YAVR - Yet Another Vision Rebuild

[sunburnedaz]

I was thinking about anodizing the calipers but there are two problems. 1) the parts seem to be made of cast aluminum which is notoriously hard to anodize and get looking good. Second there is a pressed in steel insert that would be destroyed by the acid they use during the process.

[akvision]

I believe that he insert can be coated or sealed with a removable coating to protect it.

[sunburnedaz]

Alright I have come to an interesting cross roads. Stearing head brearings should I mess with them at all. There is none of the usual problems of tightness or binding so are the bearings so prone to going out on these bikes that they should be replaced now?

[QBS]

If you've OEM or OEM design loose ball bearings, it's a no brainer.  Install tapered roller bearing.  If you have tapered rollers already in place, evaluate them for notchyness or tightness.  If not too notchy, but still a little tight, grease'm up and ease up on the steering head bearing preload.

[sunburnedaz]

Sounds good. I will be pulling apart the top triple tree clamp sometime this weekend so I will inspect it then.

[The Prophet of Doom]

Don't just inspect - replace!. 
My steering head bearings seemed fine. PO said he replaced them 2 years ago - but replacing with tapered bearings improved handling 100%.  The bike no longer tracks seams in the tarseal, holds the line in hard cornering much better, and the slight high speed wobble is gone.
Well worth the effort and minimal cost.  That and the braided brake lines are the best value upgrades I have done.

[zmiller]

Does anyone have a part number for these tapered bearings?

I've got my front end apart to replace the wheel bearings, so I might as well go ahead and try to fix the steering wobble with new bearings as well.

[vadasz1]

They are posted here.

http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=10467.0

[zmiller]

Thank you.

[sunburnedaz]

Ok 2 quick questions before I can get back to the house and upload photos of what I got done this weekend.

Starter - should it be rebuilt? Should it be removed at all to inspect the seals?  When I ran it I didn't hear the classic noise problems associated with the starter bolts and the starter sounded strong and didn't sound like there was oil in the starter.


Second - Who is a mod I can ask about an etiquette thing before I get the ban hammer for advertising.

[sunburnedaz]

Ok 3rd question what is the radiator and the block made of. I am guessing the rad is a traditional copper, brass and the block is aluminum right?

[Re-Vision]

Got an old  warped radiator that I scraped the top, bottom, fins, and the vertical channels and all appear to be aluminum.  BDC

[chrisw]

sounding good, cant wait to see some pics :)

If your doing a bit of a refresh/refurbish, why not just do the starter motor now so you dont have to do it in the future as soon?
As for the radiator, revision called up that point. Mine isnt in the best condition so I've got a local radiator guy who is going to make me a custom radiator thats approx 30% better cooling wise. and just plumb up some custom little fittings so it bolts in and pipes up correctly, probably a good idea since its going to be summer when this bike is on the road, and 110 degree aussie days in traffic might be a bit hard on the old girl.

[sunburnedaz]

Ok what we got done over the weekend. First thing is some parts came in.

Caliper Seal Kit


Test Fitting the Seals in Caliper before it goes to powdercoat


Brake Pads


"All Ball" Brand Front Wheel Bearing Kit


Uni Brand Air filter


Nasty Old Front Wheel Bearing


Old balls, New Ball bearing


One step forward and 3 steps back. I had to pull it all apart to inspect the steering head bearings


The guys at the local shop went ahead an ordered me the tapered steering head bearings, rear wheel bearings, and master cylinder rebuild kit for me and it should all be in tomorrow. I have already found one problem with the upper triple tree clamp in that one of the bolts that holds the key cylinder in place was missing which was why you had to have the key just right to turn it on or lock it. All the wires that were in the headlamp bucket are out and the connectors have been cleaned with contact cleaner and will get di-electric greased upon re-assembly tomorrow.

[Brian Moffet]

If you get a Jack Stand (like http://www.amazon.com/Torin-Double-Lock-Jack-Stands-Capacity/dp/B00026Z3EA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1251816134&sr=8-6) you can wedge it under the front of the engine.  It would keep the lift from being in the way. I found it really helpful.  Just don't bump it too hard:

[sunburnedaz]

Brian I have one of those exact same ones. I use the jack so that I can adjust the height of it to get the axle bolt in and out without banging on it.

Any who MORE PROGRESS!!!!!

The OEM races were pounded out with an aluminum rod I had handy


The tapered steering head bearings to replace the crappy OEM ball units


Bearings after being carefully tapped into the head tube with a block of plastic with red synthetic grease


After that I cleaned the contacts


And I never put a non-water proof connector back without di-electric grease


I was debating stripping it to the frame and having the frame powdercoated but I came to the opinion that since this has been an AZ bike and shows little to no signs of rust I am not going to go though that hassle for a bike that will just be a fun toy to ride. (Well at least for now. If I ever have to do major work again I might just pull it apart and do it just not now)

[sunburnedaz]

evening update. It lived!!!!!!!!

[funkamongus]

YEAH!!!! Lots of progress!!! Looking good and she'll love ya for it!!

[sunburnedaz]

ok so its got every classic vision carb problem but damn it it ran. I can get it up to red line but it takes some tweaking to get past the 4k-5k stumble.

Can i rebuild the carb without the kit that seems to be impossible to find for the 82's. Just reuse the rubber parts, dip the hard parts, and cut a new float bowl gasket?

[Brian Moffet]

I didn't even need to replace the float bowl gasket, I would wait on that until you decide you need it.  If it ran to red-line, and you only had the 4 - 5k stumble, make sure that it is tuned correctly (carb sync problems will cause that stumble) before you tear into it.

Brian