YAVR - Yet Another Vision Rebuild

[sunburnedaz]

Ok so I vowed that I would document this rebuild but if this needs to be moved let me know.

So last night I started to rebuild the vision at 14664.7 miles. And the first stage in any renovation is dis-assembly.


Got almost every fluid I need at the local MC shop plus a filter and plugs.


So I took the brake system off. Strangely enough there was still clean looking brake fluid in the wheel cylinder. I swear it would have worked if I had a working MC. I didn't get of it coming off though.


Took the fork brace off and loosened the fork caps. I actually had the 17mm hex head socket from a set I bought at harbor freight tools when I needed a 19mm hex socket and had to buy a set of them.


Then I took the wheel off.


Then I took off the forks.



So that was all the work I got done last night. The forks are really soft for my 220lbs frame so any thoughts on what I can do.

[funkamongus]

damn, thats a clean looking machine to start with!! Good for you.. I understand the 83 shock is a better shock,, but these other folks will know for sure..

[kwells]

you can counteract much of the softness with a set of progressive fork springs and 15wt fork oil.  It will still be soft when compared to a modern sport bike but will allow much harder braking without the front end bottoming out.

Here is a link to the springs @ Dennis Kirk

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp;jsessionid=NGOZSQXNHRCXNLA0WTKSM4VMDK0NCIV0?store=&skuId=58962&mmy=

[QBS]

Good on ya!  Your fork seals need to be replaced.  The brake fluid looked clean because it was replaced during the braided brake line upgrade(a really good thing).  Conversion of the forks to air forks might give you the front end feel you want.  I run 6 psi in my stock '83 factory air forks.  They are fairly plush and never bottom.

[akvision]

Looks clean, just dusty.  Am surprised that you didn't give it a bath before dissassembly. 
Good luck, and I will follow your progress with interest.

This is the beginning of the "bonding" part that will banish the "Vg's" (visiongrems) :)

[YellowJacket!]

Wow! Compared to what a lot of our bikes looked like starting out for our restorations, you have a pretty clean slate.  Didn't see any rust which is a very good thing.  You should have quite a nice bike when you are done.
I've plastered hundreds of pictures on here over the years.  I don't think theres anything wrong with documenting your progress with pictures.

David

[sunburnedaz]

Good on ya!  Your fork seals need to be replaced.  The brake fluid looked clean because it was replaced during the braided brake line upgrade(a really good thing).  Conversion of the forks to air forks might give you the front end feel you want.  I run 6 psi in my stock '83 factory air forks.  They are fairly plush and never bottom.

Seals replaced and forks rebuilt today! Yay!

Looks clean, just dusty.  Am surprised that you didn't give it a bath before dissassembly.  
Good luck, and I will follow your progress with interest.

This is the beginning of the "bonding" part that will banish the "Vg's" (visiongrems) :)

Couldn't give it a bath. It didn't run and all of the body work was off when I started. I did take 60 psi shop are with the blow pencil to dust it which promptly settled onto .... well everything.

Wow! Compared to what a lot of our bikes looked like starting out for our restorations, you have a pretty clean slate.  Didn't see any rust which is a very good thing.  You should have quite a nice bike when you are done.
I've plastered hundreds of pictures on here over the years.  I don't think theres anything wrong with documenting your progress with pictures.

David

Yup I knew the guy who owned it before I did. He did let live in a nice garage in nice dry AZ. 

[sunburnedaz]

On tap for today fork rebuild with stock springs and 20wt oil verdict - I like it. Here are the juicy bits for you. I took enough pics for a tutorial if needed.

Fork You!


Draining Fork Oil


The 19mm damper rod holder


Getto Clamping job since my vice is not mounted


Dust seal removal


Nasty Rusty clip (it cleaned up with some light sand paper and PB blaster)


Great tool for pulling out oil seals only like 5 bucks at harbor freight tools.


Post cleaning install of damper rod


Installing the Oil seal


Install some 20wt oil 8.7 oz is what I heard was the magic number for an 82


Setting the oil level, 300mm right?


Putting it together


Magic of the internetz I haz done 2 now


Got the forks installed and the wheel installed then bounced the front end and it felt much better.


Other thing I got done today. Replacing broken throttle cable.


New Unit

[chrisw]

Nice work! I have to do alot of this too, so its great to see some similar photo doco's :D

[sunburnedaz]

So not that I didn't work on the Vision but I just kept working on the same d*mn part the past few days. But I finally won!!! Now for the spoils of war. The old MC had just enough life left to push out one good piston before giving up the ghost. I knew it was toast so I planned on rebuilding it anyway. I got 2 more calipers to rebuild along the way so if anyone is looking for a brake caliper I will have 2 LH ones soon.

