stator and RR

[nzvision]

Hi all,

I know theres a issues and many posts around the replacement of these. 

I have replaced both of mine over the weekend and am still only getting 12.5 volts.  Im not sure what else I can do.  The RR also got very very hot very quickly.  (i have now moved it to where the YICS was - its gone).   
Both the stator and RR are brand spanking new (has now cost me also as much as the bike). 

This weekend I plan to replace the fuse box with blade fuses and see what that does, but i dont want to blow the rr in the mean time.

Also, the 3 white wires coming out of the stator and the three (in the case Yellow) wires, does it matter which one mates with which ?  Ive been told it doesnt but I can only think is potentially the issue. ? 

is there something obvious (or not) Im missing ?
when the last rr blew it blew all the bulbs, and i have replaced the indicator relay, are there more that  need repalcing?   also the rev counter is not working now (im assuming that this is now fried - the speedo still works however) - i cant see any other fuses that need repacing for this, and assume on my 1988 xz 400 that it runs straight off the stator somewhere - but I cant fidn the wire to trace back

any advice/suggestions are gratefully accepted as I really enjoy riding the bike when it goes.  (its also hard to start, but right now thats the least of the issues). 

thanks

cory.

[fret not]

Have you read the information linked from the HOME PAGE?  Ignition FAQ , and charging system.  Also the Electrex diagnostic chart is helpful.

[Rikugun]

I have replaced both of mine over the weekend and am still only getting 12.5 volts.  Sounds like you are getting no more than battery voltage. BTW, you are measuring at the battery, right? And up to 5-6k RPMs - not just idle? Also wouldn't hurt to confirm readings with a different instrument. The RR also got very very hot very quickly.  (i have now moved it to where the YICS was - its gone). Both the stator and RR are brand spanking new (has now cost me also as much as the bike).  Still very hot in this new location? Is the R/R a MOSFET or conventional? Is there a voltage sensing wire? What brand of stator and regulator? Is the battery good??

This weekend I plan to replace the fuse box with blade fuses and see what that does, but i dont want to blow the rr in the mean time. This is a good idea even if it doesn't help the immediate problem.  :)

Also, the 3 white wires coming out of the stator and the three (in the case Yellow) wires, does it matter which one mates with which ?  No. How many other wires and what are the colors?

when the last rr blew it blew all the bulbs, Sounds like it was over-charging - a lot! Do you happen to know what the voltage was that blew the bulbs?)and i have replaced the indicator relay, are there more that  need repalcing?   I don't know if they've been damaged but there are at least 2 more - one for the sidestand and the other for clutch interlock I think.also the rev counter is not working now (im assuming that this is now fried - the speedo still works however) - i cant see any other fuses that need repacing for this, and assume on my 1988 xz 400 that it runs straight off the stator somewhere - but I cant fidn the wire to trace back If you are talking about speedo illumination, that would be strange. If you are talking about registering speed, it drives mechanically via a cable from the front wheel.  ;)  :)

[nzvision]

Thanks Fret, I have done that.  But as I have bolted in a brand new stator and RR i thought this would have fixed it.  Ill have another read over it this weekend. 

Rikugun - yes measuirng at the battery, and yes right up to 5 -6 k (or higher cause it sounded good).
The battery was good, I cant recall the brand (im at work) but it was made in argentina.

There were 5 wires coming out - a black, 2 red and 2 green.  I was told I can join them or not and it wouldnt matter (the green to green, red to red and also black to red as well)  i joined green to green, red to red and put black into the black/yellow one on the connector (ill try to get a photo of this) from what I know this was a lighting one, and appears to loop on itself.

no its the tacho (sorry, wrong terminology for overseas (ie outside nz)) 

the side stand shouldnt matter as its disconnected anyway, where is the clutch interlock located pleasE?

and after it blew it was up at 16 -18 volts (it bloew the 30 amp fuse and fried all that) so the manky fuse box will be replaced. 

its going to Boyles kawasaki in wellington (they used to race and build bikes here in nz and have been really good to deal with for parts etc) and they will have a look see.  but im tryiong to rule out things before that happens. (they are tessting the rr as they have had some faulty ones lately)

[Rikugun]

There were 5 wires coming out - a black, 2 red and 2 green.  Based on the colors I'm guessing this regulator is from a Honda application?  I was told I can join them or not and it wouldnt matter (the green to green, red to red and also black to red as well)  i joined green to green, red to red and put black into the black/yellow one on the connector (ill try to get a photo of this) from what I know this was a lighting one, and appears to loop on itself.  This is just a guess but did you connect red to battery positive and green to battery negative? Further guessing provided it's for a Honda application -  the black should go to a switched 12 volt source. On some, without this connection the R/R is disabled. What is the black/yellow you have it connected to, is that on the bike's harness? Is it 12 volts with the key on?

where is the clutch interlock located pleasE? on my US '82 the relays all live behind the TCI ignition module on the right side of the bike.

[Re-Vision]

Clutch Interlock is the switch located at the clutch actuator handle, it works in conjunction with the Starting Circuit Cut-Off Relay and the Side Stand Relay as well as the Clutch, Side Stand, and Neutral Switches. Engine is prevented from running when TCI Unit has ground applied to B/W wire from Side Stand Relay..

"the side stand shouldnt matter as its disconnected anyway, where is the clutch interlock located pleasE?"

