A new rider...

[Coil Coyle]

There is a black cable on the ignition box but ... nothing to connect with ?? i don't find it on the manual...

J-Et.

J-ET, On the Riders of Vision "Home" page open the "Technical" page.

Open the "Wiring Diagram" The ignition box is labeled "TCI Unit" The black/white wire goes to the "Side Stand Relay
The engine will run if this wire is connected to the Battery -. The engine will start with no safety

The neutral light switch connects to the battery - through the engine.
The Oil light switch connects to the battery -.

Both switches are on the left side of the engine case near the shift lever shaft.

Hope this helps,
;)
Coil

[J-Et.]

Coil, yes, this will may help !

Do you mean if the side stand is open the engine will not start ??? if i right understand, i got no chance to start last week, the side stand was down...  :o
As the same if the neutral light is of it will no start ?... ok i have to learn electricity (cleaning the crabs will be easier for me  ???)....

I suppose the Y/B wire going from the TCI to the tachometer is the one i have to disconnect (the famous rev limiter).
What is the "Pick up" (that is what connect the black TCI cable on your diagram) ?

J-Et.

[Brian Moffet]

Do you mean if the side stand is open the engine will not start ??? if i right understand, i got no chance to start last week, the side stand was down...  :o
As the same if the neutral light is of it will no start ?... ok i have to learn electricity (cleaning the crabs will be easier for me  ???)....

Yes, having the kick stand down will keep the engine from starting.  I believe you can start if it is in gear and the clutch is pulled in, but I haven't tried that in a while.  And I have to admit, the image of cleaning crabs brought to mind the last scenes of "Finding Nemo"... :-)

Brian

[J-Et.]

Good news : The engine start yesterday !  :D

I have :
- Take off the carbs (thank's for the way to do it, it's much easier), Open the carbs : the font one was a bit dirty the rear one look clean.
- I clean the both of them i knew there is CLEAN and clean. They are clean... I found some one who is cleaning with ultrasound, i will may give him the carbs for a deep CLEAN... The gaz pump look like working.
- Clean the electric connections on the all bike.
- Go to Yamaha ask a mechanic for the valve clearance, he tell me my values are fine, and he has the special tool, if the engine not working fine he will give it to me for doing that job. He explain me how to clean the cooling system (the liquid is now like oil, hard to clean.) Only the oldest mechanic knew this bike the other once tell me "XZ, do you mean XS ?"...
- Put back the carbs, close the engine, ...
- Clean the cooling system
- Try to start... like last weekend : "pump pump pump" but no start...
- Disconnect the rev-limiter
- Try to start... It Start !

The both exhaust are warm so I suppose the both cylinder works. (do you have a way for being 100% sure the engine is fine ? i mean the font cylinder camshaft chain will not move again)

The trouble is that the "ralenti" (low rpm of the engine) is close to 2000rpm with the "starter"(i don't knew if it is the same word). When i take the starter off the engine stop. If i just half cut the starter the engine speed go to 1600rpm, under it will stop.
I suppose i have to CLEAN the carbs, don't you ? Is there an other issue to check first because the engine start very easily.
The engine go very fast in hy rpm if i accelerate, look like it work fine.

I also have to made a deep cleaning of the radiator and to check the bypass of the cooling system because the engine get very warm after only 10 minutes, and the radiator is still cold. (but the fan work)

I also need new joints for the top of the engine (the olds one are broken) because i am lousing (a lot of) oil...

The neutral light is still not working, i don't find the reason of this trouble (the electricity is not my friend  :P). But if you use the clutch you can start. (you can ear a little "click" when it is ok for start)

Thank's again for all your usefull advisses !  ;)

J-Et.

[vadasz1]

Your one step closer MON AMI ! ! !

[QBS]

You changed engine coolant.  Good.  Did you bleed all the air out of the cooling system?  If not, the engine will overheat.  See the Haynes manual for instuctions.

The engine runs.  Good. Your cam timing must be right.

Since you have access to ultrasound, save your time and energy and don't try and clean the carbs in the usual Dip manner.  Have the carbs cleaned with ultrasound.  Ultrasound is very good.  Be very very careful when removing the the float bowl floats.  The float bowl pedistals are very easy to break if you are inexperianced.

[J-Et.]

Thank's for the advise, i will take care about that. The ultrasound cleaner i was looking for no more exist... i have to find an other one.

For the cooling system, I may have badly bleed the air out. but anyway, the radiator is not deep cleen i think, if i'm not able to make a deep clean myself next time, i will ask the yamaha mechanic for that.

I'm thinking to bring the bike to yamaha for a check of the engine before spending time and money to the rest of the bike (dampers, brakes, tyres, ...). I'm not a mechanic and i got no experience so they may see some trouble i don't. Did you think it's not useful and i'm too much anxious ?

