loosing power

[Rikugun]

I think any of those would work but it will not be  direct replacement. The mounting holes may not align and the wiring will need to be customized to your bike. For those you listed the three yellows will need to be joined to your three AC (stator) output wires. The green goes to the battery negative post and red to the battery positive post.

They seem to be aftermarket, not OEM so I don't know what the quality will be.

[Guerrero]

ok.thank you for information.ill try this one for now.when will be able to buy proper one,for big money,will do that
wiring is not the problem,i do not have original connector for three wires anyway.

[Guerrero]

finaly got my stator rewind and mew r/r mosfet unit installed.plus changed tail lights to led,and turn signals and sashboard light are waiting for install.
but problem is,that to my battery still is coming about 25 AC power.what coudl be the problem?any ideas?from stator wires has been changed with new insulation.

[Guerrero]

and finaly came to,that i want to change as much wires i can.with what should i start?what i am gonna need?

[Rick G]

Oem stators were not that special , after market are no worse and maybe better.

[Re-Vision]

Need to know what's wrong with your wiring and what wiring are you talking about. Spark plug wiring, harness, battery and starter wiring?

and finaly came to,that i want to change as much wires i can.with what should i start?what i am gonna need?

BDC

[fret not]

Guerrero, if you are having 25V AC are you measuring at the battery?  This is a strange result.  If that is so I think your regulator is bad. 

How is your regulator wired into your system?  Can you describe which wires are connected to which other wires?  And which wires connect to the battery?

[Guerrero]

wiring i was thinking about is-battery wires,and everithing around fuses.as well,to change fuses and fuse box.about that question is-why on photos many of you have 4 or more fuses?i have only 2 originals
spark plugs and caps i allready changed.
i dont actually know about r/r,i hope it should be good...although ordered from china..wires are 3 yelow,and 2 red,2 green.and conected as it should be-yelow to white stator wires,2 reds to 1 red going to fuse,and 2 green to 1 black.

[Re-Vision]

Was your stator rewound by someone who knows how to do the rewinding and how to test it? I would purchase a new one before attempting to rewind an old stator. Wiring seldom causes troubles, it's the connections to terminals that present problems. Repair terminals and you will fix most of your electrical problems associated with wiring.     BDC

[Guerrero]

Thanks about wiring.
Well man who was rewinding is well known,for his jobs.every one with any electro motors or stators or something go to him so he does that good.

[tig5]

I hope you get it sorted. I think we are having the same problem so I'll be interested to see what the issue is. I have ordered a new R/R, just waiting for it to arrive. I've tried a new stator, new plugs and leads and a new TCI, still having the same problem.

[Guerrero]

and still i am back with this posts main problem- mid range power lose.have tried many different coins on flapper to glue on,but still nothing,cant get smooth throttle till max rpm.it just looses on about 5k,and just after kickdown (or i dont know,how it is right on english) turns in,it only gets higher than 6k rpm...i am sick of this allready...there is no vacuum leacs,everithing seems to work fine.but still this hole in rpm
want to change jets to 120 pilot air jets,and 122.5/127.5 main jets,i understand,that should be correct,in rebuild kit i had 130/135

oh,and what weight should i put on air flap?i mean,at what rpm it only should start to open?

[The Prophet of Doom]

The weight I've seen suggested is 2 US nickels.  They are about 5 grams each.

I went back through this thread - and noticed you said your serial number was 11U-051602.

I believe you have a german low power model – even though the model designation is 11V these have a serial 11U-050101 onwards.  There are two main differences between a 11U and 11V.  Cams and Jetting.  You can verify if your bike really is an 11V by measuring the inlet cam lobe height - 35.399mm on the 50 Horsepower 11V, 36.80mm on the 64 horsepower 11U, or checking the throttle valve - 125 on an 11V, 120 on an 11U

The rebuild kit jets will be wrong for an 11V - Jetting should be
Main Jet 130/135
Air Jet 130/130

Since you are working on your bike, I'd suggest converting it to an 11U.  Someone here is bound to have a set of cams.
The 11V will run only marginally better than the 45 horsepower XZ400 - the difference between that and a 64 horsepower 11U is enormous.

Only if you change the cam I'd suggest going to 120/120 air jets.  The larger jets were based on those that came with vacuum actuated flapper kit which you don't have.  (Even then, I believe they are wrong and should be 135/135, but there is disagreement about this by some - the documentation is poor in this area).  Iain and I both run 120/120 air jets with the vacuum flapper.

If you are still getting a bog after all this, pay some attention to emulsion tube cleanliness, accelerator pump cleanliness and direction, you may even need to back off the accelerator pump actuator rod a little.

[cvincer]

Before any changes, look down the carburetor throats and make sure your accelerator jets have not lost their nozzle.

[Guerrero]

i have the accelerator nozzle for sure.that should not be the problem.
hmm.ok,i will check that cam lobe height and butterfly

and while i have not checked it yet,is it hard to convert it to u11? what will i need? the camshaft and carb?

thanks,again

[Guerrero]

oh those germans :)dont they have anything else to do,than lower piece of art? :-\

will be able to check if it is one of those,only on monday..if it will be like that,i guess i am going to cry  :laugh:(nah,just hard..)

[The Prophet of Doom]

If it's just cams and jetting, then not so hard to convert.  That's all that is listed in the comparison of the two models 11U and 11V.

The only way to be 100% sure of all the differences would be to go through the parts fiches line by line.  You will find them in this thread, also a comparison of the two models 11U and 11V from the German XZ site
http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=12221.0

On the plus side, if you think your bike runs well at wide open throttle, then you would be really pleased after adding 14 horsepower

[Guerrero]

oh,well jets is no problem.only cams i think,i guess it will cost me a lot,especially shipping =( but you said something about throttle valve? 120 or 125 ,is not it butterfly?or am i wrong,sorry language barrier and everithing.

but yeah,will check,do i really have kid's version,and then will do that =)

[The Prophet of Doom]

Yes throttle valve=butterfly, but butterfly is not the official technical term.
They may have the number 120 or 125 written on them.

[Guerrero]

yes,i understand that butterly is not off term =) just for me to understand what is what.ok then.thank you.will have a look.and write back.