One almost completely clean caliper body




The caliper bore. It took me forever to get the gunk out of the seal area.


The piston, it only has some small <1mm corrosion pits in them and all subsurface, I cleaned it up with solvents, nylon brush wheels and jewelers polish to try to get rid of the gunk that was on it. After I get the other units out I will see how many I need to order.

[don_vanecek]

Nice work, can't wait to see more!

[sunburnedaz]

Got more work done last night. Turns out the working master cylinder had not given up the ghost after all. Too bad that one has tons of damage to the cover threads or I would just use it.

Here is the "good" master cylinder. it looks like it sat so long in the AZ heat that the brake fluid dried up I have never seen that before.


Close up of the gunk that in the master cylinder.


Got the dust boot off now time to get the snap ring off. Yes the plunger is seized up at the far end of its travel.


Found an interesting way to remove the plunger. Soaking it in cleaners and solvents first didn't let me pull it out so instead I pre-bled the damaged master cylinder and line, then filled the bore of the seized master cylinder with brake fluid then bolted where the brake caliper would normally go using the same banjo bolt and then stroked the damaged master cylinder to build pressure and out popped the seized plunger from the seized master cylinder.


I am so glad I have about a quart of "used" but clean brake fluid to pop these brake caliper pistons and master cylinder plungers out. I would hated to have to use the bottle of new DOT4 I have for the rebuild just to pop these things apart. Here is the bore of the seized master cylinder with out the plunger.



Exploded Master Cylinder number 1


Exploded Wheel Caliper 2 (yesterday's was number 1)


Partly Exploded Wheel Caliper 3 still having trouble getting the caliper off the guide pins.

[lexx790]

Nice work, been doing exactly the same thing over the past few nights with the master cylinder.
I've just finished paint stripping and polishing the top cover to see what it looks like and its polished up well.
I've already disassembled the brake cylinders stripped the paint off cleaned and had them sent away and had them alochromed so the inner grooves shouldn't corrode anymore.
I just gotta get some 2 pack paint to finish the job.

[sunburnedaz]

Nice work, been doing exactly the same thing over the past few nights with the master cylinder.
I've just finished paint stripping and polishing the top cover to see what it looks like and its polished up well.
I've already disassembled the brake cylinders stripped the paint off cleaned and had them sent away and had them alochromed so the inner grooves shouldn't corrode anymore.
I just gotta get some 2 pack paint to finish the job.

Is that a chromate converstion process like they use in aircraft to protect aluminum or even the very same one. (I used to work in the IT department at an areospace company) Does anyone know what the calipers are made of cast aluminum perhaps?

PS does anyone know where I can locate the little boots that go over the caliper guide pins.

[lexx790]

Yes it is the same I think just different companies use trade names and our paint sub contractor at work calls it alochrome.

[sunburnedaz]

I googled it and saw that classic green color I firgured that is what is was.

[The Prophet of Doom]

I know powder coat and 2 pack paint is resistant - you can spill and as long as you wash it off soonish you are fine, but if you fail to do so you will find the paint has softened or even dissolved.
Is this olochrome is brake fluid proof?  What will happen to the inside of the caliper and your braking performance if this stuff is not 100% resistant?  If you ask me, having to do a clean like you did every 27-odd years is no big deal compared to the big deal of finding you have no brakes at 100 miles an hour

[sunburnedaz]

I know powder coat and 2 pack paint is resistant - you can spill and as long as you wash it off soonish you are fine, but if you fail to do so you will find the paint has softened or even dissolved.
Is this olochrome is brake fluid proof?  What will happen to the inside of the caliper and your braking performance if this stuff is not 100% resistant?  If you ask me, having to do a clean like you did every 27-odd years is no big deal compared to the big deal of finding you have no brakes at 100 miles an hour

It was never really the plan to use it since I dont know anyone who can do it. I was planning on powder coating them or painting them and masking off the bore and guide pin area.

[akvision]

One might consider color aluminum electro plating.  Anodizing.  It is a good finish and many colors can be selected.
Aircraft have been doing Blue for years.   I think it is a better option than powder coat.

[chrisw]

anodizing is a great choice IMHO as well. blue is always fantastic but a bit overdone. what about black anodized (after all its just dye added to the process).