charging system failure.... :(

[Hartless]

so two days ago i was on the freeway on the way to work, when all of the sudden i lose all power . i somehow made it all the way from the far left lane to the right shoulder (cut a work buddy off come to find out the next day when he is b****ing about how some asshole on a bike cut him off :b) so i used my voltage meter when i towed it home and its not charging correctly. gonna get a new battery , ohm meter, and stator or r/r??? hopefully its just the battery but symptoms say stator or r/r......

[The Prophet of Doom]

Follow the electrex fault finding chart.  Trying to diagnose any other way is going to see you buying parts you don't need.

[Hartless]

thats my intention. i have  not checked anything other than voltage. i just am in need of a new battery for sure.

[Raj1988]

Bro, start the bike, stick a voltmeter on the battery terminals... 99.99% of the time, if it isn't reading approx 14V go thru the chart  else you can go thru the electrex chart. and no 12 is no good

[Hartless]

Bro, start the bike, stick a voltmeter on the battery terminals... 99.99% of the time, if it isn't reading approx 14V , then you can go thru the electrex chart. and no 12 is no good

it reads 13.2 at idle and up to 14 at 5000 rpm

[Night Vision]

it reads 13.2 at idle and up to 14 at 5000 rpm

so it's charging fine..... look for loose ground cable, bum side stand switch.... did you upgrade the fuse box?

[Tiger]

it reads 13.2 at idle and up to 14 at 5000 rpm

??? Nothing wrong with those figures buddy....your charging system is working just fine.

                    8) .......TIGER....... 8)

[Lucky]

what did you need to do to get it restarted? if it was jumping it or charging, you might have made it to work by pulling the headlight fuse & bump starting it.  you can go a long way like that...

seeing how you lost all power, start with the basics that would cause that:

--low battery water/bad battery: 
you can do a basic "load test" by hooking up a volt meter right to the battery, disconnect the TCI and crank the bike for 10-15 seconds.  if voltage goes below 10v recharge & retest.  if it fails twice, replace it.

--Battery cables:
check the cables from the battery & to the fusebox, don't trust an original fuse box. wiggle the wires, wiggle the tabs that hold the fuses in.  make sure the connectors are clean & tight.

--Ignition switch:
the 2 screws that hold the ignition switch in have a habit of working loose.  this can stress the conections in the back of the switch. a loose connection here can kill the bike.

--Kill switch:
they get corroded & go bad.  usualy cleanable with disasembly

--main connectors in the headlight bucket:
these are gang connectors & can kill the bike if they are loose or not snaped in all the way.

--Safety switches & relays:
these go bad, fail, etc. test individualy.  i've opened some relays that were packed with rust & grunge...

--TCI / pick-ups:
TCI failure can be intermitant.  they aren't waterproof eiter.  flood the unit with WD-40 or silicone spray.  if the left engine cover has been off, make sure the pick -up wires aren't pinched.

that's enough to get you started...

[Hartless]

well, i am hoping it is just the battery. i have to replace starter clutch bolts too so i figured id check the stator while im at it. i was thinkin battery because the voltage id fine.. oh and i figure ill put new conectors on the stator too.(i know i should have done that a while ago)

[Raj1988]

stator can be tested via the 3 pin connector .. no need for dis assembly. You should follow the fact finding chart.. it is quite straightforward...

[Hartless]

well dont you have  to take of the cover to put new starter clutch bolts anyways

[fret not]

Yes, you have to remove the cover to replace the starter bolts.  obviously.  As long as you have it off it is a good idea to visually check the stator for crispy flaking insulation.  If it is solid and checks out electrically you are good.

[Hartless]

Yes, you have to remove the cover to replace the starter bolts.  obviously.  As long as you have it off it is a good idea to visually check the stator for crispy flaking insulation.  If it is solid and checks out electrically you are good.

haha thanks , i really was just flickin Raj s***. buuut, what do you mean by flaky insulation?  as in th wires?

[Raj1988]

ahahaha... F u big guy!!!  ;D

[fret not]

What I am referring to is the material the coils of the stator are "potted" in.  If the stator gets too hot for too long this stuff fries and turns black, then starts to crumble and flake off.  If it is flaky then it is a good time to replace the stator even if it tests good because the insulation that used to hold the wires solid no longer does and they can short.  Chances are that if it is flaky it won't test good due to the loss of insulation.

The stator on my '82 is solid black but not flaky or crumbly and still tests good, but I also have a crumbly flaky one in a pile of parts, and that one is no good.

[Hartless]

What I am referring to is the material the coils of the stator are "potted" in.  If the stator gets too hot for too long this stuff fries and turns black, then starts to crumble and flake off.  If it is flaky then it is a good time to replace the stator even if it tests good because the insulation that used to hold the wires solid no longer does and they can short.  Chances are that if it is flaky it won't test good due to the loss of insulation.

The stator on my '82 is solid black but not flaky or crumbly and still tests good, but I also have a crumbly flaky one in a pile of parts, and that one is no good.

oh ok i see. well sooner or later i will get some time to work on the v. i will let you know then :D