Just got XZ 550

[Slav91]

I got it started, dissasemble the carbs , the front cyl carburator didn't have good level. Now it started little easyer and its working, but as soon it hits less then 1100 rpm it dies. I need to hold throtle and choke on. Also I'm hearing some knock noises coming from the front cylinder, and sometimes from starter when I'm starting the engine, it sounds like grinding a gear.

Here is the video of working engine, nevermind the smoke coming from the exaust pipe, one screw isn't put good in place. I think that you can hear the knocking also.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HAlB4pkOaI&feature=youtu.be

[QBS]

At 11k rpm you might be hitting the rev limiter.  The Red Line is 10k rpm.  Have you reattached the starter clutch to the rotor/flywheel?

[fret not]

That knocking sounds like it might be the starter clutch getting loose.  I would look into it before trying to run the motor any more because the damage it can cause is more than the bike is worth.  Just remember that a little bit of prevention is worth a whole lot of 'cure'.

[Slav91]

@QBS I have putted 1100 rpm not 11000 rpm :D


Now I found a post on this forum which describes the problems what I have, now my valves are out of spec not much but they are and I didn't do the adjustmens because I don't have shims but that will come also with time.  :D

1. At idle there is a knocking sound from the engine. Sounds scary to me, but I'm not used to motorcycle-engines, maybe that is a normal sound. 6/8 valves were out of spec, but I have adjusted all of them now (and yes, it's no problem doing that without the special tool, just loosen the camchain and lift the cams as much as possible).
2. The starter seems to have problems engaging. Maybe two of three times when I push the starter-button the starter sounds like if it misses the gears, not a nice sound, I would say it eats gears... Seems completely random wether it engages correct or not.

And Lucky replied to him

That is the starter clutch being loose due to the bolts backing out, QBS is right, the fix is on my site.  the only thing i couldn't tell is weather or not the banging went away over 2500rpm or so.  if not, that indicates the balancer nuts may be loose as well, often both problems are present. neither fix is particuarly expensive to do.
--Lucky

So I gues I need fixing it before it goes horribly wrong. The balance nuts and starter clutch are all under stator cover?  ???
I want to check everything that I can while the stator cover is off the bike.

[QBS]

I misread your 1100 rpm comment.  Sorry.  Yes, the starter clutch and balance shaft nut are under the stator cover.  While you have the cover off, visually inspect the stator for being charred/burnt.  More importantly, with the stator coil mounted on the stator cover, check for electrical continuety between each stator coil output wire and the stator cover, and please report your findings heare.

[Slav91]

The stator is repaired couple months ago.  ;D But I will check it just to be sure. Is there any tutorial about how to dissasemble it?

EDIT: I found it, with pictures on this thread.

http://ridersofvision.net/rovforum/index.php?topic=6525.0

And there is even on youtube :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycTVbV0y7HY

[QBS]

No need to disassemble the stator from the stator cover to do this test.

[Slav91]

Yes but for thw starting clutch and balance nut i must. :D

EDIT: I have dissasembled the stator side and by the look of it one screw got unscrewed. I'm happy because thats probably that problem which made that knocking noise. I gotta get rotor puller so I can get off the rotor and fix that because I don't have a such small rotor. Three new screws and thread locker glue.  ;D

[Rikugun]

And there is even on youtube :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycTVbV0y7HY

That's a relatively new video - new member or member lurker?  It's a 3 part vid that's helpful but is a little light on details to be a tutorial. The real crime is that it's shot in portrait.

[Slav91]

I got home from work at 12:30 PM and got the rotor puller from my work place. And I get rotor off with not much of a hassle.
Well I found out that my midle name isn't Lucky hahahahahah  :D Its not only one screw, but all three of them are cut off, and by the look of them they have been in that stage quite a while, probably at the previous owner.
Now even some threads in rotor are damage.  The most interesting part is starter clutch, should  I get a new one? It works fine in one direction and jams in another(which is suppose to do) but the thin metal plate is hardly damage.

[fret not]

Check out the starter clutch for any possible cracks.  That is a very hard piece of metal, and it is a bit brittle, so it is very important that there are NO cracks developing.  The sheet metal cover looks rather "used".  If there is a way you can position it so it helps retain the rollers and can still be held firmly in place it should be OK to use again.  but if that is not feasible I would look for another sheet metal cover.  It would have to be a used part as it is not available as a separate part.   It is part of the starter clutch assembly.

By the way, it is the same starter clutch used in several other Yamaha motorcycles, for example the V-Max, and the 1200cc Venture.

[Slav91]

What about new? I look there are like 75 euros, and there are 35$ but made in Taiwan. I don't know where the first one is made, maybe in Eastern Europe.

[Rikugun]

As you found, there are affordable new units available now. I'd go with one of them.

[QBS]

The original one was probably OEM Yamaha from Japan.  The OEM part quality is not the problem. The factory procedure for attaching the clutch to the rotor is at fault.  Yamaha didn't understand/appreciate the very short and abrupt sharp/hard rpm accelerations the crankshaft experiences at low/idle engine speeds.  This is due to the Visions V twin design.  Basically the clutch is being jerked back and forth on the surface of the rotor.  That is the source of of the knocking noise at idle  The proof is that above 2500 rpm the failed attacement noise goes away because the crankshaft is rotating fast enough that the loosened clutch doesn't have time to move back and forth, because the combustion shocks are happening too fast.

I think, that when Yamaha designed their V assembly procedure for the rotor and clutch, they used 4 cylinder thinking and never considered the difference in the firing dynamics of a high compression V twin.

If they had designed in some type self locking mating surface system between the clutch housing and the surface of the rotor (instead of mating two flat surfaces) the problem wouldn't have existed.  Even so, just peening the ends of the attachment screws would have avoided the problem.  But would have probably have taken a little more time.  A sad and unacceptable situation.

[Slav91]

I was just thinking today. If I disasemble the sheet metal cover from clutch, grind all that damage small parts off thats are damage from the clutch screews so they dont fall of in oil. And clean good from oil the clutch and sheet metal cover then put heat resistance silicone or maybe even better liquid metal in places between clutch sheet metal so it holds it together so it doesn move and also press back the edges it should work. Its a little redneck fix but it should work. :D I just need to check the clutch detaily. I have only tested it with hand and it always brake in one side so it should be good.

[QBS]

That is one of the worst possible places to put silicon sealant OR liquid metal.  DO NOT do that.  If you put that stuff inside your engine, it will not end well for you.

[Slav91]

I know what you mean but it would be between sheet metal and clutch. Not on open.

[QBS]

Don't do it.

[Slav91]

Any recomendations for starter clutch? They are various prices, but I think that some of them have pump the price of starter clutch and its the same one cheaper that is made in China.  :-X

[QBS]

Is your starter clutch housing/body cracked?