First Post

[Shinto]

Hi all. Just joined up. Bought an 82 couple months ago, with 13k on it and some serious PO bugerring. Great info on here. Also I passed an 83 black/gold Vision on 35W North this morning. Anyone here?

[QBS]

What upgrade history do you know about the bike?  Have you done searching research here?  Have any questions yet?  What is your M/C backgound?  What kind of mechanical experiance do you have? Please don't think me nosey.  The more we know about you and your bike the better we can help.  Welcome to ROV. 

[Shinto]

Okay, uprgrade history is unknown. I do not believe that it has a vaccuum flapper, although I have not taken apart the airbox. I went through the carbs to get an idea of how they work, and found that one carb was missing an emulsion tube, an the others squre edge is un-removable, unless I drill. I will have some questions when I starting digging in to tuning it. I have an 82 Maxim 750 that I have rebuilt the engine, and carbs. I build street rods for a living. However the maxim's engine was my first venture to motorcycle mechanics. I definately appreciate the collected knowledge, and will share what I know, wich is very little on this bike. I bought a valve clearence tool, and plan on checking/changing valves, have a haynes maual. Just need the time!

[vadasz1]

Don't forget to buy Lucky's DVD with everything ever published about the Vision..............well almost everything.

[QBS]

Since you don't know the upgrade history and considering the 13k milage, I suggest that you plan on doing the starter seal upgrade and the starter clutch reattachment first, at your earliest convenience.  After that, move on to the fuel system beginning with POR15 treating the tank(assuming the tank isn't rusted through).  At your low milage the stator is probably still good.  An easy continuity test will tell the tale.  If continuity exists, replace the stator when you reattach the starter clutch.

At any time in these processes you can go through the wiring harness and clean to squeaky clean, bright and shiny condition all the electrical connections, paying particular attention to the stator/reg rec connector.  This connection should be hard wired.  However, if the stator doesn't exhibit continuity, leave this connector OEM, but surgically clean, with a light application of grease.  When the time comes to replace that stator, hard wire its' connection.

In all likelyhood the fuse box will need to be replaced.  Easy and cheap to do.  Many here have done it.  Hopefully a search will reveal the numerous discussions and sourcing recommendations that have transpired here over the years regarding this upgrade.

Doing all of the above before starting on the carbs eliminates many potential problems that might mask what are actually carb issues.

Trust me, your V is an amazing, do everything bike.  It is so very worth what might be needed to get it well sorted and road worthy.  Cheers.

[Shinto]

Thank you much for the info, I would like to buy that dvd. I really like these bikes for some reason. They are just cool.

I hope my stator is good, I just cleaned the carbs good enough to see that it will actually run. And it did. I don't know what the po's did, hopefully not beat it too hard. Or jump start and mess it up. I am going to spend some time on it and get it tip top before it goes out on a major run. Tires look like the originals by the scaryness of the weather checks, new brakes, fork seals, re-paint- tank is not rusted out looks good just dents here and there, probabley do tapered steering bearings, fuse box, seat cover, and look over the cooling system. This is my first liquid cooled bike.

[Rikugun]

Welcome to the group Shinto  :)  I hope your stator is OK too but at 13k that's no guarantee. My 82 had 6k when I got it and the stator was shot. It was the original I discovered when I swapped it with one from my parts bike. That one was not original meaning it had allready been replaced (at least once!) by 16k showing on it's clocks. In addition, that stator had started turning black when I installed it and lasted another 4-6k.  :( In addition to QBS' recommendations* I'd install a volt gage to monitor things. Good luck and enjoy your Vision.

* With respect to QBS, his continuity check comment is a bit misleading so seek out the proper test procedure before discarding a stator that has continuity. It still may be good.  ;)

[QBS]

Rikugun, I come in peace seeking enlightenment.  Please expIain how a stator can have continuity and not be bad.

[Rikugun]

The 3 stator windings require a certain continuity value when measured between them (A to B, A to C, B to C) in order for the charging system to potentially work. Conversely, any of the three readings that is open (infinite resistance) is no good. Any of the three  legs (A, B, or C) that have continuity to ground is also no good. So depending on the test continuity can be good or bad!  :)

[QBS]

After reviewing Haynes I understand your position.  Thank you for the enlightenment.

[JohnAMcG]

you could also check ac output right off the stator between any two pins, at idle.  Is it running?

[Rick G]

According to "French the wrench"  a grumpy but talented  Visionary and MC shop owner. in Mesa az. testing a stator for resistance is pointless . He maintained that an output test is the only reliable way. I'm inclined to agree with him. Its supposed to put out more than 50 VAC on all three legs. MY VX with the same stator, needs to putout 65 VAC. 

[Shinto]

My bike won't run well enough right now to attempt any readings. I am hoping I can check when I get my new carbs gone through, change the oil etc. Stupid question, but what tool do you use to read the output. Volt meter? Whats VAC mean?

[The Prophet of Doom]

VAC = Alternating Current Volts
There will be an AV Volts setting on your multimeter

[Shinto]

Ok, thanks. Multimeter on the list.

[QBS]

A multimeter is an indispensable tool.

Stator output is the ultimate bottom line.  Measuring VAC gets directly to the crux of the matter post haste.  Rick, not meaning to be nip picky here, just wishing to eliminate a potential point of confusion.  Each seperate leg should put out 50 or better VAC on its' own.  I know that this is what you meant.

Nevertheless, I feel that there is certainly a place for the continuity test.  Like when the engine is inoperative and a quick diagnosis of stator condition is desired.  With an operative engine, VAC gives the definative stator condition report.

[Rick G]

A DVM (digital volt meter, as opposed to an analog meter)  will have 2 voltage scales DC and AC you want the AC scale (DC will allow you to check battery voltage, which is the very close to RR (rectifier regulator out put))  As QBS said and I did not make clear , check the voltage between any two leads, until you have a reading from all three . Should read 50 VAC + on all three. If one is lower , say 40 VAC, the stater is going out . If one lead has no voltage at all , the stator is dead.
You should have some type of voltage monitoring device hooked up on the bike . A digital voltmeter of some kind or a diode display is a great addition and will save you from being stranded .
Analog meters are fine,but harder to interpret the readings , Besides there not common as a new item anymore.

[Rikugun]

It seems the last time this discussion was had, more were defending the resistance checks....  I guess they've all been converted!  :D   I've always advocated checking AC voltage but I start with the quick resistance checks. If the stator is open or shorted there is little sense in testing the output - other than to satisfy one's curiosity on just how awefull it is.  :o

If the resistance checks show the stator may be good, then I go on to test the output. Depending on the stator manufacturer you can expect around 50 VAC +/- 10. I've seen claims that can be had by as little as 2500 RPM but generally find it takes more than that.

You're not testing one leg at a time but rather 2 at a time and use the same sequence I described above for the ohms tests. The 3 results should be the same or very close to the same.

[Rick G]

My feeling is reverse to yours Rik, I test output, if it has a problem there, I'm not interested  in how bad it is. Its quicker and less confusing to check the output than fuss around with ohm readings. Actually I start at the battery , if I don't see 13.5 + at 2500+  then I go to the stator. If the stator puts out properly , then its the RR .
After installing a new stator, you should always check output at the battery. Occasionally the RR will be bad too. It you have the bucks , its not a bad idea to replace it when you do the stator.
Also , on these 30 year old bikes , have look at the wire harness , in the charging circuit. Look for burnt wires and damaged or rewire by previous owners/mechanics.

[Rikugun]

Find what works for you and stick with it!  :)  :)