing/heating.  The old bearing top was the perfect size to push evenly on all edges at once.  Also used that same bearing top to seat the fork seals.  The job was made easier with two, thanks Iain.  I'm still finding ball bearings in the garden.

[jasonm.]

reason I say freeze it, is because sometimes the new race will scrap the stem and get a speck of metal and not allow the race to sit perfect...Ask me, I know from experience.

[Aelwulf]

I've got a set of punches although not sure if I've any brass ones.  I do have some large(r) washers sittin' around since I have to use one to get the oil cap off the Meanie.  Freezer/heat gun option is doable, but no portable clamp.  Unless I have a C-clamp, might be thinking of a large monkey wrench I have. :P Really wish I could get someplace I could put a small bench in with a clamp and all for such things.  It can be done without though so first priority is getting the lift.