BDC

[pinholenz]

Hi Cory, I have had the same symptoms.. PITA.  The bottom line for me was faulty R/R's. I only run my bike on used parts and went through 3 R/R's from my local bike parts man ( he graciously replaced them all and gave me a refund in the end) They were all shunt style R/R's. I finally came good with a MOSFET R/R which runs as cool as and I left it behind the battery box.

As a precaution I wired my R/R's directly to the battery avoiding the loom altogether until after the battery. Green to the negative terminal and Red to the positive via its own 30 amp fuse.

My starting issues have disappeared after replacing the starter cable post with a new (rust free) bolt and putting in new heavier cables from the starter to the starter solenoid and from the battery negative to the engine earth.

All the best

[nzvision]

thanks pinholenz.   mine turned out to be retard wiring (done by me)   that blew up the first brand new rr i put in.   all sorted now.  starts like a dream now.   went for a 200k shakedown on saturday no issues as uet other than the rider.   looking forward to more.      should have a vision get together here in nz.

[The Prophet of Doom]

should have a vision get together here in nz.

Great idea.  How about Wellington or Picton around New Years?

[nzvision]

i will be in gisborne for new years however its not all about me  haha

[dingleberry]

Yeah I'm keen too. Who wants to push me to it? Anyone...?

I've got 10 acres so theres room for tents and plenty of home grown cow in the freezer. ;D

[pinholenz]

Sounds like fun. I will be in Wellington over Christmas and New Years (with the wife and without a bike) Would love to meet up.

POD, I have just put your stainless exhaust on the bike. Sounds GREAT. Who made it? Quality job, but the only identifying marks are the intials LP near one of the mount brackets.

[The Prophet of Doom]

@ pinholenz  I don't know who made it.  I got it off Treedragon - I was most impressed with the quality -  I couldn't understand why they didn't make a stainless collector as well.  I just wanted something a bit more racey.

@ oldstuff - if you stop playing with all those other horrid bikes you'd get yours mobile by Christmas easily

[QBS]

Didn't Treedragon do a real nice custom stainless system?

[pinholenz]

He did an outstanding bit of plumbing. It can be viewed here:

http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=14321.0

[tig5]

+1 vote for Wellington, maybe all you ROVers can get my bike going ;)

What was the prob in the end NZvision? You said retard wiring which sounds like something I'm capable of. I have a few R/Rs in the post, any tips?

[nzvision]

i put the wrong wires in the wrong place apperantly.   i ended up taking it to boyles kawasaki on adelaide road.   good guys in there.    i also noticed on trademe a rr brand new for 129.

hows that digital dash going?  im looking at doing mine soon. (ie after xmas haha)

[dingleberry]

Pinholenz, surely the LP on your exhaust must stand for "Loud Pipe"  :laugh:

[tig5]

I bought 2 R/Rs off aliexpress, lost them in the mail, ordered 2 more, tracked down the original 2, so I'm expecting 4 any day now. I'll keep a couple and try and flog the rest on trademe.

I experienced some initial problems with the digital gauge. Firstly, I couldn't figure out how to power the thing on. It came with no instructions and the ones that were emailed to me had very distinct Chinese overtones. However that turned out to be an easy fix.

Secondly it would fog heaps. Like all the time. I took the lense off and tried sealing it with gasket goo. That was before I realized that moisture was coming in from the back where the wires come out. I then decided to try some toothpaste on the lense, the old diver's trick. Before I put the plate back on I accidentally dribbled some gasket goo onto the tacho face plate, the plastic illuminated piece that has the rev numbers printed on it. When I wiped the goo off it took some of the print with it, which basically allows more of the backlight illumination to shine through. Kinda annoying. Regardless, the toothpaste trick seemed to work.

My final problem is the bouncy tach needle. It likes to jump all over the place. I tried throwing a few resistors in line but that didn't seem to help much. I've heard that low voltage can have an effect on tach readings, and low voltage is definitely a problem I've been having. I'm hoping when I get my new R/R in place it might start to work properly. As far as I can tell, there's no reason it shouldn't unless it's faulty or I've cooked it.

Everything else seems to work nicely. It has a fuel gauge which turns into a temp gauge at the press of a button. The temp gauge seems to work although I don't know where my danger zones are yet. There are a few wires for things like the high beam lamp that I didn't bother connecting.

The magnet that came for the speedo sensor didn't fit on the disc. I cant' remember if it was too big or small, but I lost it anyway. I found a little pack of magnets at Bunnings Warehouse and jammed one in one of the rotor holes. I was going to attach it properly but havent got around to it yet. It seems pretty happy for now. I also needed to make a small bracket for the speedo pickup sensor. I just grabbed a thin metal bracket from Bunnings and drilled some holes in it. Worked fine.

The guy I bought the unit off is called "allforcustomer" on ebay. He is actually really good. Messages are replied to promptly and although his English kinda sucks he really does try to help out. I'm just about to send him a photo of the damaged part so he can see if he has a spare.

There seems to be quite a few units on ebay, all quite similar and most about the same price. If I can get the tach working properly I'd definitely recommend spending $50 on one.

When I have some spare time I'll try and get photos up for you guys. I also needed to make a mounting bracket for the unit itself. Once again it cost me $5 and 5 minutes of my time. I have no garage and limited tools where I am at the mo, so that's pretty much my style  :laugh:

I was just rereading this and had an idea. Maybe one of my spare lamps could function as a fan light? That would be kinda cool.