My Boy Blue

[The Prophet of Doom]

You will find that one of the two tabs has been bent over, but not two... :o and sometimes not all the way down against the nut as it should be!!!!!

This is really common on Jap bikes.  I guess the reasoning must be that lock tabs should never be re-bent, and that this way you have a spare for maintenance without needing to buy a new part.  You will see the same thing on the vision brake rotors, and the swingarm bolt.

[munkyfistfight]

It was more of a visual inspection that prompted the purchase of a new stator and the initial charging issues. The epoxy was cracked and chipping in some places and there are a few coils that seem burnt. I'm going to do the diagnostic with a fully charged batter and fresh stator that's been hardwired. It couldn't hurt, could it? :-P

[akvision]

If you have the new stator put it in... and hard wire it..

but I am curious about the "old" stator.. run a test to see if it is shorted.

I had no issues with the tranny or clutch.  Hope you get some good riding in this summer.
akvision.

[munkyfistfight]

I think I will give it a try. You've got me curious now. It did need to come out anyway since the 2 rubber grommets were completely melted and were leaking oil before I pulled it. They looked like mush and were really really soft. The grommets for the pickup wires were in perfect shape.

As far as the shifting "noise" I was hearing, it was with the clutch in and as I shifted up or down it sounded clunky. It was leaking oil. I was reading that it could be due to lack of lubrication. When I let the clutch out, it feels fine. It's just when I actually press the shift lever up or down it sounds clunky.

[QBS]

V's shift pretty clunky.  If you are used to a modern, slick, short throw shifting Honda or the like, the V will feel pretty crude.  Reminds me a lot of my '70 R60/5 BMW, but not quite that bad.

The only way to know for sure is to ride another V or have another V aficionado ride yours.

[munkyfistfight]

Finally got the new stator from Tim Parrott!!

I'll put it in tomorrow and run some tests.

Check out this note I got when the box arrived on the doorstep

[Tiger]

 :) Daryl at #214 doesn't have a Vision ???  :o... ;D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D.. ;)

[Rikugun]

And it's a good thing. Otherwise munkyfistfight would never have seen his stator cause Daryl woulda put it in his Vision.  :D

[Lucky]

so he opened it even though it wasnt his name on it?...

[QBS]

So Tiger, are you insinuating that Daryl at #214 has no vision?

[JohnAMcG]

Probably reported you to homeland security.  Expect a follow up from the authorities.

[munkyfistfight]

:-P My girlfriend though it was a prop from the Iron Man movies.  :D

At any rate, I'm putting it in tonight and hopefully be up and on the road again tomorrow.

Quick question: The gasket I have is still in good condition. I read somewhere that applying a thin layer of grease would help seal it better. Would I be incorrect in assuming so? Also, do I need to put any kind of sealant on the wires coming out of the rubber grommets or where they rubber parts meet?

Thanks!

[Rikugun]

In my opinion grease doesn't have any magical sealing properties but is more to allow for ease of disassembly next time around. Many people swear by it's use though.

I agree with your thought to seal the grommets and everyone has their favorite sealer. I've tried many brands over the years and have favorites for particular applications. I had some Permatex "Ultra Grey" opened and used it sparingly on  both sides of the gasket, around the wires and grommets and have no leaks. Be sure to move the grommets back and forth over some sealer to get it in the grommet holes/wire interface.

I'd also dry fit the stator to ensure a good fit prior to gooping everything up for assembly. It's important to carefully route the wires using the sheetmetal guides to keep the wires out of harms way. I used some medium strength blue loctite on the cleaned mounting screws and stator screws. I found the length of wire from stator to grommets was different than the original. I had to trim some of the protective sleeve to allow the grommets to reach and fit properly. Come to think of it I may have modified the clamp were the wires exit the stator to match the original as it was keeping the first sheetmetal guide from fitting properly. Yours may bolt right in hassle free but it doesn't hurt to mock it up first.

Set some time aside, don't rush and you'll be back on the road soon.  :)

[akvision]

Reading with great interest here.. I'm with rhpaw here in CO... will be sending you some good parts soon. 

Am dumping the old shock and front fender.

AKvision

[munkyfistfight]

Thanks! I hope you're doing good.

I got the new stator in. It's been sitting a while, and even with a fresh battery it took quite a few minutes to get it to start. It's running strong when it's up, but the voltometer is still reading really low. I have to take it to a shop anyways before I can have it registered (a good mechanic friend of mine owes me a favor) and we're going to get the carbs tuned properly and go through the fault finding chart with the electrical system.

I noticed that one of the white connectors to the TCI is broken and 2 of the connections are exposed. I had trouble when I reconnected and the cylinders weren't firing properly. So I switched the wires around and it fired to life.

I'm going back at it again tomorrow with the battery freshly charged before I take it to my friend.

[akvision]

ok, if you go back and review the posts or emails sent,,, rhpaw noted that he cut wires then put back...it was something to do with the rev limiter or.... the kill switch on the kick stand.

anyway,, you will figger it out... am sending a good tci and some relays and a set of fork seals and other misc bits. 

akvision

[munkyfistfight]

First off, thanks Jim for the package. It arrived safe and sound. I don't know how I could ever repay your generosity.

Ok, so I managed to get over to the V today (stored at my mom's house). I charged the new battery and the old one (as a backup). I decided to hook up the old one first and run it out. It kept trying and trying to start but wouldn't stay up, so I tweeked with the idle screws for a while until the old battery wore out. I checked a few connections and pulled the R/R out away from the motor (unscrewed it from the back of the battery box). Eventually it fired up, but wouldn't stay running. So, I put in the new battery and it started. I adjusted the idle screw so it would stay running (full choke; there's definitely a carb adjustment needed). Out in the driveway, I let it warm up, then it bogged out and died. After that, it would barely turn over. The battery was dead.

I'm thinking there's a short somewhere. The R/R was really hot, by the way. Is that normal? I'm beginning to think that might be the source of the issue. New stator but the battery isn't staying charged?? I bought a nice digital multimeter today and plan on going through the electrical system with a fine-toothed comb over the weekend.

This winter, when it goes into the shop, I'm going to take out the wiring harness and really clean it up.

At any rate, I thought I'd give an update. I hope everyone has a nice Easter.