Ignition and Charging systems

Dave "Leather" Drapers Ignition FAQ Pages
This is a must read for every Vision owner


Tips for replacing a Stator and Starter clutch bolts

this is long, but don't let that scare you, i like to be detailed. the job will probably take you all afternoon if you havent done it before, take your time and do it right.
tips for doing the starter clutch bolts

1)  get 3 8mm x 1.25 mm hex bolts and 2 matching nuts   (i'll explane what the nuts are for later)

2) you will need to get a new left side cover gaskett and YAMABOND #3 or HONDABOND #3 from the bike shop.  you probably will have to order the gasket, but they are still avalable. order 2 if your not doing the stator, you will need the other one sooner or later.

3) I STRONGLY urge you to replace the stator and regulator with units from Electrix at this time, if you do you should NEVER have to worry about pulling the cover again or charging system worries.  this will be another $200-$250 dollars.  it seems like a lot, but it is money well spent.

4)  you will need the following tools:
--3 arm harmonic balancer puller from sears
--3 each: 8 mm bolts 7 inches long or so
--a dozen thick plain washers that fit over the 8mm bolts
--STRONG 6 point socket and ratchet to fit over the flywheel bolt, i THINK it is 13 or 14 mm.  don't use cheap jap sockets
--breaker bar or "cheater " bar to give you good leverage to remove the flywheel bolt
--4 mm hex key to remove the cover bolts
--8 mm hex key for the starter clutch bolts (better a 8mm hex socket)
--decent torque wrench.  better to rent the click type as they are expensive to buy, and the beam type are not accurate.
--razor blade scraper to clean off the old gasket
--spray BRAKE cleaner (don't use carb cleaner, it leaves an oil residue and will cause an oil leak)
--small hand held sledge or the BIGGEST hammer you can find.
--locktite red (available at any auto parts store.)
--replacement oil
--3M trim adhesive spray
--long steel drift or punch to mushroom the new bolts in place

5)  here are some other tips:

--when you have all the cover bolts, shift linkage and the clutch cable off, you might have some trouble getting the cover off because the old gasket is holding it on, and also because the flywheel is magnetic so you will have to pull against that also. DON'T hammer the directly on the case cover, put a block of wood on it and hit that instead. there are 2 dowels on the cover and it won't move side to side even with all the bolts removed.  be careful where you pry.

--trace the gasket on a piece of cardboard to hold the cover bolts in the order they go in. they are different lengths

--one of the top bolts on the cover has a copper washer, don't lose it, and be sure it goes back on the same bolt.

--the idler gear and shaft are slip fit into the case and go back in very easy, so don't worry about it.

-- if you hold the new gasket up to the cover you will notice that at the rear of the cover the gasket is very wide and will rub on the flywheel as it goes back on, dislodging it in the process, so I suggest you spray it with 3M trim adhesive and glue it directly to the engine case.

--if you have to cut the clutch bolts to length, use a bench grinder or use a cut-off wheel on a drill and hold the bolt with vice grips as it will get hot.  put one or two nuts on the bolt before you cut so that they will straighten up the threads when you remove the nuts from the cut bolts.

--the new starter clutch bolts MUST be 2 threads longer than the old ones.

--use locktite on the new clutch bolts and peen over the threads sticking out.  place the clutch asmbly on a block of wood with a rag over it.  you will have to beat the hell out of those bolts to peen them over, and you don't want to distort the sheetmetal cover on the clutch.

-follow the part on my page about smacking the puller center bolt to get the flywheel off.  smack--tighten--smack--tighten.  IT WILL COME OFF, REALLY IT WILL!  don't worry about hurting the crank, it can withstand this.

--wedge a rag in the gear behind the flywheel to keep it from turning when pulling and installing the flywheel center bolt.

-- some balancer pullers have a swivel on the end that goes against the crank shaft. you might have to remove this as they are sometimes too wide and rest against the balancer and not the crank as it should... you can try using a spacer here or the center bolt back in, just leave a space for the flywheel to come out.

--clean the sealer off the stator wires and then spray with brake cleaner.  coat the wires & grommets liberaly with yamabond, and both gasket surfaces, but DO NOT FILL the space between the gromets.

--torque the flywheel bolt to specs

--take your time and ask lots of questions :)
Use this page along with the STARTERS and CLUTCH pages
Rectifier/Regulator diagnostic graphical chart page