another found Vision

[allstateguy]

found this on PHX CL, it was sold, then popped up about a month later with no more miles on it. I think I know why now.
It's an 82 with close to 12k miles. When it warms up, it goes from having a slow return to idle, to having a 3500 rpm idle. Hard to ride that way. From the lurking I've done here, I suspected the YICS, so I took it off and blocked the intake hoses.
So now it starts and runs, but meh. Idle floats around and WOW I was not prepared for how big a BOG it can throw at you. I can drive around that, free of traffic, but I'm trying to make it right because the motor sounds and runs so good I want to see what it is really like.
The tank is fortunately pretty darn clean inside.
The tires were so dry rotted they may have been original (BS Spitfires) when the installer took them off they made cracking crumbling sounds as they came off the rims. Replaced with Shinko 712s that I've had great luck with on my Sportster.
Everything pretty much works. I scored an 83 rear shock and carb off eBay so those are going on. Seems as though parts have pretty much dried up and blown away, I hope I didn't get into this endeavor just as the door of possibility has closed behind me.
So, thanks for any comments or remarks or ideas you all may have about me getting a strong joyrider out of this new project.
John Pfingstag
allstateguy (no, not insurance, Sears motorcycles)

[Re-Vision]

It sounds to me as though you need to sync the carbs. It's not that hard and there is plenty of instructions on what needs to be done. I'm not real knowledgeable on carbs and I hope someone will correct me if necessary. Glad you are not associated with those insurance crooks. Your bike's picture looks as if has good potential and I know everyone will help you get the most out of your purchase.      BDC

[Rikugun]

Welcome to the forum John and thanks for posting a pic of your new addition. It looks very complete and stock so not a bad starting point. That '83 shock will help immensely and a new set of fork springs with fresh oil will balance things out nicely.

More often than not Vision drivability issues are carb related. A carb sync will help for sure but you may still have vacuum leaks and dirty passages are almost guaranteed. Another big contributor to the bog is an old stiff accell diaphragm.  I'd also recommend checking valve lash and compression or leak down test to make sure you don't waste time trying to tune away top end woes.

The '83 carbs you bought will probably need to be gone through. Also, there is an extra fuel line (return)that may need to be dealt with that is unique to the '83. Someone with that experience may want to jump in.

What kind of Allstate do you have - a Twingle perhaps? Have any pics to post?

[allstateguy]

Thanks for the greeting and tips.
I've had most of the different models Sears Roebuck sold, in both the Allstate and Sears brands. I'll attach a couple of pix of one I've built that have since gone down the road (along with the other 75 or so bikes I've owned since 1966)

and one important thing: I've spent many hours searching the internet and coming up empty for items that I consider critical to making the Vision run right. Carb gaskets and O-rings are an issue, and the 28899 tool to push the buckets down to remove the pucks - any ideas there?

[dingleberry]

Welcome to the forum Allstate guy. I am wondering is that top pic a Gilera? I have a Montgomery Wards Benelli engine and the bikes look quite similar. Good luck with your Vision BTW.

[allstateguy]

top one is a 1966 Sears 106SS, modified to look like a baby café racer. Since Gilera in Italy built them for Sears, it wasn't a stretch to slap a Gilera decal on the tank. The seat is a fibreglas piece.

middle one is a completely stock 1966 Sears SR175, built by Puch. It is one of the twingle twins

the bottom is a 1966 Sears SR250, turned into a Puch (all it takes is the Puch tank side panels) I also attached a Globe (Steib knockoff built in India) sidecar to it. There was a 75lb lead plate under the seat to make left hand turns less dramatic. Surprisingly, the 250 twingle, rated at 16.5hp would pull the rig down the road at 60mph plus. Uphill, a bit less.

[Kenny]

 Welcome John,
    If I was you I wouldn't worry about setting the valves if your bike has only 12,000 miles , however you can purchase a tool from Sirus Cons. in Ontario Canada if need be. I believe someone (Lucky) had plans to make one from a wrench on his site.
  I put 83 carbs on my 82 with the Hannigan Fairing and I had to modify the rear upper engine mount to get them to fit, I also used a 83 tank which took care of the extra fuel line issue-but you could " T " the line to make it work.
  Have fun.
   Cheers :) Ken S.   

[fret not]

A word of caution re the '83 carbs; they have rather fragile floats and those floats are basically unobtanium.  So be very careful and don't break them.

[Tiger]

Complete carb kits are available from Sirius Sonic in Cambridge Ontario, Canada.

If you go with '83 carb be aware, parts are harder to find!!! '82 carbs work fine when cleaned and synced properly. You will have to modify or change the top rear engine bracket to accommodate '83 carbs.

Tiger.

[Rikugun]

Nice to see you stop by Tiger!

Those are great pics of the Allstates. Very nice examples of several types and styles. The side car rig is very cool but then again the café racer is too.  Of course I have a soft spot for clean bone stock examples too so there's that...  :)

Just checking the valve lash is difficult enough but actually having to exchange a shim or two is worse. With a gasket, cam end plugs, the tool and possible shim exchange fees the process is pricey as well. For these reasons some elect not to bother. For the record I swapped a couple of shims by 12,000 miles but not all engines will require it. Here's another source for the $him tool if S.C.I. is out of stock:
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/VALVE_SHIM_TOOL_YAMAHA_XZ550__P11151C843.cfm

One just sold on E-bay for nearly $70 http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-XZ550-VISION-VALVE-SHIM-TOOL-1982-1983-/220951579469

[fret not]

Fortunately the cam cover gaskets are reusable many times, until they fail.  It is a very good idea to at least check the valve clearances, and you don't need the tool unless you are removing a shim.  Also you CAN remove the cams to to gain access to changing the shims, but one would need a shop manual to guide timing the cams upon reassembly.  That is if you are not fluent with the process.  If you already know what marks need to agree then you probably don't need the manual for this.

[The Prophet of Doom]

I've done both methods, and really there's not that much difference between them.  The timing makes the cam removal method harder, but the fiddly shims can be a pain in the arse when using the tool, especially on the chain side.

A newly shimmed engine makes it all worthwhile though - it can make a huge difference

[pullshocks]

Looks like you got a viable XZ550.  No doubt you need to clean and synch carbs, and check for air leaks, as the others have said.  But......."many carburetor problems are cured by a good hot spark."

My own slow return to idle issue went away when I swapped in a good regulator/rectifier.  With a weak spark, the engine can be made to idle with extreme adjustment of the throttle adjust screw.  But with that extreme adjustment you get idle mixture problems that manifest as slow return to idle.   When you get a good spark going,  that extreme throttle adjust stetting translates to a very high idle speed.  I hope that makes sense.  I posted about this issue last spring.

Having sold my Vision I no longer need my valve bucket tool.  I will post it in the for sale section soon.