J-Et.

[J-Et.]

Hy, bad news... :-\
As said, i bring the bike to tree mechanic today. they all agree : there is something wrong on the engine. (i mean inside)
I d'ont get the words to descibe what they tell me, i will maybe search tomorrow... anyway i will not be abble to repair te engine myself or without help. I will look for that during the next fiew days...
I suppose my project to ride this bike in a fiew month is finished...
Thank's again for all your help an advises. I hope i will repair the engine one day even if it is in a fiew years...
J-Et.

[J-Et.]

Hy every body ! sorry for the long silence... :-\
Two good news today !  :)

The first one, I got my driving license and a bike (Bandit 650N abs from 2006) since yesterday !

The second one, i may find a way to repair the XZ :
The noise i've heard, it's maybe because the cam chain is moving each time i stop the engine. if i sync the cam, it start fine again...
An old mechanic explain me it's because the tensor are damaged on the back as i previously said. If it's as i think, he knew how to repair.... so next time i've got enough time i have to check if only the rear of the tensor are used. if it's like that, it will be not too hard to repair...
So i hop to be able to look at that between now an June...

I'll tell you what append !

[Rick G]

I'm glad to hear that your on two wheels !  Good luck with you XZ550 repair efforts.
I have several cam chain tensoners. you can have ea set for the shipping . The package would be quite small and not very expensive to ship. Let me know if you want them.

[J-Et.]

Hy, nice to read you again ;)
What part of the tensionner do you talk about ? (maybe i don't knew the right word)
Did you talk of the metalic stuf whith push the tensionner or of the black stuf inside the engine who is pushing the chain ?
The damaged stuf in my case is the black stuf. so the metalic tendionner is too short. The solution is to modify the metallic stuf to made a longer one. (he made this many years ago on a suzuli bike who get the specific same trouble)
But this is possible only if the tensionner is not used but just damaged in one specific way where the metalic tensionner is pussing on it. (sorry i no able to properly explain in english....)
That's why i have to check if it's exacly the same trouble and take picture for the mechanic to be sure it's possible to repair so easely.
I try to go to my parents home as soon as possible to check that point !

[Rick G]

I'm referring to the black skids that guide the chain, not the tension device. I have that too, though.

[J-Et.]

Fine, i tell you if i need your tensor.
Thank's

[J-Et.]

Hy,
Some more news.
I open the top of the front cylinder this WE and show pictures and the little tensioner to a mechanic last Saturday....
The (black) tensor maybe fine (a bit used but not fair, to be 100%sur, he need to remove the chain so it's only a "probably fine"), the cam-chain is over. so next time i've got a few days free, i vill change the both cylinder cam-chain.
The mechanic tell me i have to remove the cam-tree to change the chain. so i vill get more infos about that...
Is that hard ? did i need specific tools ? a dynamométric tool maybe ?
Thank's for advises...
J-Et.

[Rick G]

I'm surprised , cam chains in the Vision are usually bullet proof. You will need to remove both outer covers to change both cam chains. I'm not familiar with the terms "camtree"  and "dynamometrc" tool.
Do you have a service manual ? Either factory of Haynes? I assume there available in French. I believe the Canadian ones are Bi-lingual.
Its going be much easier ,if you remove the engine from the frame and put it on a bench.

[Walt_M.]

I don't know about the 'camtree' but dynamometric is probably a torque wrench and, yes he will need one.

[J-Et.]

ok, my internet dictionary is realy bad ;) i will check on a classic one.
"camtree" is in fact "cam shaft". for the other word, Walt_M you'r right. i have to find a torque wrench.
I have a service manual but i forgot it in my father home... ::)
The mechanic tell me i don't need to remove the engine, just need to remove the covers and the cam shaft.
But i'm surprise too of the cam-chain to be used because i read on the forum the chain is like unbreakable... for memory, the bike is around 40000km ~24855 miles
To tense the chain, i need a 10cm tensioner but the tensioner is usually no more than 5cm that's why for the mechanic the chain is over. he tell me the tensor could be used for tree cam chain but to be sure they'r fine he need to remove the chain...
do you think it could be an other trouble ? i don't really got a lot of money to spend on the bike so i will be sure of what i do....
thank's again for your help.

[J-Et.]

Hy,
Somes news and more questions ;)
I find the camchain. I will change them this summer (I hope then the engine will work fine)
If i'm lucky and the engine work, i will work as much as possible on the bike this summer so i'm asking you for some more details...
Do you knew where i can find a new break system (i mean the hose). A mechanic tell me to put "Aviation hose" then i never need to change them (what do you think about ?)
Is that possible to rebuild the master cylinder and caliper ? (did I need specifics joints or anything special)
Oh, i forgot did i need to change the coolant system hose ??
Thank's
J-Et.